[nioh]

Can you clarify what you mean with option 1, when you say that the device runs warmer compared to option 2? Can you explain how much warmer and how it affects the performance of the XD05 Pro? It does seem like the more user friendly option, though. If I understand correctly, there's no modification required like option 1 - you just have to connect the Sparkos SS3602 op amps on top of the DIP8 risers like legos, and then plug the whole piece onto the board. This would make the op amp even taller than it already looks in photos. And I'm assuming there's enough overhead clearance to allow this

Option 2 seems to be the most efficient for the device, since you say that it runs cooler. However, it does seem like the riskier option since it requires modification with a wire cutter. I'm worried that I might not cut enough of the silver pins; it looks like you have to cut really close to the board, so there's very little left of the silver pins. If you fail to cut enough of it, I'm guessing you would need to file it down with another tool, since there won't be anything much left to grab onto with the wire cutter. What tool would you suggest for this? Also, is there a specific type of wire cutter that's best for precisely snipping the silver pins in the corner? Thank you.

Let me put your mind at ease.

Option 1: This is what I did first but this method is more cumbersome than the second one. With the full length of the op-amps + risers it’s not easy to put them in.

Option 2: The edge pins are super thin and they cut very easily. You also don’t have to cut the full length. I did just to make it clean. Believe me it takes less than 30 seconds to cut them all. Absolutely no filing or whatever needed.

 

[nioh]

Is this the wire cutter listed here? https://www.amazon.com/BOENFU-Cutters-Non-Slip-Crafting-Electrical/dp/B07C5PM8L4/ref=sr_1_29?crid=1LKNRL706H8VF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8lhSXNfiTKvlAbHTSufvICLoqe73yict45G_hzRZ0n4AVOgz25M8vmUkxOO63zbeaZWaK6gXFkaPSrWI0_YejozOXPbA_seklzkGQ8NKjyQHoxOjERCGu7wvV1J7jAlH0Fgkj1xPNW11-uhaVvlUptR8u0nHnVgLuVm7QahWJucqTW8JdBq-NQtIlKdijhZD7AV54nRqK7K42AAFmVjFi7s3w7iJ1yRMDDCt-5rQnfuaj0qyXzDMvT-S9SvceDDrOxMq30HBE0fru1T_reVxFtxeNFwvEsTlNF59MfoF3NQ.wddnHMP2Qk0MeC1P0kJajccAq9vQUfdK_xX1GjucgPI&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire+cutter&qid=1711451259&sprefix=wire+cutter,aps,105&sr=8-29&th=1

Yup that’s the one. On Amazon.de it was listed in German that’s why I didn’t link it earlier but you found it
The blades are really thin and sharp, allows you to cut those edges like butter and you can cut it precisely up to the last mm.

 

[grainjar]

Let me put your mind to ease.

Option 1: This is what I did first but this method is more cumbersome than the second one. With the full length of the op-amps + risers it’s not easy to put them in.

Option 2: The edge pins are super thin and they cut very easily. You also don’t have to cut the full length. I did just to make it clean. Believe me it takes less than 30 seconds to cut them all. Absolutely no filing or whatever needed.

Ah, okay then, I will go with option 2 in that case. Do you have to cut off the silver pins in all of the corners, or do you just cut the ones that look like they're in the way of those cylindrical parts?

And just to make sure, I need to buy 2 of the Sparkos SS3602 op amps. Sparkos sells it on their website for $80 each https://sparkoslabs.com/product/dual-discrete-op-amp-ss3602/

So if I order 2, that would be $160, since I need to replace both of the stock op amps on the board. I'm just trying to avoid any confusion, because it says "dual" op amp.

Yup that’s the one. On Amazon.de it was listed in German that’s why I didn’t link it earlier but you found it
The blades are really thin and sharp, allows you to cut those edges like butter.

Great, thank you.

 

[helloh3adfi]

If you buy a wire cutter, it should be Knippex to last longer. I will just use the ESS DAC. What would be the benefit of using other OP Amps other than stock ones? What brand are the stock op amps?

 

[nioh]

Ah, okay then, I will go with option 2 in that case. Do you have to cut off the silver pins in all of the corners, or do you just cut the ones that look like they're in the way of those cylindrical parts?

And just to make sure, I need to buy 2 of the Sparkos SS3602 op amps. Sparkos sells it on their website for $80 each https://sparkoslabs.com/product/dual-discrete-op-amp-ss3602/

So if I order 2, that would be $160, since I need to replace both of the stock op amps on the board. I'm just trying to avoid any confusion, because it says "dual" op amp.

Great, thank you.

You don’t need to cut all the edges, but I did anyway.
Yes you need 2xDual op-amps.

 

[Jeffyue]

Can you clarify what you mean with option 1, when you say that the device runs warmer compared to option 2? Can you explain how much warmer and how it affects the performance of the XD05 Pro? It does seem like the more user friendly option, though. If I understand correctly, there's no modification required like option 1 - you just have to connect the Sparkos SS3602 op amps on top of the DIP8 risers like legos, and then plug the whole piece onto the board. This would make the op amp even taller than it already looks in photos. And I'm assuming there's enough overhead clearance to allow this

Option 2 seems to be the most efficient for the device, since you say that it runs cooler. However, it does seem like the riskier option since it requires modification with a wire cutter. I'm worried that I might not cut enough of the silver pins; it looks like you have to cut really close to the board, so there's very little left of the silver pins. If you fail to cut enough of it, I'm guessing you would need to file it down with another tool, since there won't be anything much left to grab onto with the wire cutter. What tool would you suggest for this? Also, is there a specific type of wire cutter that's best for precisely snipping the silver pins in the corner? Thank you.

I use a normal nail clippers to do the job. I didn't file the remaining down to flat though
Cut until u can sit the op amp fully on the board, and mine left with like 0.5-1mm left.

 

[sofastreamer]

If you buy a wire cutter, it should be Knippex to last longer. I will just use the ESS DAC. What would be the benefit of using other OP Amps other than stock ones? What brand are the stock op amps?

I second knippex! As an e cigarette user i have been cutting wires on a weekly bases for the last 10 years. Knippex is the way to go. They use really well hardened steel for their tools

 

[grainjar]

You don’t need to cut all the edges, but I did anyway.
Yes you need 2xDual op-amps.

Thank you, I just ordered them. I was wondering how deep the Sparkos SS3602 op amps need to seat into the board, in order to approximate how much length of the silver edges I need to clear. I'm guessing I should just aim to cut the silver edges as close to the op amp board as possible. Hopefully I won't damage the op amp board

I use a normal nail clippers to do the job. I didn't file the remaining down to flat though
Cut until u can sit the op amp fully on the board, and mine left with like 0.5-1mm left.

Ah, I'm surprised you were able to cut the silver edges so close and parallel to the board with nail clippers, since nail clippers have a curved blade design. 0.5 to 1mm is a very close cut. So from what I gather, I should try to cut as close to the green board of the Sparkos op amp as possible

 

[LoneFurrow]

Hi all,

Sorry I didn't reply to some earlier comments more swiftly. I have shared a few photos of the SS3602s I have installed in my XD05 PRO. There was very little space on the opamp board so I both trimmed and then filed the protruding edges of some of the pins on the base of the opamps (NOT the DIP8 pins, obviously!).

When I initially did this and reinstalled the card, I received a PROTECT error on start-up. I believe a couple of the card pins (not sure what else to call then) were still catching against the caps, meaning the opamps weren't sitting correctly. A little more filing and careful re-insertion has resolved the issue and it now sounds great. This is the second XD05 PRO I've had, the previous being a loan. This opamp board is not quite as easy to fit as the earlier one, suggesting minor quality differences.

Hope that helps.

 

[LoneFurrow]

Thank you, I just ordered them. I was wondering how deep the Sparkos SS3602 op amps need to seat into the board, in order to approximate how much length of the silver edges I need to clear. I'm guessing I should just aim to cut the silver edges as close to the op amp board as possible. Hopefully I won't damage the op amp board


Ah, I'm surprised you were able to cut the silver edges so close and parallel to the board with nail clippers, since nail clippers have a curved blade design. 0.5 to 1mm is a very close cut. So from what I gather, I should try to cut as close to the green board of the Sparkos op amp as possible

It seems to depend slightly on the board construction, per my post above. You'll see I had to file quite close to the board to ensure proper insertion of the SS3602s and no PROTECT error. The card pins are quite soft and easy to file, so just be gentle and you should be fine.

I have a AKM DAC on loan at present and have found this runs a little cooler than the ESS DAC with the SS3602s installed.

 

[nioh]

Thank you, I just ordered them. I was wondering how deep the Sparkos SS3602 op amps need to seat into the board, in order to approximate how much length of the silver edges I need to clear. I'm guessing I should just aim to cut the silver edges as close to the op amp board as possible. Hopefully I won't damage the op amp board


Ah, I'm surprised you were able to cut the silver edges so close and parallel to the board with nail clippers, since nail clippers have a curved blade design. 0.5 to 1mm is a very close cut. So from what I gather, I should try to cut as close to the green board of the Sparkos op amp as possible

Don’t worry so much and you don’t have to cut them close to the board or anything but you can and it doesn’t hurt.

The board is designed for DIP-8 sockets and the op-amps fit well once the protruding pins at the edges are no longer touching the caps. It’s just a minor hindrance, not technical at all and you won’t damage anything as long as you DONT force anything.

 

[grainjar]

Hi all,

Sorry I didn't reply to some earlier comments more swiftly. I have shared a few photos of the SS3602s I have installed in my XD05 PRO. There was very little space on the opamp board so I both trimmed and then filed the protruding edges of some of the pins on the base of the opamps (NOT the DIP8 pins, obviously!).

When I initially did this and reinstalled the card, I received a PROTECT error on start-up. I believe a couple of the card pins (not sure what else to call then) were still catching against the caps, meaning the opamps weren't sitting correctly. A little more filing and careful re-insertion has resolved the issue and it now sounds great. This is the second XD05 PRO I've had, the previous being a loan. This opamp board is not quite as easy to fit as the earlier one, suggesting minor quality differences.

Hope that helps.

Ah, it looks like you had to work with less margin of error. Are those pictures BEFORE or AFTER you received the PROTECT error on startup? I notice the leftmost cap in the first picture isn't seated all the way on the board, leaving you even less clearance with the pins from the Sparkos op amps.

It seems to depend slightly on the board construction, per my post above. You'll see I had to file quite close to the board to ensure proper insertion of the SS3602s and no PROTECT error. The card pins are quite soft and easy to file, so just be gentle and you should be fine.

I have a AKM DAC on loan at present and have found this runs a little cooler than the ESS DAC with the SS3602s installed.

Can I ask what tool you used to file the pins, just in case I have to do the same thing? Also, how do you like the AKM card vs the ESS card with the Sparkos SS3602 op amps?

Don’t worry so much and you don’t have to cut them close to the board or anything but you can and it doesn’t hurt.

The board is designed for DIP-8 sockets and the op-amps fit well once the protruding pins at the edges are no longer touching the caps. It’s just a minor hindrance, not technical at all and you won’t damage anything as long as you DONT force anything.

Ah, thank you for the guidance

 

[Nanotech]

Excuse me. I posted it in the wrong place by mistake(V30+

 

[LoneFurrow]

Ah, it looks like you had to work with less margin of error. Are those pictures BEFORE or AFTER you received the PROTECT error on startup? I notice the leftmost cap in the first picture isn't seated all the way on the board, leaving you even less clearance with the pins from the Sparkos op amps.

Can I ask what tool you used to file the pins, just in case I have to do the same thing? Also, how do you like the AKM card vs the ESS card with the Sparkos SS3602 op amps?

Ah, thank you for the guidance

You're right that one of the caps on my amp card isn't seated particularly well, which relates to my comment about quality differences. I hope this was a one-off. The pics are from once I had everything seated and working correctly. I've since removed the amp card a few times (e.g. to take those photos) and it's behaving perfectly.

I just used a small file from a set I have, courtesy of Amaz0n, nothing fancy.

With regard to the AKM vs ESS, I've only had a short amount of time today to assess so far. As with everything in audio, synergy, your own hearing, and personal preferences vary wildly so I'm always cautious about offering opinions. I've been testing with Kinera Loki today as I figured it would work well with the AKM DAC. The synergy is excellent, at least to my ears. I'm a big fan of the stock ESS DAC but have ordered an AKM as well on the basis of today's listening.

Bass is deep, detailed and well-textured. Sub-bass seems improved on Loki with the AKM vs ESS DAC. Mind you, Loki can be a bit lean, depending on source.

Mids have a natural, organic tonality that's very enjoyable. Male and female vocals are a little warmer than the ESS. Subtle nuances still come through clearly, but with a hint more roundness to the notes.

Treble is a little smoother and slightly softer-edged than the ESS. It never feels like it's going to cause issues for those who are treble-sensitive (not me, I hasten to add). The sound is a little less airy but doesn't feel in any way congested or restricted.

Stage and instrument separation are excellent. There's great width and depth to the stage when the track dictates. Backing vocals (e.g. on Dreams by Fleetwood Mac) are beautifully positioned and presented.

I'm surprised and more than a little impressed with this particular pairing, to be honest.

 

[grainjar]

You're right that one of the caps on my amp card isn't seated particularly well, which relates to my comment about quality differences. I hope this was a one-off. The pics are from once I had everything seated and working correctly. I've since removed the amp card a few times (e.g. to take those photos) and it's behaving perfectly.

I just used a small file from a set I have, courtesy of Amaz0n, nothing fancy.

With regard to the AKM vs ESS, I've only had a short amount of time today to assess so far. As with everything in audio, synergy, your own hearing, and personal preferences vary wildly so I'm always cautious about offering opinions. I've been testing with Kinera Loki today as I figured it would work well with the AKM DAC. The synergy is excellent, at least to my ears. I'm a big fan of the stock ESS DAC but have ordered an AKM as well on the basis of today's listening.

Bass is deep, detailed and well-textured. Sub-bass seems improved on Loki with the AKM vs ESS DAC. Mind you, Loki can be a bit lean, depending on source.

Mids have a natural, organic tonality that's very enjoyable. Male and female vocals are a little warmer than the ESS. Subtle nuances still come through clearly, but with a hint more roundness to the notes.

Treble is a little smoother and slightly softer-edged than the ESS. It never feels like it's going to cause issues for those who are treble-sensitive (not me, I hasten to add). The sound is a little less airy but doesn't feel in any way congested or restricted.

Stage and instrument separation are excellent. There's great width and depth to the stage when the track dictates. Backing vocals (e.g. on Dreams by Fleetwood Mac) are beautifully positioned and presented.

I'm surprised and more than a little impressed with this particular pairing, to be honest.

Ah, I haven't seen any comparisons between the AKM and ESS cards with the Sparkos SS3602 op amps, so I really appreciate the insight. I've seen some reviewers preferring the AKM card to the ESS card, but they were using the stock op amps. Do you think the stage and instrument separation is better on the AKM than on the ESS, or do you think it's pretty close?