[Sunstealer]

Have you checked the nozzle filter - is it retaining moisture? If you leave it alone for a couple of days, is it better again?

 

[lamajido]

So, it's need to be in right position, if i move a little bit then the problem come again, then become worse and worse until not only become quiter but no sound at all.

The cable is actually having the same problem when I'm using it with my tin t2. It's weird that, my original tin t2 cable last for around 8 months with my abusive usage (put in my pocket, getting sleep on, etc) and my diy tin t2 cable replacement didn't have problem until i tried it with tri i3 which already with 4th cable in around 4 months.

Is it possible the cable getting shorted because of sweat, hair or something?






Maybe i'm just having super bad luck with the cable.

 

[Sunstealer]

So, it's need to be in right position, if i move a little bit then the problem come again, then become worse and worse until not only become quiter but no sound at all.

The cable is actually having the same problem when I'm using it with my tin t2. It's weird that, my original tin t2 cable last for around 8 months with my abusive usage (put in my pocket, getting sleep on, etc) and my diy tin t2 cable replacement didn't have problem until i tried it with tri i3 which already with 4th cable in around 4 months.

Is it possible the cable getting shorted because of sweat, hair or something?






Maybe i'm just having super bad luck with the cable.

Usually a cable short is binary: you get sound or you don't. The MMCX connectors may be dirty - give them a gentle clean with some isopropyl alcohol and let them fully dry before trying again.

 

[lamajido]

Usually a cable short is binary: you get sound or you don't. The MMCX connectors may be dirty - give them a gentle clean with some isopropyl alcohol and let them fully dry before trying again.

Wait a minute. Tried it with my tin t2 cable and It works. Now it works flawlessly even i move the connector around.

Months of problem and i can't believe there's simple solution. Feeling so stupid right now.

Would try with my other cable at home.

Thanks a lot.

 

[ChrisOc]

He referenced my simple Starlight review on Hifigo lol

Even though I got the Starlight in the 11.11 sale, I still think this IEM punches above its price point at MSRP. I’m talking $1 to $2k price range and maybe even some IEMs beyond that price range. Again, that’s my opinion only, these are hard to drive so people really need to try these with high powered source to reach its full potential!

I agree with you and I think Zeos is in effect saying (at 15.36) that he does not think that those higher priced IEMs are competing with the Starlights because they are not doing what they Starlights do, "all singing and all dancing". In my view, IEMs in the higher price range are specialists and the Starlights to Zeos are the equivalent of the Argons, in his words (effectively your words) "they are like Argons, they are super wide, they have the bass and they are impossible to drive."

Frankly, I think they are worth every penny and no doubt compete well above their price.

Giving them power as @eclein and @baskingshark have said it is not about how loud you can get the IEMs, it is about getting a lot more out of your IEMs, stage, depth, finer details, dynamics...etc.

That is not to say that you will not be able to appreciate some of the qualities of the Starlights or the Believe, or indeed any other IEMs which benefit from more power. It simply means you get MORE of or ALL of the qualities the IEMs have to offer. I can get some good fun from the Starlights and Believe using the BTR5 (which is so practical that I can get on with life and still listen to good music) so I do not need to be tethered to a fixed amplifier to appreciate them. When you do get to sit and listen using good amplification you appreciate what you paid good money for.

 

[laleeee]

KBEAR Believe and TRI I3 are hard to drive for an IEM (compared to other IEMs), but they ain't the most power hungry. I would say the Final Audio E5000 hands down for me is one of the hardest IEMs to drive. Tin P1 is probably hard to drive too as it is a pure planar (based on reviews as I've not heard it myself).

For Sonata HD Pro, if u trick it using a 3.5 mm female to male adapter (so that is goes to highest output), it can just barely drive the TRI I3 satisfactorily. But it would still sound better with something with more power. Forget about driving the KBEAR BElieve with the Sonata HD Pro, most dongles can't drive it, maybe with the exception of some outlier dongles like the 9038S.

Amping as you pointed out, is not a matter of just loud enough, as one can easily just connect a planar type IEM/headphone to a smartphone and just jack up the volume to blast the volume. But more that one loses dynamics, perhaps soundstage/microdetails without proper amping for said power hungry gear. Sometimes the frequency response is also skewed without adequate power, for example and IEM may have very muddy bass or too shouty upper mids when inadequately powered.

There's an alternative school of thought that IEMs should be portable (compared to headphones), so they feel it defeats the purpose of bringing a big amp stack or using it at home with a desktop amp. Those should be reserved for headphones? Fair enough, then best to look elsewhere for less power hungry IEMs, of which they are the majority, compared to power hungry IEMs.

But then again, getting an amp/good DAP is probably a one time investment (for the next few months at least) as we progress further down this rabbithole hobby. Sources may end up being the limiting factor in the audio chain sooner or later, and I feel spending on a good source is more worthwhile then spending tons on cables for sure. Getting a good amp/DAP will also be future proofing as we can unlock other gear that have high requirements. I mean if it were a sub $20 set like the recent BLON BL-01 (which is aiming for a different market segment) and someone told me I need an amp to unlock the BL-01’s potential, I would ask them to fly a kite. But a lot of other IEMs such as the HZSound Heart Mirror, Final E series (Final E3000, Final E5000) and even the more expensive full beryllium Final A8000 are not the easiest to drive, and need amping to scale to their optimal sound to get audio ni195

KBEAR Believe and TRI I3 are hard to drive for an IEM (compared to other IEMs), but they ain't the most power hungry. I would say the Final Audio E5000 hands down for me is one of the hardest IEMs to drive. Tin P1 is probably hard to drive too as it is a pure planar (based on reviews as I've not heard it myself).

For Sonata HD Pro, if u trick it using a 3.5 mm female to male adapter (so that is goes to highest output), it can just barely drive the TRI I3 satisfactorily. But it would still sound better with something with more power. Forget about driving the KBEAR BElieve with the Sonata HD Pro, most dongles can't drive it, maybe with the exception of some outlier dongles like the 9038S.

Amping as you pointed out, is not a matter of just loud enough, as one can easily just connect a planar type IEM/headphone to a smartphone and just jack up the volume to blast the volume. But more that one loses dynamics, perhaps soundstage/microdetails without proper amping for said power hungry gear. Sometimes the frequency response is also skewed without adequate power, for example and IEM may have very muddy bass or too shouty upper mids when inadequately powered.

There's an alternative school of thought that IEMs should be portable (compared to headphones), so they feel it defeats the purpose of bringing a big amp stack or using it at home with a desktop amp. Those should be reserved for headphones? Fair enough, then best to look elsewhere for less power hungry IEMs, of which they are the majority, compared to power hungry IEMs.

But then again, getting an amp/good DAP is probably a one time investment (for the next few months at least) as we progress further down this rabbithole hobby. Sources may end up being the limiting factor in the audio chain sooner or later, and I feel spending on a good source is more worthwhile then spending tons on cables for sure. Getting a good amp/DAP will also be future proofing as we can unlock other gear that have high requirements. I mean if it were a sub $20 set like the recent BLON BL-01 (which is aiming for a different market segment) and someone told me I need an amp to unlock the BL-01’s potential, I would ask them to fly a kite. But a lot of other IEMs such as the HZSound Heart Mirror, Final E series (Final E3000, Final E5000) and even the more expensive full beryllium Final A8000 are not the easiest to drive, and need amping to scale to their optimal sound to get audio nirvana.

195mWatt output power enough to drive the TRI I3 ?

 

[ChrisOc]

195mWatt output power enough to drive the TRI I3 ?

It is fine, but also consider the Fiio BTR5, Shanling UP4 etc. for portable or FX Audio gear for fixed use (desktop) below. Cheap and cheerful but is quite powerful:

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Check out the link and decide.

P.S. I had no idea AliExpress was pushing their coupons in their links.

 

[ChrisOc]

Check out the picture on KBEAR Facebook page. Is this the new TRI Electrostatic earphone?

A NEW STAR!

 

[LoryWiv]

It is fine, but also consider the Fiio BTR5, Shanling UP4 etc. for portable or FX Audio gear for fixed use (desktop) below. Cheap and cheerful but is quite powerful:

I use FiiO BTR5 (240 mW in balanced mode) and TRI I3 sounds great!

 

[laleeee]

Check out the picture on KBEAR Facebook page. Is this the new TRI Electrostatic earphone?

A NEW STAR!

What picture ?
https://www.facebook.com/kbearofficial1/

 

[ChrisOc]

What picture ?
https://www.facebook.com/kbearofficial1/

This is it!

 

[ChrisOc]

I use FiiO BTR5 (240 mW in balanced mode) and TRI I3 sounds great!

I use the BTR5 as well and I also think it is great with the TRI I3. It is incredibly practical and sounds brilliant to my ears. The only thing I asked Fiio if they would improve is to add a slightly bigger battery and add bass boost, so that bass is only added/reduced if required. The Bluetooth range is good but could also be improved......but none of these take away from an excellent product in the BTR5!

However, as we all know, most IEMs open up a bit more (some a lot more) with more power and on that point having a (an inexpensive) dac/amp is helpful.

 

[laleeee]

I use the BTR5 as well and I also think it is great with the TRI I3. It is incredibly practical and sounds brilliant to my ears. The only thing I asked Fiio if they would improve is to add a slightly bigger battery and add bass boost, so that bass is only added/reduced if required. The Bluetooth range is good but could also be improved......but none of these take away from an excellent product in the BTR5!

However, as we all know, most IEMs open up a bit more (some a lot more) with more power and on that point having a (an inexpensive) dac/amp is helpful.

I use my I3 with an E1da 9038s but it's a neutral DAC , that's why I ordered an ibasso DCO4 dongle which has only 195mW output, but maybe a warmer and bassier source.

 

[chifihead]

For Sonata HD Pro, if u trick it using a 3.5 mm female to male adapter (so that is goes to highest output), it can just barely drive the TRI I3 satisfactorily. But it would still sound better with something with more power. Forget about driving the KBEAR BElieve with the Sonata HD Pro, most dongles can't drive it, maybe with the exception of some outlier dongles like the 9038S.

Wow.. Yikes!

I just checked the specs of the 9038S and it does 340mw @ 32ohm.. Amazing that an IEM needs that much power!

 

[WendyLi]

Feel tired and sleepy sometime? Take this song and get your passion back!!!
----"Hawk Nelson - Sold Out (Official Lyric Video)"

Link: