[pdupiano]

Hey folks, does anyone know of a "safe" way to recable the gs1000's? I've worked on several grado models, but none of the wood cupped ones (rs and gs series). I was wondering what the process looks like because the wood ones feel lighter and easer to break as opposed to the metal and plastic cups I've worked on in the past. If anyone has any tips please share.

THANKS!
Paul

EDIT: Ok so drivers out, new cables needed, I need suggestions. Anything but silver/gold at this point.

Pics Below

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdupiano /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey folks, does anyone know of a "safe" way to recable the gs1000's? I've worked on several grado models, but none of the wood cupped ones (rs and gs series). I was wondering what the process looks like because the wood ones feel lighter and easer to break as opposed to the metal and plastic cups I've worked on in the past. If anyone has any tips please share. THANKS! Paul

I'm lined up here with ya. I just balanced mine(GS1000) yesterday. I was too skeered to try a recable! But would love to know the technique on how to get the drivers out for a recable. My concerns are when you heat it up enough to loosen the glue, how do you push the driver out? Also it seems you would need a third hand feeding the wire so you don't tear off the solder pads to the Voice coil.

Even on Headphiles site it says they are a PITA to do. Someone cut loose with the Secret Technique!

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[pdupiano]

I'd assume that you can lightly pry off the drivers once you get rid of the glue. I've seen others "break into" their rs1's and they pryed out the drivers leaving quite a few marks on the wood. But to be honest, if that's the only technique then I think more glue can cover things up. I'm tempted to cut out the drivers, and instead of regluing them, use a ring of dynamat around the drivers (should be better for dampening and sealing than glue) and it would still allow the drivers for accessibility in the future. A helping hand or heatsink on the pad's is fine I prefer using a cheap heatsink/clamp I got from ratshack when I work with drivers. ... if I somehow sum up the courage to do it, I'll post pics.... I'm pretty much....yeah lets just say this job makes me feel like I'm pissing in my pants.

 

[rds]

If I was going to attempt this I would carefully push the metal mesh on the back of the cups free (I assume it's glued). Then with the mesh free inside the cup you could angle it in such a way that you could squeeze in a soldering iron.

Going from the front just sounds like a disaster.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rds /img/forum/go_quote.gif If I was going to attempt this I would carefully push the metal mesh on the back of the cups free (I assume it's glued). Then with the mesh free inside the cup you could angle it in such a way that you could squeeze in a soldering iron. Going from the front just sounds like a disaster.

I'm following you here. How about get the mesh loose and heat up the glue around the driver and push it out from the back with like a pencil eraser. You don't have to put a lot of heat on the glue to make it loosen up. I think you are onto something here with getting the mesh loose first.

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[pdupiano]

ok so after a few beers I summoned up enough courage to take my gs1000's apart. and I did.. atleast 1 cup until I got sober. A few things I now know I didn't while I was drunk.

1. If you push the mesh through (which is VERY easy) - you can't take it out, and you can't replace it....
2. If you push the mesh through you can't fit a soldering pencil in there... at all trust me
3. Patience is key
4. If you're a DIYER Don't drink and keep your expensive headphones nearby

I have a final exam tomorrow that I still need to study for and I'll be able to finish up the project by this Wed/Thursday, I'll post pics.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdupiano /img/forum/go_quote.gif ok so after a few beers I summoned up enough courage to take my gs1000's apart. and I did.. atleast 1 cup until I got sober. A few things I now know I didn't while I was drunk. 1. If you push the mesh through (which is VERY easy) - you can't take it out, and you can't replace it.... 2. If you push the mesh through you can't fit a soldering pencil in there... at all trust me 3. Patience is key 4. If you're a DIYER Don't drink and keep your expensive headphones nearby I have a final exam tomorrow that I still need to study for and I'll be able to finish up the project by this Wed/Thursday, I'll post pics.

Heh! You must still be drunk! I can't follow you at all...

When you say push the Mesh through, what do you mean by through?

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[apatN]

I am confident you can take the plastic driver pieces out through the front. You'll have to deal with the glue there first. Just PM an experienced member or contact let's say, APureSound or ALO.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by apatN /img/forum/go_quote.gif I am confident you can take the plastic driver pieces out through the front. You'll have to deal with the glue there first. Just PM an experienced member or contact let's say, APureSound or ALO.

I don't know anyone who is an expert at dealing with the solid wood Grados. I doubt the vendors are gonna divulge their tricks.

I've taken a number of the plastic ones apart, they're easy.

 

[rds]

The people who do this regularly might have a specialty very long soldering tip that will fit between the mesh and the cup when the mesh is pushed to the side.

This way no opening the front or removing drivers or anything crazy like that.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rds /img/forum/go_quote.gif The people who do this regularly might have a specialty very long soldering tip that will fit between the mesh and the cup when the mesh is pushed to the side. This way no opening the front or removing drivers or anything crazy like that.

I just went thru 4 sets of bad drivers on my GS1000s earlier this year before Grado got their act together and made them work right. Long story. I'd like to know how they replace them. If the mesh is easy to set aside that would do it. get the mesh displaced, warm the wood up and push the driver out from the back after feeding a little cable into the bowl.

 

[pdupiano]

Trust me, no one would solder through the back. The angle's aren't there, and theres still the mesh to deal with. You can try it, push the mesh into (thats what I meant yesterday) Just take your thumbs and push the mesh, it has VERY little glue holding it in place. Once you do that, your options are:
1. Cry
2. Cry some more
3. Bend the mesh and take it out (remember, like sewer covers, they're round and can't be taken out at any angle, if the mesh was square, it would be nice and easy)

As for the soldering "from behind." Assuming you've decided to break your mesh and have taken it out of the wooden cup and have full access to the pads, you would still need a right angle Tip. Going at such a steep angle would never allow you enough contact area to cleanly desolder, solder, etc.....

Don't worry I'm done with taking the cups out, I just need to find the right cable, I still have some vampire wire with me and I might use that, but I'm very tempted to use the Cardas Cable I have lying around. At the end of the day, doing the mod right requires one thing... Patience. No tricks, no inside info, its just real patience and care. Thats the main reason why its a real pain. Pics should be up later tonight after my final exam

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdupiano /img/forum/go_quote.gif Trust me, no one would solder through the back. The angle's aren't there, and theres still the mesh to deal with. You can try it, push the mesh into (thats what I meant yesterday) Just take your thumbs and push the mesh, it has VERY little glue holding it in place. Once you do that, your options are: 1. Cry 2. Cry some more 3. Bend the mesh and take it out (remember, like sewer covers, they're round and can't be taken out at any angle, if the mesh was square, it would be nice and easy) As for the soldering "from behind." Assuming you've decided to break your mesh and have taken it out of the wooden cup and have full access to the pads, you would still need a right angle Tip. Going at such a steep angle would never allow you enough contact area to cleanly desolder, solder, etc..... Don't worry I'm done with taking the cups out, I just need to find the right cable, I still have some vampire wire with me and I might use that, but I'm very tempted to use the Cardas Cable I have lying around. At the end of the day, doing the mod right requires one thing... Patience. No tricks, no inside info, its just real patience and care. Thats the main reason why its a real pain. Pics should be up later tonight after my final exam

Hey, ya left something out! How did you get the drivers out? Judicious application of heat?

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[pdupiano]

Nope, judicious application of patience. .. Lots and Lots of patience.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdupiano /img/forum/go_quote.gif Nope, judicious application of patience. .. Lots and Lots of patience.

Heh,
This is like pulling teeth! The drivers are glued in, how did you get them out?