[amb]

Quote:

Yeah, the voltage holds stead at ~3.3V on pin 12. Since I'm sure I've got the right part, then it's damaged as you say. I wonder if it'd do anything if I swapped U4D and U9D? 

U4D and U9D are not the same part and have opposite behaviors.  U4D should be MCP100 whereas U9D should be MCP101.  Look carefully at what's populated on your board at both locations.

 

[BobSaysHi]

Quote:

You can skip the switch, but it'll be the equivalent as having the switch in the "USB" position unless you add a wire to shunt two of the switch pads (you can figure out which ones by looking at the schematic and mapping the circuit to the PCB layout).  Also, you lose the bicolor LED lock/nolock indication.

Hi, this quote was from a while ago, however I am still curious.
 
If I, being a novice, shunt the wrong wires, is it possible to damage the DAC? I am looking at the schematic and figured out that if nothing is jumped, then USB is selected. However the pdf for the switch looks like the two that should connect for toslink are the two closest to the front. The middle is open, so it's either the closest to the front or the back. I think it's the two in front.
 
To my untrained eyes, it looks like the switch changes the rxp1 or rxp2. That's the best I could do. Am I right?
 
I am taking an electronic engineering course next year, because all this DIY stuff is really interesting.

 

[Ntropic]

Quote:

Quote:

Yeah, the voltage holds stead at ~3.3V on pin 12. Since I'm sure I've got the right part, then it's damaged as you say. I wonder if it'd do anything if I swapped U4D and U9D? 

U4D and U9D are not the same part and have opposite behaviors.  U4D should be MCP100 whereas U9D should be MCP101.  Look carefully at what's populated on your board at both locations.

Looks like I done goofed. My BOM says both MCP100 and 101, but the order list only has two MCP100s. Well, bugger.
 
CURSE YOU, FAIRLY SIMILAR PART NAMES

 

[K3cT]

Did you happen to order them from Mouser, Ntropic? They made the same mistake to my order as well. 

 

[Ntropic]

Yes, from Mouser, but I was talking about my BOM sheet. I had copied over U9D as U4D to the order form because I thought they were the same. Woops.
 

 

[Mullet]

Anyone happen to have a y1 lite panel schematic that they made up for Front Panel Express? I'm considering doing the y1 lite because I don't really need the full configurations' features.
 
TIA,
Mullet

 

[Mullet]

Nevermind. I figured out how to make the panels using Front Panel Express' software and AMB.org's panel measurements. In the end, I decided to go with the full config because cost wise it comes out to be the approximately the same to build the whole enchilada when having to have the panels custom made. It was something like $48.62 plus shipping and taxes to have the y1 lite panels made. Hope this helps someone else and feel free to PM me if you need the Front Panel Express y1 lite project files for both front and back panel.

 

[Mher6]

Just started my y1 build.
 
I just soldered the U2D on to the pcb and accidently filled in the three tiny holes to the right of U2D (right above R5D).  The three small holes don't seem to connect to anything, but I just wanted to make sure that this was "ok" and that it isn't necessary to remove the solder filling those three holes.  Thanks!!

 

[BobSaysHi]

^ you should be fine

 

[Mher6]

Is there a reason the holes exist in the first place?

 

[Nebby]

To provide a pathway to the other side of the board
 
Quote:

Is there a reason the holes exist in the first place?

 

[amb]

Quote:

Just started my y1 build.
 
I just soldered the U2D on to the pcb and accidently filled in the three tiny holes to the right of U2D (right above R5D).  The three small holes don't seem to connect to anything, but I just wanted to make sure that this was "ok" and that it isn't necessary to remove the solder filling those three holes.  Thanks!!

Those holes are called "vias".  They are plated through and connect to traces on the other side of the board.  No harm done when you fill them with solder.

 

[headfisupporter]

i'm not too sure but you can check out this new site by Farnell http://my.element14.com. They also provide technical support.

 

[herro]

Does anyone have a full .txt or excel sheet for a full or full++ build ? thanks

 

[herro]

At first I couldn't copy and paste everything in one column, but figured out how. You can import this list into mouser. It includes ALL parts listed on the AMB BoM, therefore you will have to manually remove parts you don't need.
 
Here it is:
 
γ1 (gamma-1) DAC: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/161376/y1_bom.txt
 
Even for a full build there is still some parts you will need to remove (if you want) such as the headers.