[taylor]

About 14 months ago I bought Sony V6. Worked great, really liked them. Eventually, replaced with Grado SR-60 and lent the V6s to my brother. He wasn't getting any sound, so I took a look at them. Fired up my setup, SR-60s work fine. Take them out and plug in the V6s, no sound. I don't see any surface damage on the cords. Not even staticky or anything, just silent. I even remembered to put on the V6s and still, no sound.

What should I do?

 

[DaHoboFest]

done that before, forgot to put them on, while ur at it, you might want to check if your source is turned on.

 

[DaHoboFest]

oops, aciddental double post.

 

[grawk]

I had to replace my coiled cable when I got a short in my cable. It's fairly easy, and improves the sound, taboot.

 

[kramer5150]

Use a DMM and measure resistance across the + and - terminal lug, relative to gnd. Should be around 65 ohms if not then youve either got blown driver coils or an open circuit.

open up the earcups and check for continuity between the - plug terminal and each of the - solder pads on the drivers. Do the same continuity check on the + sides. If all the conductors are not open, then youve got ain issue with the drivers or the solder joints on the drivers.

Garrett

 

[taylor]

How do I open the earcups? The plug gets infinite ohms between L/G and R/G and R/L.

 

[sumguy_]

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylor How do I open the earcups? The plug gets infinite ohms between L/G and R/G and R/L.

Infinite Resistance (I.e no conduction at all) btw. R/G and L/G means that both the right and the left channels are totally severed. Somewhere along the line there is a clear break in the circuit. I dont have any experience with the V6, but it nevertheless seems strange that this would happen for no reason.

I dont know how to open the cups, but my advice would be to do so (if it is possible w/out damage) to make sure that the drivers are still hooked up to the cable. This will elimianate the posibility that a yank on the cord didnt simply break the connection. If it has, you can simply re-solder the points (making sure you ahve the right channels etc. and it should all be well... If you dont see any problems with the conenction btw. the driver adn the cable, that means that the cable itself has a fault somewhere down the line. Not an expert at this, but I would guess that the easiest way to fix this is a re-cable (ie. a completely new cable).

For reference: No conduction btw R/L on the headphone Jack is normal since the right channel and the left channel are completely different circuits. Only the Ground is common to both.

 

[PeterR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sumguy_ For reference: No conduction btw R/L on the headphone Jack is normal since the right channel and the left channel are completely different circuits. Only the Ground is common to both.

No, R-L would be twice the impedance of R-G or L-G:
L----G----R

 

[kramer5150]

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylor How do I open the earcups? The plug gets infinite ohms between L/G and R/G and R/L.

Remove the earpads. Unscrew the 4 screws seen here note the stock V6 earcup is the metallic looking one on the left:

inside the left earcup looks like this... The wires are long enough and provide enough slack to allow you to work.

Infinite ohms= an open circuit.... Not good. You should measure about 65 ohms across each speaker when measured at the plug. With the earcups opened up, check for continuity between the 1/8 plug and the driver solder pads. If you do not have conduction you have a bad cable or plug.

With the earcups opened up measure resistance across the solder pads on the drivers you should measure about 65 ohms across each of the coils. If you measure no resistance then you have either a blown coil or the lead wire inside the driver has become severed. Note that I have seen strange things... Like 5Meg Ohm readings on some "partially" blown coils. Either way is a bad situation and will require driver replacement.

Youve gotta break it down. The headphone is nothing more than a small speaker soldered to some wires and terminated with a 1/8 plug.

Keep us updated on what you find....
Garrett

 

[sumguy_]

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterR No, R-L would be twice the impedance of R-G or L-G: L----G----R

Hmm interesting... thinking about it, its logical, hehe just one of those pre-conceptions; Ive actually experimented with this, and it never occured to me to check that.

 

[taylor]

The drivers are both getting ~60Ω, the cable between them is fine, and either the coiled cord or the plug is shot. Any way to disassemble the plug without chopping the cable?

 

[grawk]

I guarantee the cable is shot and not the connector. But no, the connector isn't servicable. You should just bite the bullet and replace the cable.

 

[kramer5150]

Quote:

Originally Posted by taylor The drivers are both getting ~60Ω, the cable between them is fine, and either the coiled cord or the plug is shot. Any way to disassemble the plug without chopping the cable?

Thats good... replacement drivers are around $60.

Im not sure... that sony uni-match plug is pressed together and not a screw type. I tried unscrewing mine and could not get the dam thing apart. On some other metal press-fit assemblies, Ive heard about guys heating the parts up in an oven/heat gun. The metal expands at different rates and you can then pull the components apart. Not sure if this technique will work on that sony plug.

I have an extra V6 coiled cord with uni-match plug in my parts box. IM 99% certain its still good, I'll check it on my DMM if youre interested. PM me with your snail mail address if you want to buy it. I'll unload it to you for $10 shipped.

Pretty sure if you buy a replacement from Sony they only sell the coiled cord with plug... IE they dont sell just the plug separately.


Garrett

 

[taylor]

I probably will, just give me a day or two to get it approved by the 'rents.