Tube amp for hot little apartment - bad idea?
Dec 25, 2015 at 10:11 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 8

hbuus

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I keep seeing people who recommend using a tube amp with Sennheiser HD700, however my small apartment is very well insulated and it gets hot in here quickly.
Since I'm likely to have the tube amp turned on all day, I'm worried if the extra heat will be a problem.
What do you guys think?
Are there any tube amps that perhaps gets less hot than others?
 
Dec 25, 2015 at 11:06 AM Post #2 of 8
I wouldn't worry too much about it. Anything constantly plugged in and in use will give off some heat, but a headphone amp typically won't generate much. Some amps will be warm or hot to touch, but it's not enough to heat up a room. Amps for full size speakers, though, can definitely warm up a room. Just turn off the headphone amp when it is not being used, and heat should not be an issue. Some solid state (non-tube) headphone amps can also radiate some heat, so don't necessarily expect them to always run cooler.
 
Dec 25, 2015 at 12:51 PM Post #3 of 8
The tubes get hot, but it doesn't have active cooling so it can just retain it's energy and not dissipate much of it into your room, as opposed to something like a computer with a fan which constantly dissipates heat into your room. If the tube is inside an enclosure so that it can retain its heat more effectively, and any air flow in your room does not pass over the tube and draw heat from it, that would be better. If your tube doesn't come with one, and you are very obsessive about not wasting any of its heat energy, you could probably get a heat shield for it.
 
Dec 25, 2015 at 1:49 PM Post #4 of 8
I think the opposite is the concern.  Heat sinks and heat transfer design are all predicated on an assumption of the Delta T available (temperature difference).  The heat flow (rejection) is directly proportional to that temperature difference with conduction and convection, the primary forms of heat transfer available to our small amplifiers.  If the ambient is only a few degrees higher, it can mean the difference between whether a component inside the amp is exposed to damaging high temperatures or not.
 
Your amplifier may fail long before it has enough effect to add heat to a room.
 
Dec 26, 2015 at 12:34 PM Post #6 of 8
  Heat is the enemy of tube longevity. I would not advise trying to "help a tube retain more of it's heat energy". It will die faster if you do.

What makes you say that? Heat is probably the reason tubes are unreliable and fail, but they have to be hot in order to function at all. I have guitar amps with shields over some of the tubes. It might be mostly for EMI, but it would also hold in some heat.
 
Dec 26, 2015 at 1:51 PM Post #7 of 8
Cathodes need to be hot in order to provide the function that they are supposed to perform. The getter flash on the glass envelope also benefits from some heat.
 
Outside of these, every other element in the tube only suffers from heat.
 
The main culprit is heat expansion of materials. This causes the elements to change their alignments when subjected to many heat cycles. Sometimes you can even hear thru the headphones a 'ping' sound of expanding metal when the tube is heating up. That's a element, such as a support rod for a grid or the plate, expanding from heat, and moving.
 
That's not good. The performance of the tube is highly contingent on the internal geometry. That's why "special quality" tubes have double mica supports to keep the electrodes firmly in place. Sometimes even tripla mica supports.
 
Some special material tubes (usually transmitting tubes) can get by without mica spacers. They also employ special glass that doesn't expand when subjected to heat; cleverly named Nonex glass.
 
That's another fail point; the glass - base pins seal. The pins are made of metal that expands at a different rate than the surrounding glass. When subjected to repeated heating and cooling, the seal is weakened, and some gasses get inside the tube. They bind to the elements and in time disrupt their operation.
 
Most tubes get by with passive open air cooling. Some military and industrial tubes can be reliably used in closed air for long times. Some transmitting triodes specify forced air cooling for reliable use.
 
Heat is the enemy of tube longevity. Since it is required for the cathode, it must be dealt with. However in no way would I recommend making the heat dissipation weaker.
 
The metal shields are for noise prevention in high gain circuits. Not needed in HIFI in most cases. The fact they hinder heat dissipation, is a necessary evil, it was never a feature.
 
Dec 27, 2015 at 10:24 PM Post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by hbuus /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I keep seeing people who recommend using a tube amp with Sennheiser HD700, however my small apartment is very well insulated and it gets hot in here quickly.
Since I'm likely to have the tube amp turned on all day, I'm worried if the extra heat will be a problem.
What do you guys think?
Are there any tube amps that perhaps gets less hot than others?

 
I'd be more worried about listening when it's that hot in the apartment. You try to listen with headphones, you have to use active cooling like a fan or A/C, that will increase the noise floor which will be very audible through open headphones.
 
Why not just switch the amp off when not in use, then just power them on half an hour before you start listening at night? It's not like you won't need to shower or maybe even eat or do other things when you get home. As long as you get a reasonably modern design with a good heating system installed, half an hour should be enough warm up time for the tube.
 
When you're home all day it's not likely to be critical listening the whole time, especially at the hottest part of the day, so you can't really do much about the need for active cooling, but otherwise go with the above routine.
 

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