Vintage Beyerdynamics DT990 600 ohm: help with complete disassemble
Mar 10, 2013 at 5:54 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 20

crazynorweegian

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I just picked up a 600 ohm vintage pair of DT990 at an estate sale...... for $8.

I brought them home and I am not thrilled with the sound. I will figure that part out on my own with some new wires and pads but I want to completely break them down, clean them, and add some flare. I got the plastic disk out that holds the driver but I cannot get the outer plastic ring out that retains the felt cushion and the barrier/ filter for the vent (which is a bit dirty). I have tried heating it with a heat lamp, popping it out from the outside, and prying it up from the inside. I got it out from two of its retainers but the other lower two retainers won't budge. I feel like if I try to force it anymore I will ruin them. If someone has some tricks to share that would be appreciated.
 
Mar 10, 2013 at 8:46 AM Post #3 of 20
They are not hard to drive, and I'm quite thrilled with the sound from mine.
 
I'm not sure which plastic bit you mean. Pictures, maybe? I remember the driver being a pain to remove, but easy once I figured out the trick to it. Can't remember the trick now, though, but there was one.
 
Mar 10, 2013 at 1:42 PM Post #4 of 20
Quote:
They are not hard to drive, and I'm quite thrilled with the sound from mine.
 
I'm not sure which plastic bit you mean. Pictures, maybe? I remember the driver being a pain to remove, but easy once I figured out the trick to it. Can't remember the trick now, though, but there was one.

If I recall, the only photo I've EVER seen of the bare naked DT990 driver (actual membrane/diaphragm) was from you. So if you can't help him, nobody can. 
triportsad.gif


When I cleaned up my vintage DT990, I kept the driver in the white fabric covered housing, and washed the rest of it under a sink away from all the electronics and internal driver housing. 
But I agree. They sound so good, they compete with modern headphones in A LOT of aspects. A very musical sound.
 
Also pictures! (and annotations if you can) That will help.
 
Mar 10, 2013 at 5:02 PM Post #5 of 20
Quote:
Also pictures! (and annotations if you can) That will help.

OK. I should have not mentioned anything about sound. It is just a matter of pad choice.
 
My issue: I want to take out the gray nylon looking sheet on the outside vent of the cans. The driver assembly is easy to get out, the layer under that is where I am having trouble; it is really stuck.
 
Pictures:
 
(Assembled)
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/crazynorweegian/F53EF6E2-7E0C-41F3-9CAC-37EFA44A6351-330-000000AFB2E2D96B_zpsa788ff92.jpg
 
 
 
(Partial disassemble, screw driver pointing to plastic ring I am having trouble with.)
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/crazynorweegian/9E64043B-2FC8-499C-9671-C239941C721A-330-000000AFA7D4B87B_zps9ce7b87c.jpg
 
Mar 10, 2013 at 5:15 PM Post #6 of 20
Can't offer much help with removing that part. In any case, they look to be in very good condition, and it's a pleasure to see how much trouble Beyer went through to protect the driver (the little removable net thing on the back of the driver especially). Also, my pair has light skin-colored nylon material where you have grey.
 
Mar 10, 2013 at 6:19 PM Post #7 of 20
They are in pretty good condition. Other than the pads which I had to restuff, they are actually in better condition than my DT770 pro 80 ohm set that is only 6 years old. Regardless, one side has the grey net kinda messed up and maybe stained. I wanted to straighten it out and maybe even replace it with another color.
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I don't really like the cable either, so I might recable it and put plugs into each side to make future changes simple.
 
 
Mar 10, 2013 at 11:43 PM Post #8 of 20
OK, since I popped them apart for the photos I decided to try one more time. I heated them with a heat lamp until I noticed the housing starting to try to warp (30 minutes at 18 inches away). I turned off the heat and let it sit for a minute and then popped that bottom piece off no problem. Now to the fabric store!

Contemplating custom pads on these too.
 
 
Mar 11, 2013 at 11:52 AM Post #9 of 20
Photos of disassembly and reassembly at this point would be VERY welcome - it's a great vintage headphone and I'm sure for many it would be a great resource to add to the ever-deepening coffers of wisdom.
 
Mar 11, 2013 at 11:50 PM Post #10 of 20
The Plastic plate with the driver comes out fairly easily with a small flat head screw driver. There are small gaps to wedge the blade in and start prying up the plate. This job goes MUCH easier if you pop the head band off of each cup as you work on it. I got the driver assembly plate out in about 90 seconds, so it should not be tough. Add some heat from a hair dryer or heat lamp or something for a few minutes if you have trouble.
 
The next layer is pictured below. You only need to take this ring out if you want to clean the whole thing/ replace the fabric liner for the vents. I had the worst time trying to get this ring out and I was almost certain that I was going to break something in the process. In fact, I made some light damage to one of the vent slats and actually broke one of my small screw drivers. Keep reading for advice on how to avoid that.
 

 
Below is the heat lamp setup I used. I used it in the kitchen because I hate my counters and I would not have been sad to see them melt/ burn. I sat the heat lamp in front of each for about 27 minutes (30 minutes was too long) before working on it. They cool off pretty quickly, so you may have to reheat it if you are too slow.
 

 
I had to find the only gap in retaining ledges where I could wedge a super small screw driver. I popped it up a little, just over the ledge, then I pressed on the ring from the outside through the vent slats. This is where I made a mistake. I used a screw driver with a shaft wider than the slat opening. I would use something like a popsicle stick instead.
 
Here I am starting to pry up the ring and run my tool (from my nail kit. I don't know what it is but it worked pretty good.) around the ring where it meets the can. Avoid overusing the screw driver on this, I scratched up the inside pretty good during this process before I starting using the flatter tool. I had to pry the ring from under the retaining ledge on the second retainer. I would do at least one of the lower retainers either first or second so that you can simply bend the ring and wiggle it out from the other two retainers.
 

 

 
All broken down. Got that pesky dirty grey fabric out, too!
 

 
I decided to add some flair and went to the fabric store to replace the grey stuff. I found some grey stuff but not the same hue, so I decided to just change colors. I got basically the same fabric but in red. The type of fabric is called "Jet" something and I got it at Joann Fabric. I used the inner cup as a stencil and cut rings. Then, I decided I was sick of looking at the metal barrier to the driver, so I used the driver assembly ring as another stencil and slipped that fabric on top of the black felt ring and then fastened the headphone pads over that. I did not want to glue it and it looks ok, but I will figure out something more permanent later.
 

 
Next I will beef up the head band, look at some brown leather options for custom pads, and then recable it with custom detachable cables. Also, cleaning it out, adding the fabric, and letting them get a few hours of use has really brought this things back to life; they sound great. I like them way more than my DT770/80 now. The sounds are a lot less dimensional than that pair though.
 
Mar 12, 2013 at 4:59 AM Post #11 of 20
Mar 12, 2013 at 8:59 AM Post #12 of 20
Quote:
 
Next I will beef up the head band, look at some brown leather options for custom pads

 
It may be useful to find out if leather works as a pad material to begin with before you spend too much money. Beyer used pleather pads on the vintage DT 880 but seemingly cloth for the DT 990, for which there probably was a reason. I've personally found that pads change the sound dramatically on these phones. The modern velour pads, for instance, completely ruin it.
 
I got some pleather HM5 pads in the mail today, I'll see about testing them on the DT 990 and how they measure.
 
Mar 12, 2013 at 12:39 PM Post #13 of 20
Quote:
 
Next I will beef up the head band, look at some brown leather options for custom pads......

I'm using two layers of thick black leather (glued back to back in a curve) for my headband. It makes a nice difference as my original headband was so floppy I always had to adjust it before putting it on my head. 
The new thicker headband keeps its curve shape, as that's how the glue set.
 
I just use discarded leather samples from a large furniture shop. They're quite big sheets of thick sofa leather. A pretty good source for DIYers. 
 
Mar 12, 2013 at 3:30 PM Post #14 of 20
Tried the pleather HM5 pads on the DT 990. Not a good match as such - tons of extra bass into a hump around 200 Hz, ew. Elsewhere in the spectrum pretty decent, though, maybe even better than stock. So if you go leather, probably want to try and not have the pads seal completely or whatever.
 
Mar 12, 2013 at 5:50 PM Post #15 of 20
The stuffing material makes a huge difference as well. When I switched the stock pads from nasty old foam to poly fill, the sound became very neutral; the bass went way down and the mid way up and the highs stayed about the same. I will try leather and use poly fill. I will also pierce holes in the back like the velour DT770 pads if they don't sound good at first.

Thanks for the tip on the remnants, I had not thought of that.
 
Now I need to see about learning to sew leather.
 
 

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