Turning HD518 into HD598.. Help?..
Jan 23, 2013 at 8:52 PM Post #16 of 22
I was able to contact Sennheiser today regarding parts.  The drivers for the HD-558 actually have two part numbers that are off by one digit.  There is a driver for the Left, and another for the Right.  The cost was just a few cents over $41.00 for each driver.  Shipping was a flat $6.50, based on any number of components ordered.  The drivers are out of stock in the U,S. until sometime in late-February.  I wasn't 100% set on replacing the drivers in my HD-555 at this time, so that wasn't a biggie.  I did order new ear pads for about $27.00, with shipping included.  Buyers in New York, California and I believe, Illinois will pay tax on their purchase.
 
As to the $41.00 cost per driver, plus shipping, I can look at this in a few ways.
 
  1. When I was buying the Magnum drivers for the Grado headphones, I was dropping about $130 - $140 for a pair of drivers at the time.  Are both comparable?  I'm not sure.  I'd have to measure both again, to check the sizes.  I think the Sennheiser price is actually pretty good.  Grado doesn't sell drivers, so you have to go with the Magnums, or buy used drivers off the forum if you need them.
  2. When you add up the driver costs from Sennheiser, plus a pair of ear pads, it gets you up near $110.00. However, on Amazon, you can get Sennheiser HD-558 headphones that were returns for about $115.00 and $6.00 for shipping.  This provides nearly new head pieces, cups, cable, pads, headband and the drivers for the cost.  So, it might be better to keep the former Sennheiser running the existing drivers and add a pair of HD-558s to your collection, if you so desire.
 
Enjoy!
 
Apr 14, 2013 at 8:07 AM Post #17 of 22
Are you people very sure that HD 518/558/598 uses very same driver?
 
If so why the hell they ripping us off to pay 200-240$ (currently) for hd598 I can easily mode them and get what I want  
angry_face.gif

 
Jul 31, 2013 at 7:37 PM Post #19 of 22
Greetings friends! I discovered something interesting playing with mg HD518, HD598 and PC360D's. Removing the pads on the 518 I noticed they are flat-topped in profile. The pads on the 598 and PC360D are round in profile and notably softer. Putting the rounded pads on the 518 gave them a sound much closer to the 598, without all that "euro-beige-ness".:D Happy modding! -Manfred
 
Mar 21, 2014 at 5:28 PM Post #20 of 22
The HD518, in my experience of high gear and ****, are diffidently on the bottom of the food chain and nowhere near any of the sets I listed. However; modding the grill and rewiring seems to make it sound almost identicle to the HD 598. I have modded the grill of the HD518, along with other things. I replaced the grill with an open mesh grill, replaced the pads, replaced the band cushion, and rewired. Maybe you guys can try it out.
 
I edited my post because it turned into a review other than a relevant post. Hehe... get too carried away.
 
Jun 2, 2014 at 2:38 AM Post #22 of 22
  DannyRox23, how about some pictures of your HD 518 modifications?  In particular how you modded the grill?

I really wish I can do that, but they're long gone in the trash. I did state that I owned them, and not own. Sorry... they were my very first pair of Sennheiser headphones. Long gone, they went. Loved those old things. Hm... however, I can describe how I did it.
 
ABOUT
This mod will open the HD 518(improvement in soundstage and less muddy bass. this should make it sound almost similar to the HD 598)
 
TOOLS/REQUIREMENTS
  1. Soldering Gun
  2. Mesh (has to be protective enough. needs to be very thin, though. thin enough to give much air for sound waves to escape the back end of the driver. this mesh will be used as a more opened grill) I used a speaker grill that I had protecting my subs. You can also buy the HD558 grills from Sennheiser for around $18! That will make the soldering gun useless to have.
  3. Something sharp to cut the mesh that you prefer.
  4. Screwdriver big enough to unscrew the housing from the can.
  5. Hot glue gun.
  6. Pliers that can tear through the plastic.
 
INSTRUCTIONS
  • Open up the housing with your screwdriver.
  • Use the soldering gun to un-wire the driver from the can. You also gotta un-wire the wire from the green PCB board. Use the pliers to cut around the wire, allowing it to break free.
  • The back grill of the can should pop out. At least that's how I remembered it. I think I pushed it inward or outward to pop it off. As soon as you take it off, I'm pretty sure you can use it just like that, but you need a grill to protect it.
  • Cut out the shape of the grill, but a little bigger(so it doesn't fall off, dangling inside the can.) You can use the headphone grill as a trace or something.
  • Place the grill in, and hot glue it onto the can.
  • Put the headphone back together! THERE YOU GO!
 
That's how I did it, but I'm not sure. It was a long time ago, when I did it and owned them.
 

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