[amb]

I don't think there is need to use any fancy stuff to clean off the flux. I use a brush and acetone from the hardware store. Works like a charm and leaves no residues.

-Ti

 

[Demolition]

I generally use 99.953% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol to clean off flux. Cheap by the gallon and works pretty well.

D.

 

[greyhorse]

I tend to clean most of what I solder, but am always concerned with the effects of the solvent on the parts. Some flux solvents melt thru plastic very easily, but does anyone know about what chemicals are safe for all parts? I am particularly concerned with those expensive PPS SMD bypasses I'm using nowadays.

 

[morsel]

I use 90% isopropyl alcohol from the grocery store and an old toothbrush.

Beware of using acetone and other strong nonpolar solvents, they can dissolve silkscreen, soldermask, and plastic parts.

 

[tangent]

Quote:

what chemicals are safe for all parts?

Anhydrous isopropyl is about as benign as you can hope to find. Alcohol with water in it isn't horrible, but it's better if it's distilled water, and even then you want to blow it off the board quickly, not let it evaporate slowly. Often the less pure alcohols have impurities in them that leave a haze behind on the board, which may alter its electrical properties. That's why you see so many people recommending 99.x% anhydrous isopropyl -- it's the right tool for the job.

Regarding acetone, I keep some stuff around for occasional use, but I never use it as a general purpose defluxer. It'll work for that, but it eats many types of plastic. It won't hurt epoxy-encapsulated parts and such, but for instance what about a pot you've soldered to the board? It'll eat the shell of that for sure.

 

[morgan jones]

When you heat the solder with the iron, there is an explosion of flux and solder droplets. If you don't clean the flux (and those solder droplets) away, it makes the board leaky. I use Chemtronics "Flux-off" (don't say it too quickly) flux remover, followed by isopropyl alcohol.

 

[IpsilonSound]

I wouldn't use acetone under any conditions for cleaning pcb, it's basically a thinner for paint and plastic destroyer, just like Morsel said and I agree 100%.
Don't know if it works for others, but here's my story...Last night I tried alcohol-based PCB Cleaner from electronics store(1L for 12bucks cnd). After brushing off the backside with plenty of it, it dries out and leaves a dusty looking film residue. You would really need plenty of this cleaner on the brush, since little of it doesn't work, the surface feels sticky and dirty. After brushing and cleaning with a metal brush(not a steel one, a brass one is good for this job), I used a paper towel to collect the dirty alcohol which took the flux off the board and let it dry out for a minute or two. AFter that I took a nylon brush and brushed off the dusty stuff, it's easy and leaves a nice clean looking board.

 

[IpsilonSound]

"Flux-off" (don't say it too quickly)

unless someone is rrrrreally bugging you

 

[JohnFerrier]

Besides a dishwasher for the whole circuit board, the best method I've seen for washing areas of a PCBA is to spray degreaser into a clean lint free towel, put towel to area to be cleaned, and brush. Move towel to new area, and brush. This wicks flux off the board. An old clean T-shirt (cut up into a convenient size) would work well for a towel.


JF

 

[morsel]

Cloth or paper towels tend to snag on the clipped lead ends, leaving fuzzles of lint. With the toothbrush technique I frequently dip the toothbrush in a shotglass of alcohol as I scrub the the flux off. A quicker second pass of the board with fresh alcohol makes it pretty enough for me.

 

[morsel]

Moderator, please delete.

 

[peranders]

I do it especially if I am going to take photos. I use 99.5% isopropanol first together with a brush with cut hair (is it the right word), then rince it with water. I repeat this procedure once or twice, then I use "Yes" and water, rinsing, then blow it dry with compressed air.

 

[amb]

Yes I agree that acetone is rather strong. So far the majority of my use have been on the solder side of single-sided home-made PCBs that have no silkscreening, and I've had no problem with acetone. However acetone *will* wash away markings on some electronic parts so I always make sure I don't get any on the component side. For commercially made boards with silkscreening, or double sided boards, or those with SMTs I would go with isopropyl alcohol. It's a little less efficient at cleaning, dries more slowly, but much safer.

-Ti

 

[ppl]

Myself i have to agree with John an old dishwasher that can be dedicated to non food cleaning using that electrsol stuff works fantastic except high silver content generly leaves a slight white flacky stuff at the location i brush that off with a tooth brush.

Prior to using the Dishwasher method i used 99% Iso and on ocasion Everclare and a tooth brush however i again go over the area with another dry Brush to Dry like IpsilonSound, BTW that is a really cleen PPA board if i must say there IpsilonSound

 

[Porksoda]

Quote:

Originally Posted by guzzler always... a little time with IPA and an old toothbrush cleans it off nicely and it looks so much nicer after. Flux isn't the nicest stuff as well so I don't want to be touching it too much g

you clean it with Indian Pale Ale? Never thought to try that...