[soloz2]

I hope that works for ya! btw... that looks stellar! and yeah a volt meter would be a good investment... check out sears. they usually have a decent one on sale for $10 at least once a month

 

[Joshatdot]

There is no more buzzing, that solder bridge was the culprit. But I think I ruined the op-amp

I turn it on, I hear a lil pop/clip of it powering on. I play music from my iRiver @ 30/40 volume, and slowly turn up the CMoy. I start to hear it faintly at max volume, only on the Right channel and its not clear. It clips on the bass, and kinda sounds like a FM radio is off frequency of the radio station -/+ . Say 89.5 is the station, and you can kinda hear it on 89.3 or 89.7.

 

[achina]

I hope you are using cheap headphones to test it. If the op-amp is damaged it could be putting out DC.

It could just be that the batteries are dead. You really need a meter. You can probably find one locally for under $20.

 

[Joshatdot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by soloz2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I hope that works for ya! btw... that looks stellar! and yeah a volt meter would be a good investment... check out sears. they usually have a decent one on sale for $10 at least once a month

Thanks soloz2, I dont know if I eff'ed up the op-amp or what, once I get a meter i'll try and figure out whats wrong.

Quote:

Originally Posted by achina /img/forum/go_quote.gif I hope you are using cheap headphones to test it. If the op-amp is damaged it could be putting out DC. It could just be that the batteries are dead. You really need a meter. You can probably find one locally for under $20.

I am using some $2 cans I got at Salvation Army

I'll get a multi-meter today.


I am tempted to re-do the whole board, or maybe another Tin. I had to Dremel the protoboard alot to make it fit with the phone jacks (I placed them too low so the wires don't fit under them).

 

[Joshatdot]

Ok I tested the power circuit, I am getting +18v on the right channel side, and 0v on the left side. The Tangetsoft tut sais there's a bridge, so I'll take a look see.
Quote:

The most common mistake is a solder bridge, which usually causes the full input voltage (+8VDC in our example) to appear on one side of the power supply and 0 volts to appear on the other side. Fix any problems before continuing.

 

[Joshatdot]

I checked my solders, I dont see any bridges. I think I need to start over again, my proto board is so eff'ed looking from my Dremeling to make it fit.

 

[achina]

At what points are you measuring your voltages? From ground to pin 8 should be +9 and from ground to pin 4 should be -9. Measure it with the op-amp removed.

Pin 8 doesn't look good. Reheat it and add a little more solder.

 

[TzeYang]

^ i thought he paralleled the 9V batteries? how can he get +9V and -9V?

 

[heatmizer]

disregard

 

[Joshatdot]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TzeYang /img/forum/go_quote.gif ^ i thought he paralleled the 9V batteries? how can he get +9V and -9V?

I switched it to series now, so I get 18v.

 

[achina]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TzeYang /img/forum/go_quote.gif ^ i thought he paralleled the 9V batteries? how can he get +9V and -9V?

He rearranged them. Take a look at his pictures in the can.

 

[Joshatdot]

[size=medium]I EFF'ED IT UP BEYOND REPAIR!!!

So I need to buy a new Kit
[/size]

I salvaged the 3.5mm Jacks, Alps Vol/Switch, 9v Snaps and LED. I could try and de-solder the IC Socket, but I don't think I can w/o ****ing it up more.

I was rebuilding a new Board, got what I could get done w/o the caps and resisters & IC Socket. Then when I needed them, I tried to desolder the caps and resisters .. SNAP goes a leg on one of the 0.1 uF caps, SNAP goes some of the stuff off a resister. I cannot at all budge the 470 uF cap off the board.

SO...I am off to Digi-Key to get new crap.

 

[Joshatdot]

I got 99% salvaged. The resisters are ok, only a 100k ohm tests at 95k ohm. I can't test the caps, and the one that leg snapped might be salvageable with lead clippings soldered to whats left.

 

[Joshatdot]

[size=medium]ITS WORKING!!!

WHOO HOO!!!

WOW my iRiver sounds SOOO MUCH BETTER!!! And the KSC75's sound AWESOME!!![/size]


I redid the whole board, tested the Power Circuit when I should have. Dual 9V batts in series. When I tested the power circuit I was getting +9v on one side and -9v on the other!!

But I need to get/make a new mini-to-mini interconnect. Right now I am using a 6' mini-to-mini that I used with my old Yamaha Stereo.

 

[colonelkernel8]

Good for you man. I am happy for you.