[Ferdinando1968]

Have you tried it with another toslink receiver? Many output 192kHz via toslink.

Maybe I've found the problem.
I use the following adapter to enter the Gryphon's SPDIF:

I repeat, it is the exact same cable that works with the MINI.
Of course I also tried other cables, perhaps of better quality, some with integrated adapter.

Well, if instead of inserting adapter all the way down into the optical input, I hold it slightly back, the audio interference disappears.

Going even further back, the noise is heard again, ever greater, until the audio switches off completely.

I'm not an expert in optical transmission, but it would seem a problem of optical focus or saturation of the optical signal.

I will communicate the outcome of this test to Wiim.

 

[adias]

Maybe I've found the problem.
I use the following adapter to enter the Gryphon's SPDIF:



I repeat, it is the exact same cable that works with the MINI.
Of course I also tried other cables, perhaps of better quality, some with integrated adapter.

Well, if instead of inserting adapter all the way down into the optical input, I hold it slightly back, the audio interference disappears.

Going even further back, the noise is heard again, ever greater, until the audio switches off completely.

I'm not an expert in optical transmission, but it would seem a problem of optical focus or saturation of the optical signal.

I will communicate the outcome of this test to Wiim.

Those adapters are tricky and they may not couple the light correctly. Glad you found the culprit.

 

[Ferdinando1968]

Those adapters are tricky and they may not couple the light correctly. Glad you found the culprit.

As I wrote, I also tried other cables, perhaps of better quality, and with the integrated adapter.
Audio noise still occurs.

I don't think the adapter is the problem.

Furthermore, with the MINI the problem does not occur.

 

[D1N0]

Might this be an MQA related problem?

 

[ZAXX40]

Introducing higher amps to the Pro or Mini is not necessarily what is needed, but more about getting clean, low ripple & regulated DC power going into the pro. The problem is that these cheap switching power supplies are very susceptible to introducing dirty and unregulated power to the Pro.
"Switching power supplies are the entry point of external noise from other systems and also the exit point for releasing noise to the load (e.g., IC circuits). The switching power supply itself is also a source of noise. This noise does not only flow through power supply lines as conducted noise but also becomes radiated noise (harmful electromagnetic radiation)—which adversely affects itself and other electronic equipment."

It's best to use is a highly regulated linear AC-DC power supply feeding super clean and rock stable DC juice to the Pro or any other audio components requiring DC power, like most science equipment, research, aerospace and measuring components use LPS's. The problem is that they're expensive, big in size (physically) and inefficient (electricity-wise), A non-audiophile Acopian Gold "series A" LPS are excellent (very low Ripple mV RMS: 0.25) but need some finish work for home environment use.
I can confirm using a good battery source dramatically improves my usb reclocker SQ but also found the cheap 5v usb cell phone battery back-up packs on amazon do not, they were noisy due to the cheap & anemic electronic regulator & charging components inside them, So mileage may vary on what you use,

Personally, I can not yet confirm or know if the Wiim Pro or Mini will have a noticeable SQ improvement or Not when using a better PS than the stock one. But as quoted above, the typical cheaply made china $2-ish SMPS (wall wart) power supplies that are included in a lot of audio components can really effect SQ and performance of the component. That's what's so great about the DIY Audio DC filter kit (DIY Store & thread), it can be a cheap solution, it's small, it's efficient and cleans up to stabilize and helps filter out noise or dirty juice coming out of your wall wart before going into the component (Wiim). DC juice with Ripple is not your friend and you want get rid as much ripple as possible. A highly regulated, low ripple, properly filtered stage will also most likely help reduce any jitter being produced in the Wiim and help the components inside the Wiim work at max potential of their design and help keep them from puttering.

It's like giving your car high quality, high octane gas.

I tried an IFI Elite 5volt power supply on a Wiim Pro. The lights on the Wiim come on but never seems to fully boot as it cant be seen in the App. When I swich back to the cheap wall wort it boots right away. Any thoughts why this would be happening?

 

[adias]

I tried an IFI Elite 5volt power supply on a Wiim Pro. The lights on the Wiim come on but never seems to fully boot as it cant be seen in the App. When I swich back to the cheap wall wort it boots right away. Any thoughts why this would be happening?

What's the current capability of the iFi unit compared to the WiiM supply current? Answer 5A.

So yes it should easily drive the WiiM. What about the cable you are using? Is the USB-C cable pinout right?

 

[D1N0]

I tried an IFI Elite 5volt power supply on a Wiim Pro. The lights on the Wiim come on but never seems to fully boot as it cant be seen in the App. When I swich back to the cheap wall wort it boots right away. Any thoughts why this would be happening?

Maybe the WIIM doesn't like the IFI Elite for some reason. IFI is answering questions about the Elite in this topic. https://www.head-fi.org/threads/power-supply-for-streamer-sbooster-or-ifi-ipower-elite.961516/page-3

 

[mlsstl]

RE: power supply -- this wouldn't be the first time a higher end component, in their pursuit of "better", deviates just enough from the conventional standards to cause problems. I'd suspect some very sight different in the physical dimensions and configurations of the plug and how it fits the Wiim's power socket.

 

[mr_macgee]

Is the USB-C cable pinout right?

It could be this, a friend of mine recently did try to use a IFI iPower Elite on his new Eero's (USB-C 5v input) that fed his LinQ streamer but it burned out his eeros. I think it could either be that the pinout's are different or may have different physical non-standard tolerances on the male plug? It's just a thought and I can not verify this.

Would be good to hear from someone who has more experience and knowledge of USB-C standards and using it for clean & simple DC power.

Side Note: Personally, I think using USB-C cables for non-mobile audio components is a bit silly, You have to be careful because there's many USB-C cables (majority of aftermarket) are designed for "Fast Charge" for cell phones that are not necessarily good or safe for audio use. I find it very frustrating that Burson Audio uses this standard for their USB data data (no power) on their DAC's. I've had to forgo all my good (already paid for) USB A-B audio cables and seek out a USB A to C. You've have to be careful with the pinout and internal circuitry boards built inside/hidden in the plugs of many aftermarket cables with a USB-C plug. Currently there's not too many decent dedicated USB A to C cables for audio on the market; it's either buy cheap aftermarket $10 cable from Amazon for phones or $300+ ones made to order but not a lot between.

I wished Wiim Pro used a simple DC barrel plug for power on the input side instead of USB-C.

 

[iFi audio]

Maybe the WIIM doesn't like the IFI Elite for some reason. IFI is answering questions about the Elite in this topic. https://www.head-fi.org/threads/power-supply-for-streamer-sbooster-or-ifi-ipower-elite.961516/page-3

The only reason I can think of is mechanical incompatibility between iPower Elite's plug (standard issue 5.5x2.1mm barrel) and WIIM's socket. It's extremely rare, but it happens if tolerances are off somewhere. Thanks!

 

[D1N0]

The only reason I can think of is mechanical incompatibility between iPower Elite's plug (standard issue 5.5x2.1mm barrel) and WIIM's socket. It's extremely rare, but it happens if tolerances are off somewhere. Thanks!

The WIIM pro is powered via USB-C

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

The WIIM pro is powered via USB-C

I think what @iFi audio meant is something is off in the adapter, perhaps something like center pin neg/pos, forgive me not that well versed in adapters, lol

I have a set of adapters for the barrel connector which I have used to power many things from the iFi series of PSs, I did not buy it individually it came with a PS I bought from Amazon ( I will try to find a link). I know it worked for the Wiim Mini (don't have the pro) and also for RPIs, Chord Mojo ETC.

This is the USB C Barrel...

I will post the link if I can remember the item...

Cheers!!

 

[iFi audio]

The WIIM pro is powered via USB-C

Yup, an adapter is needed, but (as per @Mr BubbaHyde's post) I think that the core problem may have the same mechanical foundation. Thanks!

 

[D1N0]

Yup, an adapter is needed, but (as per @Mr BubbaHyde's post) I think that the core problem may have the same mechanical foundation. Thanks!

The adapter is in the box with the IFI elite, isn't it. There is one with my iPower X.

 

[Mr BubbaHyde]

The adapter is in the box with the IFI elite, isn't it. There is one with my iPower X.

Found the adapters I ordered...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZ7Q2N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I honestly do not remember what was included in the box, but somewhere in my mind I'm thinking there was an adapter for reversing the polarity included, don't quote me...

Cheers!!

P.S. I no longer have a 5v Elite or X so I can't really test it for you, I was speaking from past knowledge.

Cheers!!