[MisterX]

Set it as the default playback device.
 
 

 

[Kibble Fat]

I figured it out and forgot to edit my post.  I just had to close and open iTunes again.  It was already open when I changed the setting but the issue could have had something to do with all of my music being on an external.  Anyways, the Gamma2 sounds fantastic!  I'm kind of curious how far the Gamma1 would have taken me, but not that curious lol.
 
I would highly recommend the red anodized enclosure.  It looks great with the gold RCA/Coax jacks
 
Thanks again MisterX & AMB!  My next project is a pair of Zaph Audio SR71 speakers.

 

[cobaltmute]

delete and learn to read next page before posting...

 

[Kibble Fat]

Quote:

delete and learn to read next page before posting...

retort withdrawn

 

[ShinyFalcon]

I don't think he directed that towards you; he forgot to read the last page before replying.

 

[cobaltmute]

ShinyFalcon is correct.  I responded to something and then saw the answer was already there.

 

[rontruong]

Hey guys! I'm new here and i finally finished my first DIY project... the gamma 1!...
 
Right now it's pretty ghetto on the faceplates, but I plan to wait for school to start again so I can use the laser machine @ my engineering building.
 


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
enjoy! looking forward to more DIY stuff in the future

 

[FishHead]

Hi Gang,
 
Well I just finished the y1 full++ and the results are as follows.  
 
Wall wort 5.19 V  .6 A
 
DAC
jp2D pin1 to ground= null
jp2D pin2 to ground= null
jp2D pin3 to ground= null
3.3V test to ground= null
4.5V test to ground= null
 
USB
5 V  test to ground= null x 2
3.3V test to ground= null
Led is not populated as y2 build will immediately follow.
 
J2U pin 1&2 shorted
USB cable results:
  "USB Audio Dac", "USB Composite Device", "Human Interface Device" all are shown.
 
Device manager records it as : usb\vid_08BB&PID_2707\....
 
Voltages on USB side
 
5 V #1 = 5.057
      #2 = 5.045
3.3V    = 3.293
 
Is there anything else to test before the y2 build?  I did put power to the DAC side and the toggle switch lights up and I get voltage at the 4.5 but not at the 3.3.   I do not have a SPDIF cable nor a coax cable.
 
Thanks
 

 

[MisterX]

How do you plan on testing the functionality of the USB to S/PDIF outputs when you don't have the required (optical and coax) cables?
 
Anyhow...
Figure out why there is no 3.3 volt reading on the Y1 DAC board then solder the J1, J2, J3, J4 and J5 connectors onto the Y2 board, plug it in to the Y1 and see if it works.

 

[FishHead]

Well I looked at the schematic and as an accountant it tells me squat.   But knowing how much you guys like to recommend re-flowing the SMDs.  I checked the voltage at U5D Pin 1.  Well I had to figure out which was pin one by finding the ground at pin 2.  I had voltage on pin 3 and guessed that was some kind of trigger cause V was the same on U6D pin 3.  I was getting no reading so re-flowed pin 1 and pin 5.  What do you know.  3.3 V at the test point.  
 
Just to be clear,  if I solder J1 through J5 on the y2 it will make the y1 work...... without any other chips on y2?
 
As for cables,  why get a cable if I don't have a source for it.  I built the full++ so I would not have to open it up ever again once I am done,  the time savings is so great of just building it out once you would be silly not to do it.
 
And my accounting hat will come off now.  

 

[MisterX]

 
Quote:

 Just to be clear,  if I solder J1 through J5 on the y2 it will make the y1 work...... without any other chips on y2?

 Yes.
 

 

[BobSaysHi]

Howdy,
 
I made a thread already, however I didn't realize there was a dedicated thread for the y1. I'll just post here.
 
I have picked out parts for my y1, which is just a toslink in, and I am going to hardwire the audio out to my minimax. The case is going to be one of those plastic containers you put leftovers in, however I am planning on buying a large case eventually.

 

1.) Since I am using a plastic container would I need to ground anything? Should I just man up and buy a case?

 

2.) I only want one input, is it possible to skip the "NKK G13JVCF bicolor illuminated toggle switch"? From what I understand that switch is used to toggle the inputs. Would I need to solder jumpers to my board to skip this switch?

 

3.) I've decided to build the σ24 and σ25 kits as well. I think all of the Molex input and output terminals have the wrong pictures in the Mouser Website. Is that correct? I can just skip these and solder directly to the board right?

 

4.) Can I just cut an existing power cord and use that for the input?

 

5.) I just noticed that there weren't any fuses installed. Can I add fuses?

 

6.) Why can't the "Pulse BV030-7151.0 1.5VA EI-30" be used on the both the y1 and y2?

 

Sorry about all the questions, but I am no electronics engineer. Any help would be appreciated. Also, if you can only answer a couple of these, then please share your knowledge.

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobSaysHi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
1.) Since I am using a plastic container would I need to ground anything? Should I just man up and buy a case?
 
2.) I only want one input, is it possible to skip the "NKK G13JVCF bicolor illuminated toggle switch"? From what I understand that switch is used to toggle the inputs. Would I need to solder jumpers to my board to skip this switch?

I suggest the default case, it just fits better. And add the switch and coax input (if not USB too).  You might only need optical now, but it's handy to have it when you're mixing and matching digital sources and amps.  if you're always trying to build the minimum for the immediate need, you'll find that you'd be wanting to add to it in the future, and multiple parts orders get more expensive.

3.) I've decided to build the σ24 and σ25 kits as well. I think all of the Molex input and output terminals have the wrong pictures in the Mouser Website. Is that correct? I can just skip these and solder directly to the board right?

Mouser often uses a generic picture of the series (but with the wrong number of pins or contacts).  As long as the part number is correct, then it's right.  Use the connectors, it will make removing and servicing easier in the future.
 
Quote:

4.) Can I just cut an existing power cord and use that for the input?

Are you always looking for shortcuts?  Or would you do things "right"?  "Right" in this case means using a standard IEC power cord, and using an IEM power entry module (preferably with built-in fuse, and perhaps a power switch).
 
Quote:

5.) I just noticed that there weren't any fuses installed. Can I add fuses?

A fuse is a must on the AC primary side.
 
Quote:

6.) Why can't the "Pulse BV030-7151.0 1.5VA EI-30" be used on the both the y1 and y2?

The VA rating is not high enough for both.
 

 

[BobSaysHi]

Ok, I clearly am out of my league on the σ25. I'll just buy a wallwart. However, I am notoriously bad at picking out wallwarts, could someone link me the one I need (preferably from Mouser)?
 
I think I'll buy the case for the y2, since I am planning to expand it next summer anyway. When I upgrade to the y2 I was planning on adding more inputs, but for right now I really don't want to spend 10 dollars on an input and switch I don't need. Can I skip the switch for now? I'll go ahead and add the Molex connectors if they are correct.
 
Oh, and I wasn't looking for shortcuts, I just didn't know is all.

 

[amb]

You can skip the switch, but it'll be the equivalent as having the switch in the "USB" position unless you add a wire to shunt two of the switch pads (you can figure out which ones by looking at the schematic and mapping the circuit to the PCB layout).  Also, you lose the bicolor LED lock/nolock indication.