[KR...]

Quote:

So, are you buying one?

I still got to figure out where to get all the tweaks so that it would work with my system. The way he had it, he just brought the cheapest adapters that he could find.

But, my DVD player sound quite good on it's own, enough that I could live without the ART.

So I'm not sure if I'm going to get it or not, just yet.

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by RickG Where is a good place to order the Art DI/O?

Fullcompass.com seems to be the place. I got one for $122 +shipping, but I've seen posts indicating that the price is now $111. Either is absurdly low. Unless they've recently added it, the DI/O does not appear on their site...you have to call them.

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by KR... I still got to figure out where to get all the tweaks so that it would work with my system.

Check the DIY forum. There's a link to a page put together by cfraser at audioasylum that's got most of the tweaks.

 

[RickG]

Thanks Hirsch.

 

[Dan H]

The Art needs a specal cable ($75.00) to work best. Also has problems locking onto signal at times. Others have said the sound changes from unit to unit. A used MSB Link would be a better deal IMO.

 

[KR...]

It seems like it's way too much work to get it to work right.

 

[Hirsch]

Quote:

Originally posted by Dan H The Art needs a specal cable ($75.00) to work best.

The ART does not require a special cable, although the stock unit is sensitive to the digital interconnect used. The analog output of the ART is 7v rather than the standard 2v. However, the volume control of your headphone amp or preamp will, in most cases, attenuate the hot signal before it reaches the active circuitry of your component. If there is active circuitry before the volume control in your unit, you may need to put use an inline attenuator. Boldercables builds one into their $74 cable, but you can buy one from headroom for $35 and use any analog cable you want. There are also cheaper inline attenuators, but the one I tried degraded the audio signal, while the Harrison Labs one from Headroom appears almost invisible. Finally, if you search audioasylum.com, there are instructions posted by Jon Risch for building your own attenuator, which is a matter of soldering in two resistors. All that being said, none of my units require the attenuation. (Creek, X-Can, Grado headphone amps, Adcom and Electrocompaniet preamps).

 

[chych]

The locking and unlocking issue is more of an issue with the master clock rrather than the cable. Maybe its because I do not have a really good cable yet, but from several cables I have tried (including bare wire) I could not tell a difference in sound

Besides, it isn't much of an issue, the locking thing, just cycle the mode and it will relock.

You can also solder the resistors inside the ART, as well as upgrade the jacks to RCA and have it more "normal" for non-pro gear. Looks easy to me, I'm probably going to upgrade the jacks soon...

 

[Tim D]

Heh...I have zero locking issues with Denon. Ummm I can turn the player and the D/IO on second and press play and it works. I can have the D/IO on, than turn on the CDP, and press play and it works. Or I can leave them BOTH on, press play, and it works(most likely this scenario anyways).

Or I can shut them both of...try to turn them on at the same time...and it'll probably work, but I'll check on the same time scenario....nah I'm too lazy. With that in mind...yah even lazy people can enjoy the D/IO. Well at least my system doesn't complain.

Digital cable...only issue was knowing how to get it into ext sync mode in the beginning as I'm not sure if it was the default mode. After that it is easy.

Removing the tube was easy...unscrewing four screws pretty easy, etc. Putting the tube back in...easy.

I'd say replacing op-amps would be on the harder side of things...but you don't NEED to do it. Course some peoples "needs" are different.

Some people NEED mods to their SACD players, and others probably don't.

 

[dngl]

Vert said the harrison labs attenuators are crap.

Anyway, a five disc carousel pioneer dvd refurbed = $200 at ubid, dig cable = $50, DI/O = $130 at full compass. Then you're left with the task of building attenuating cables and you're paying as much as a C333ES.

DanWright does not think the ART DI/O is a giant killer.

 

[chych]

Well Jon...

Neither the $50 digital cable nor the attenuating cables are needed for a transport-di/o combo (adapters for rca->male are cheap)... and a carousel player isn't needed either, unless you really want a carousel... With that in mind, a lot prefer the DI/O to the 333ES, or even the 9000ES...

And Dan Wright's opinion basically is rare, because 90% of people with di/o and other dac experience think that the DI/O is a giant killer.

 

[MacDEF]

Quote:

And Dan Wright's opinion basically is rare, because 90% of people with di/o and other dac experience think that the DI/O is a giant killer.

The power of positive thinking?

j/k

 

[Tim D]

Ahhh, the power of getting the words straight from the source

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/dig...ges/28397.html

Giant killer? Thats a silly term anyways since there can also be a higher priced product of great price/performance. However it should be noted that Dan W is comparing his decked out modded players to the D/IO.

He might not think its a Giant Killer...but I don't think Dan considers his players to be giant killers without his mods.

 

[KR...]

Quote:

Hi guys, sorry if I ruffled some feathers and raised some eyebrows. I DID say that the Art DI/O is a very good unit and amazing for the price. I compared in my system, the DI/O to a fully modified 333ES, a fully modified 9000ES and a fully modified P-3A with upgraded PS. I did some basic mods to the DI/O and was using the same PS as I was using with the P-3A. I personally found the DI/O to lack the richness and fullness of sound of the other products that I compared it to. I fully admit that I am not immune to personal bias. I did not do hours and hours of listening, but I ran through recordings that I am familiar with and tried to evaluate the product against my other references. I am not sure if I have updated My System on The Asylum, but here is what I am using in my reference system: Atma-Sphere M60-MKII monoblocks w/current updates. DACT CT-2 Passive Attenuator. Jena Labs Interconnects and digital cable. Greybeard KB/2/2 2-Way Speakers. Digital Front End: Perpetual Tech. P-3A, Sony 9000ES In terms of my financial interest, if I thought the DI/O was FAR superior to the rest, I wouldn't have said a word about it. In fact, I have purposely stayed out of the Art DI/O fray until now as I wanted to make some honest comparisons and see how the modified unit sounds. The bottom line is this - It IS a great sounding unit. You absolutely cannot beat it for the price, period. I would also not be surprised if the DI/O didn't sound better than the stock 333ES which I thought sounded very flat and two-dimensional. I won't comment further in this respect as I want to expect The Asylum's rules. This hobby is VERY subjective and we all do have our personal preferences. My intention for placing the ad was not to squash interest in the DI/O. In fact, I was looking at it as a business opportunity. Perhaps I worded things a bit poorly. If I have confused or troubled those who read the ad, I sincerely apologize. I try to be honest in my assessment of things and perhaps it did more harm than good in this case. Having said all of this, I still believe that it is a great product and can be used in a great sounding system for very little cash outlay. Combined with a similarly priced transport (or better obviously), it would EASILY beat MANY CD players priced at $1,000 or more. I am speaking of commercially available, stock equipment in this case. Enough said, I will step down from my soap box now. BTW, if the moderators feel that this post was inappropriate, please feel free to delete it. I was simply trying to explain my comments further. Sincerely, Dan W.

Then...

Quote:

I am really not interested in taking part in a heated debate. This response is all that I will contribute on the subject. I stated that the 333ES was better than the DI/O. I should have been more specific and state that the comparison was done with a modified 333ES. Perhaps I should have been more clear hear. The Link DAC is a good product that has since been bettered by the DI/O. You are misundertanding me to say that a product is "crappy" or "poor" because I prefer another product over it. I believe that some of you are taking my comments personally and that is unfortunate. I simply stated my impressions of the unit and tried to state fairly how it compared to the References in my own system. Please simply accept my opinions for just what they are...opinions. I appreciate your response and have tried to respond directly to your comments. I honestly have nothing more to add on the subject of the DI/O and will not be responding to any further discussion on the subject. Thanks, Dan W.