Walnut F1 toasted chip?
Jun 1, 2018 at 7:21 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 16

toear

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Hi all

My relatively new walnut f1 just stopped working... This chip seems to have fried. Does anyone know what chip it is, or why it might fry?

The amp is stock.

Thanks and much appreciated!

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Jun 4, 2018 at 10:46 AM Post #3 of 16
Could be an op-amp. Doesn't look damaged, sometimes companies cover up the information on the top to try and prevent people from duplicating the circuit.

...actually looking on Google images someone else's chip is covered up as well.
10002240.jpg
 
Jun 4, 2018 at 11:46 AM Post #4 of 16
Ok... thank you for the confirmation... I thought it was the top of the chip that was burnt.

So, it could be the opamp/dac (actually the Aliexpress seller I purchased from identified that chip as a dac). If indeed it is painted, what would cause the amp to not have any output?

If I turn the volume all the way up I do hear a tiny bit of noise (pops/crackle/distortion), but only at full volume so something is getting through, just nothing I want. :p

What else could it be...?

Thanks again!
 
Jun 4, 2018 at 11:53 AM Post #5 of 16
So I assume they just don't want people to know what DAC chip they are using in the unit. The cover up of the details would not cause it to not work. Given that both channels are not working... and I'm assuming you are using a fresh battery... we can really only isolate the problem to the shared op-amp, power supply and dac. Given the only user replaceable item in that chain is the OPA2604, that's about the only thing you could test. You're better off just shipping it back to the seller to fix/replace.
 
Jun 4, 2018 at 1:08 PM Post #6 of 16
Thanks for narrowing the search parameters. I am speaking with the seller now to try to find some kind of solution. Sending the unit back is extremely cost prohibitive given the cost of the unit.
 
Jun 7, 2018 at 11:18 AM Post #7 of 16
the chip looks like usb interface chip. as f1 is charged from usb, if this chip burned, the battery may run out off power....
could you try some way to charge the battery somewhere else and see if helps?
 
Jun 7, 2018 at 6:53 PM Post #9 of 16
then if none of left/right channel working, you may want to try replace the opa2604 with any op you have... otherwise it may be either drv134... the strusture is simple and not too many possibilities..
 
Jun 7, 2018 at 10:22 PM Post #10 of 16
then if none of left/right channel working, you may want to try replace the opa2604 with any op you have... otherwise it may be either drv134... the strusture is simple and not too many possibilities..

Ok thanks! Can you clarify what the Dr 134 is? I am assuming it is the other two sockets, one for se and on for balanced?

If so, what kind chip do I replace it with?

Much appreciated!
 
Jun 10, 2018 at 10:32 AM Post #13 of 16
May be may not be:frowning2:
Sounds the problem is from the power supply - just checked from Internet found F1 boost battery to +/- 12V for the OPAMP. Do you have a meter to verify if the power is normal? (between ground and pin 4/8?
 
Jun 12, 2018 at 11:52 AM Post #14 of 16
May be may not be:frowning2:
Sounds the problem is from the power supply - just checked from Internet found F1 boost battery to +/- 12V for the OPAMP. Do you have a meter to verify if the power is normal? (between ground and pin 4/8?
hmmm... I do have a multimeter. Would I be trying to measure the voltage? Also, are you talking about the pin on the opamp?

Thanks!

:)
 
Jun 17, 2018 at 10:39 PM Post #15 of 16
May be may not be:frowning2:
Sounds the problem is from the power supply - just checked from Internet found F1 boost battery to +/- 12V for the OPAMP. Do you have a meter to verify if the power is normal? (between ground and pin 4/8?
Thanks for the clue! I had a chance to take a closer look this weekend and found the issue to be a loose connection for the battery. I buckled this up and recharged it... Now it's working like a charm!

Thank you!! :)
 

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