Nemo de Monet
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2008
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Yeah, I know the idea of powering a headphone amp off of 5V USB power gets asked all the time, and is inevitably shot down by everyone as useless and impractical. Thing is, I don't necessarily think it is useless. Oh, sure, you can't power even the tiniest tube amp off of USB power, and 5V isn't a really useful voltage even for solid-state amps. That said, a DC-DC boost converter will give you, starting with a USB port's 5V, an usefully high voltage at a few dozen milliamps. Maybe not enough to power a tricked-out Pimeta, but enough to run a fair number of less power-hungry amps, like the Mini^3, just as one example.
I did some looking around, and settled on the Texas Instruments TPS61040/TPS61041 devices, primarily because they come in a five-leg SOT-23 package that can be soldered fairly easily by hobbyists. The datasheet includes a couple of reference designs - including one that produces 18VDC output from an input between 2V and 6V DC. See where I'm going with this?
At 80% efficiency - which the reference design achieves - 5VDC in at 100ma will get you 18VDC out at about 22ma - enough to power, and optionally charge, an extended-runtime Mini^3, or power most CMoy designs. If you were to run the design from a powered hub, capable of providing a true 500ma at 5VDC, you could get a maximum of right around 100ma output at 18VDC - more than enough for most portable, solid-state headphone amps.
Yes, the whole doohickey is a switching power supply, and undoubtedly produces an output voltage of less-than-audiophile-perfection. Given that there are things you can do to minimize the ripple and noise - and given the quite high PSRR of most op-amps - I don't think this really an issue for any but the obstinate purists. Further, I suspect that most people are willing to compromise theoretical, on-paper quality for real-world convenience.
By using 0805 and larger SMDs, and a B-type USB jack, the whole thing can be made to fit in a 24 x 35mm space (as wide and tall as, but a fair bit shorter than, a single 9V battery):
(Ignore the silkscreen problem, doh.) I deliberately used a large, though common, inductor on this prototype to allow flexibility - with a little creative effort, a number of physically smaller inductors should be able to fit the pads. There are also wirepads to easily accept input from a non-USB source - if you wanted to recycle an old 5.5V cellphone charger, for example, you could easily wire up a power jack, or whatever. Total parts cost, excluding PCB, is probably under $10 USD ($2 IC, $2 inductor, $0.50 diode, five resistors or capacitors at a total of $2.50 or less, USB connector at $2 or so).
I should have a prototype board in a couple weeks, and then I'll see whether USB power really is as viable, within limitations, for powering small headphone amps as I suspect it is.
Thoughts, observations, criticisms?
I did some looking around, and settled on the Texas Instruments TPS61040/TPS61041 devices, primarily because they come in a five-leg SOT-23 package that can be soldered fairly easily by hobbyists. The datasheet includes a couple of reference designs - including one that produces 18VDC output from an input between 2V and 6V DC. See where I'm going with this?
At 80% efficiency - which the reference design achieves - 5VDC in at 100ma will get you 18VDC out at about 22ma - enough to power, and optionally charge, an extended-runtime Mini^3, or power most CMoy designs. If you were to run the design from a powered hub, capable of providing a true 500ma at 5VDC, you could get a maximum of right around 100ma output at 18VDC - more than enough for most portable, solid-state headphone amps.
Yes, the whole doohickey is a switching power supply, and undoubtedly produces an output voltage of less-than-audiophile-perfection. Given that there are things you can do to minimize the ripple and noise - and given the quite high PSRR of most op-amps - I don't think this really an issue for any but the obstinate purists. Further, I suspect that most people are willing to compromise theoretical, on-paper quality for real-world convenience.
By using 0805 and larger SMDs, and a B-type USB jack, the whole thing can be made to fit in a 24 x 35mm space (as wide and tall as, but a fair bit shorter than, a single 9V battery):
(Ignore the silkscreen problem, doh.) I deliberately used a large, though common, inductor on this prototype to allow flexibility - with a little creative effort, a number of physically smaller inductors should be able to fit the pads. There are also wirepads to easily accept input from a non-USB source - if you wanted to recycle an old 5.5V cellphone charger, for example, you could easily wire up a power jack, or whatever. Total parts cost, excluding PCB, is probably under $10 USD ($2 IC, $2 inductor, $0.50 diode, five resistors or capacitors at a total of $2.50 or less, USB connector at $2 or so).
I should have a prototype board in a couple weeks, and then I'll see whether USB power really is as viable, within limitations, for powering small headphone amps as I suspect it is.
Thoughts, observations, criticisms?