[r8833]

Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif I want to have the polar opposite to the Buffalo32; in that I would like there to be not only no oversampling or upsampling, but also no reclocking. or have you guys found that to be a good thing, rather than the jitter being embedded further into the signal and surfacing elsewhere??

Once you get your valab modded Can you share your observations on how it compares to the sound of the Buffalo32..I am thinking about getting a Buffalo32

 

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[qusp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by r8833 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Once you get your valab modded Can you share your observations on how it compares to the sound of the Buffalo32..I am thinking about getting a Buffalo32

for sure, may be a little while as I will likely do this incrementally so I can listen for the changes each mod brings; or at least break it up into a few groups. i'll upgrade the hookup wire, I/V resistors, input/output jacks and input and output coupling caps straight away though in one go.

anyone else doing battery power on this thing??

I do recommend the Buffalo32; I most certainly am NOT looking to replace that, I just get sick of seeing all those premium parts sitting around and this looks/sounds like a perfect project for the duelunds in particular and also for testing single ended cables. I some of the mods will be less than ideal due to wanting to keep leads intact etc as some of the parts I will probably migrate to something else at some point. because putting all that stuff in, there is no way I would get even close to the money back if I leave them in a sell the valab. the Duelunds in particular are an investment that must be preserved as well as possible, although with those i'll probably trim the leads right back and wire them up with Duelund silver foil in silk hookup wire.

i'm actually really quite excited

 

[marcelnl]

I'm pondering about battery power, actually have been looking for ESR specs on Lithium Poly batteries as those seem capable of whopping currents without breaking a sweat.

Know from experience what a battery powered negative bias can do in a tube DAC output stage, so my direction will be towards battery PSU, I/V resistor upgrades, cabling upgrades (silver silk or silver cotton) and some nickel core output trannies.

 

[kamaths]

Talking of PSU upgrade, where can one order a teradak Dc 30 unit for valab nos Dac upgrade? Thanks in advance

 

[r8833]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kamaths /img/forum/go_quote.gif Talking of PSU upgrade, where can one order a teradak Dc 30 unit for valab nos Dac upgrade? Thanks in advance

Google teradak dac , you'll find a windows live page with email address

 

[kamaths]

Thanks. I found the windows live page, but did not know that I have to communicate using the email address at the bottom. Will do that today.

 

[MikeW]

I just wanted to follow up on how my cap mod turned out. it's got a good 300+ hrs now. I compared it to my older unmodded valab. It's in another league altogether really, I compared 3 of my sources yesterday, my Oppo 980H analog output, followed by the unmodded Valab 2.1 dac, then finally my modded Luxery model. The Oppo sounded really aweful, there was a big upgrade going from the oppo to the 2.1 dac, and almost as large of an upgrade going from the 2.1 dac to the modded version. With the oppo being "Lo-fi" the 2.1 dac being "mid-fi" and the modded luxery being somthing more, I could say "Hi-Fi" but I've not heard any truely high end dacs to compare it to, the best dac i've owned to date was the Channel Islands VDA-2 + VAC1 PSU. Going from memory i'd place this modded dac in that area of performance, but I don't think it tops it, the VDA-2 has a magical texture and realness to it that's hard to beat. Keep in mind this is with a simple output capacitor mod only, and the VDA-2 combo is about 800$. There is a negative though, it's specific to the Sonicraft capacitors, while clearly better then the stock capacitors these caps are quite bright in my setup, some of that is because it's headphones. Im not sure the caps themselves are particularly bright, but perhaps just very transparent-neutral, and it's allowing the brightness to come thru. It's unfortunatly quite unpleasant, which leaves you in a strange position, hearing somthing so much better then Stock and yet still being unsatisfied, you can't go back and you can't stay. For now i've resorted to using a high quality software EQ and i've been quite satisfied, iv'e had to reduce the high's dramatically though, to the tune of about -8DB in the 5khz - 11khz range. My next step is going to be trying a Sonicraft GEN 2 bypass capacitor to see if that tames the high's a bit. If that does not work I may replace the Sonicraft altogether, it's a hard choice being so space limited though.

 

[PatOMalley]

Mike,

I heard that bypassing with the GenIIs will gentle the GenIs.
But you could always drop the spec to 4.7 ... tempting init?

 

[qusp]

well my VALAB DAC (version 2.1) arrived today, but looks like my hopes of listening to it totally stock first so I could get to know the sound a little before modding it, so I could hear each step of the way have been dashed. I had hoped that the transformer and power supply might be rated for use in australia (240v) and simply have to change the cable, but the transformer is only rated for 110v at 50/60hz. cable would not have been an issue as I have a power conditioner with US inserts, but it is still 240v. so looks like i'm going to have to do the DC mod first before I can even turn it on, either using my spare Triad LLP PSU or a spare twisted pear LCDPS module for AC/DC conversion. perhaps the LCDPS AND LLP, so I can have better isolation between analogue and digital power supplies. the LCDPS alows me to set 2 separate voltages, so could just use that

its so small!!, I knew it was going to be compact, but I thought it would be bigger than this. looks like i'll be doing the caps and output in a hammond that sits on top. the duelunds might fit, but I doubt it very much. will initially just bypass the stock caps with Mundorf SIO .68uf and some caddock for I/V as well as play with hookup wiring then i'll blackgate the hell out of it

or I was thinking perhaps sanyo SP and SEPC oscons, which I have found to be VERY good caps indeed. I have some NXHQ blackgates here anyway, so will see which sounds best to me.

thing is I dont want to get distracted from finishing casing up my Buffalo32 yet, so close there that I really should just pack the VALAB away for the rest of the week and get it done.

 

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[repeet]

The transformer is the same on the 240v as the 120v model. There is a jumper on the pcb that sets the voltage for Aus 240v. Was also concerned when I received mine earlier this year. I also live in Brisbane.
(Did you specify 220v model when you ordered it?)

My mods are the dc-30 power supply, SSOM mod, Obligato 4.7uF with .22uF bypass output caps and 390r Takman metal resistors as well as Dir 9001. Only have about 5 hours since modified but so far sounds great.

 

[qusp]

no, its not new, I bought it used from the US and the transformer itself, only has markings for 110v it is the early march 2009 model, not the latest model. so I will not wantonly double the rated voltage, regardless of what the seller might say. I was going to use an external PSU anyway to give myself room, but wanted to hear it totally stock first, as the PSU I will be using is superior to even the deluxe model

have you bypassed the dir9001?? I cant see clearly as the pic is blurry

 

[repeet]

Here is the DIR9001 mod.

Looking at photos and following the traces from the jumper point, It looks like they put the two primary coils on the transformer in series for 220v.

Picasa Web Albums - Bill - Valab Teradac...

My Valab is also the March 2009 model and the transformer was marked as being 120v. I'm pretty sure if you just change the soldered links as shown in my previous post, it will convert it to 220v. I will take a photo of the underside of the pcb in case there is anything different under the board as well.