[amb]

Traditionally I had only offered black panels (e.g., γ1 full and Mini³). I had pre-ordered some sets to meet an initial demand and they are all black. In the future, I may consider other colors on a custom-order basis. Note that on light colored panels (i.e., silver or gold) the engraved markings should have black infill to make them legible, which will cost extra.

 

[sergery]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yes, I will offer panel sets for the γ2 + γ1 full++ configuration in black only. Their ETA is about 2 weeks from now.

This is most excellent - on the ball as ever AMB! I will plan to get some then, thanks!!

-Serge

 

[Beefy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Traditionally I had only offered black panels (e.g., γ1 full and Mini³). I had pre-ordered some sets to meet an initial demand and they are all black. In the future, I may consider other colors on a custom-order basis. Note that on light colored panels (i.e., silver or gold) the engraved markings should have black infill to make them legible, which will cost extra.

Any chance you can make some Front Panel Designer or CAD files available such that people can customise the panels for themselves?

For example, I would very much like a silver set with black engraving infill, no digital outs, no filter switches; I doubt I could make such a thing from scratch, but could probably modify an existing set to get exactly what I want fairly easily......

 

[jnewman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Any chance you can make some Front Panel Designer or CAD files available such that people can customise the panels for themselves? For example, I would very much like a silver set with black engraving infill, no digital outs, no filter switches; I doubt I could make such a thing from scratch, but could probably modify an existing set to get exactly what I want fairly easily......

AMB has all the hole sizes and positions and whatnot posted on his website - front panel designer is really pretty easy, why not give it a try?

(i.e., click type of hole you want, press "m" for manual coordinate entry, enter coordinates from AMB's list, enter hole size, done)

 

[Beefy]

Why re-invent the wheel?

I'm actually familiar with Front Panel Designer, and could do most of it...... but I would like to keep the logos, but I suspect that they are CAD generated.

 

[jnewman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Why re-invent the wheel? I'm actually familiar with Front Panel Designer, and could do most of it...... but I would like to keep the logos, but I suspect that they are CAD generated.

The only thing I see that is not normal text is the Y1 logo, both characters of which look like standard FPD fonts (they have a Greek font and multi-stroke outline fonts).

I am in process of doing one for my new Gamma 2 and the whole thing is only going to take an hour or so (maybe two).

 

[amb]

jnewman, the logo is made from standard built-in fonts.

Beefy, what you ask is custom, so you should DIY. Also, I treat the panel CAD files the same way as I do the PCB CAD files -- as long as I am offering the end product for sale, I won't release them. But the dimensional drawing (much like the circuit schematic diagram) will be open and documented on the website.

 

[Beefy]

Understandable. No harm in asking!

 

[grenert]

Since there are on-board regulators, could a 6V regulated supply work with the gamma-1?

 

[MisterX]

http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps2115a.pdf

Quote:

Wide Operating Voltage Range . . . .2.8 V to 5.5 V

(the max recommended input voltage for U1D is 5.5 volts)

 

[R4ABigman]

I know this might've been asked before, but I've been struggling to find any information via the power of the search tool.

I'm trying to integrate an M3, O11 and Y1 in the same enclosure -- as an all-in-one digital headphones amplifier solution. I've come a little unstuck when it comes to powering the Y11, though.

My most recently thought is to use a BUF634, with V+ being the 24V (VCC), V- being the 0V (VEE) and I/P being 12V (VGND or IG from M3). The idea was borrowed from the Alien DAC. This, in conjunction with an LM78M05 should give me the +5VDC and 0VDC I require for the y1, but keeping the VGND correctly referenced throughout.

Apologies for the quality of my diagram, but this is what I mean:

Will this work?
Is this the best solution?
Is 250mA (which is all I'd expect to be able to get) going to be enough for the y1?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Hob Hayward]

So I'm having a weird problem now.. after my gamma1 working properly for quite some time, the red light has stopped coming on.. ever. When I left for my lab today it was sitting there glowing red, I get back and the light refuses to come on. It still outputs fine using the usb and spdif inputs, and will glow green if its on the right setting and a signal is present.

I looked over the board to see if anything could have gone wrong, but I don't see anything.. Any ideas?

 

[m1abrams]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hob Hayward /img/forum/go_quote.gif So I'm having a weird problem now.. after my gamma1 working properly for quite some time, the red light has stopped coming on.. ever. When I left for my lab today it was sitting there glowing red, I get back and the light refuses to come on. It still outputs fine using the usb and spdif inputs, and will glow green if its on the right setting and a signal is present. I looked over the board to see if anything could have gone wrong, but I don't see anything.. Any ideas?

reflow the solder points on the switch SW1D pin4 LEDR, and ALL pins on Q2D. If that does not solve it I suppose maybe Q2D has failed. Maybe someone with more knowledge can assist too. That is my first guess as to where to look for the problem.

 

[Hob Hayward]

Hmm I reflowed Q2D and all switch joints, to no avail. Maybe Q2D is actually bad?

I've gone over the board a couple times now and I don't see any dry or bad joints.

 

[amb]

Try reflowing all pins of U8D, and U2D pins 14 and 15.