[shrimants]

Heheh yes, thats where I got the info from . I read through the gamma 2 and gamma 1 overview pages. Previously I wasnt 100% committed to this project because I wasnt sure how much everythign would end up costing or if I would get the funding for it from my parents or have to pony up myself. I know the soldering iron I have is so worn out and useless that I'd need to replace it and get a proper station before trying anything. I still need to learn how to read the schematic and whatnot too. Its still in the planning stages but now I at least know that the resistors, caps, and semiconductors cost about 50 bucks total from mouser. I still have to go through the miscellaneous parts list and total those up, plus I gotta print out the schematic and diagrams for the drill plates and give them to my dad. My friend offered to do the drilling for me to get the face plates but he wanted me to create it in Sketchup or some other CAD software first, and I dont know anything about CAD so thats a bit difficult for me to do. I might give it a whirl just for craps and giggles.

 

[Mullet]

This is all you need with regards to the parts you *actually* need...
http://nihilex.com/sites/nihilex/files/gamma1-parts.html
 
Click on the version you're doing and then click on Mouser, Digikey, etc to get a list...
 
The above linked site saved me a ton of time when I did my Gamma 1.

 

[shrimants]

I wish you would have shown me this sooner. I am not entirely sure if this guy includes the components that were "optional" or not. I created an excel sheet that had every part with pricing next to it and figured it all out myself, and I got all the optional components too. It came out to about 130 bucks total. The misc. parts alone+board+enclosure (no plates) cost 65, the resistors cost 3.25, the caps cost 18 bucks and the semiconductors cost 35 or something. I am planning on building the gamma 2 after the gamma 1 is done. My dad is going to be funding both projects.

Right now i'm completely ready to place the mouser order, I just need to make sure I have a soldering station, one of those arm holding things, a microscope, liquid flux, etc all set up. I refuse to attempt this project with my 8 year old 10 dollar radioshack soldering iron that i learned to solder on. That thing is LONG past the end of its days. Sure, it heats up, but it would be more accurate to use a hair dryer or a toaster oven to solder the parts on

Incase you are interested in my spreadsheet (or, you know, get the sudden inexplicable urge to check my work) here is the sheet as it stands right now.


http://ompldr.org/vODR6ZQ

Note that I havent bothered going through the gamma 2 parts list just yet. I'll save that for when I am done with the Gamma 1+pics of my progress. All I did is take each section (resistors, caps, sc, misc) and copypasted the list into a column. then i removed the parts with an "N" next to them, kept everything that had an O because the notes pretty much all said "if you want to gamma 2 later, you need this", then wherever it said "AMB Audio Shop" I put the actual AMB description and denoted in bold what I had to purchase from amb vs mouser. Luckily every single part is available through mouser or AMB except that enclosure. The enclosure I can even buy locally though, although it will cost me 16 bucks vs the 10 USD msrp the company lists it for. Or I can order from the people I have listed for 14 bucks and they have good ratings.

Let me know if theres any questions or if I made some sort of horrific glaring error.

 

[Mullet]

Everything is correct with that web page. If you're doing Full ++ click on F and you'll get all the parts that you need. The few optional things like the JP1U and JP1D pin headers might not be needed. I believe you can use a snipped lead and solder that in to get the desired effect. Using the pin headers allows you to change the config a little bit easier. You can use a shunt from an old PATA HD instead of ordering one. I'd definitely get the power multiplexer. This allows you to use USB or DC power. Without it you can only do either or. Also if you're doing the Full ++ I don't think you need any of the pin headers or receptacles. You'd use an old computer ribbon cable instead. I did a Y1 Full so I needed the pin headers and receptacles to marry both the USB and DAC boards together.
 
On a side note, I snipped my 9 pin SIP header pins (the ones that come with the y1 board) a bit and now I don't get a great connection between boards. In fact I have to jiggle my optical connection a bit to get the right connection. It's kind of annoying and now I wish I didn't snip the header pins.

 

[shrimants]

tomorrow perhaps i'll look over that site and see if my stuff matches their stuff as far as the optional parts go. I need to do that anyways because like i said, if it had an O i put it in my list. Worst case scenario i'd have an extra part laying around, which is never a bad thing. The next step is to double check the list and make sure ive got what i need, then i'll see if I can borrow a soldering station from my dads work or from a friend. Affter that its a simple matter of making the list and ordering things.

 

[txlee]

Pls adv if gamma 1 can be played like a portable headphone amp., carried at our side to listen musics, just like mini3

 

[rjkdivin]

txlee,
The Gamma 1 can be used with headphones directly if the output coupling caps are substituted....you will find this discussion elsewhere in this thread. It requires changing the standard C24D and C25D to 470uF caps. However, this is not a self powered DAC. It requires an external power source from a USB source or from a wallwart depending upon how you configure it, and it does not have its own volume control so volume must be controlled from your source. Therefore, it cannot be used for a 'portable' headphone amp as it is designed. It is not like the Mini3.

 

[civilmonkey]

Hi All,
 
I just finished a y1, B configuration.  I used the kit from Glass Jar Audio.  I passed all the checks, the computer recognizes it no problem and it plays music.  The problem is the sound has a significant hum, is hollow sounds lacking mids and bass, as well sounds underwater at times (wah wah effect), or has a reverb effect.  I've checked the usual silly mistakes, jumpers are in the right place, flux has been cleaned, etc.  I'm fairly confident of my SMD soldering but could try re-flowing.  If I had to guess, the hum sounds 60hz ish.
 
Anybody run into this or have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

 

[Nebby]

Do you have clear detailed pictures of the board?

 

[civilmonkey]

Sat down to post... But.... The hum sounded suspiciously like a ground loop hum or such.  The DAC is connected to my DIY PIMETA.  The PIMETA is a metal case, and the output jack (headphone), is grounded to the case, however the input jack is not.  At the time I thought, while, I only have 2 jacks, and since they are different looking, it's a good way to tell the source/input apart.
 
While playing music using the DAC/PIMETA, if you touch the metal case, you can greatly affect the sound, even turn if off, just by touching the case.  Running my RE-0's directly through the DAC and it sounds like it's supposed it.  Second test, I touches the ground strip on the DAC to the top of the PIMETA with no music playing.  The hum immediately went away and it was silent.  Playing music now sounded great.
 
So that was the problem.  Thanks

 

[Nebby]

Glad you got it figured out!

 

[WesrFegT]

A while back I tried some tentative steps into (DIY) Audio equipment, which among other things resulted in a 95% finished gamma DAC,
And after some time I've decided to look into better audio again. Looking at the AMB website it was quite easy to source the missing parts I forgot the first time around .
But I have a question about the AC-DC adapter. Since I have difficulties finding one terminating at a 1.3 mm connection, I guess the way forward is to pick a 5V adaptor with mutiple output formats.
 
Found this one on the Farnell website and by the looks of it will fit the bill, but can´t seem to find the output types.
http://nl.farnell.com/ideal-power/25hk-aj-050a300-cp/psu-desktop-plug-in-15w-5v/dp/2112009?in_merch=New%20Products
 
It should be for western europe (the netherlands) so would be 230 V / 50 Hz
 
Pretty sure that´ll do the trick, but a confirmation would be nice (if it is indeed the right one).
Also would the quality of such a simple adaptor have an influence on the sound quality? Or would I'd be better off to save some money on it?
 
Thanks in advance

 

[amb]

Yes, that should work. Another solution is to buy a 1.3mm power plug and then replace the one on any 5VDC 300+mA regulated adapter.

 

[WesrFegT]

Thank you for your quick reply and suggestion.
For now I'll get myself a basic charger and down the road when the rest of my equipment is of some higher quality I'll swap it out for something a bit more sophisticated.

 

[fruitflavor]

just got my kit from glass jar audio w/o panels since i will probably upgrade to gamma 2 after a while.
I used to solder and do a lot of DYI things in elementary and high school and haven't done anything in over four years and thought this kit would be fun kit to get back into it.
My first impression after opening the kit and having never done surface mounting my reaction was : i'm in for a lot of trouble.