Topping D30 DSD DAC XMOS/CS4398
Apr 30, 2018 at 4:35 PM Post #377 of 512
i found out that my mainboard has an optical s/pdif out port, how would you connect my
TOPPING D30 DSD? usb or optical?
 
May 14, 2018 at 9:17 AM Post #379 of 512
The latest Windows 10 feature update (April) messed up something with this DAC when connected via USB. Device is getting disconnected, small pauses in music and lag. Reinstalling drivers didn't help, so I'm using SPDIF for now.

Anyone else experiencing issues after the latest big W10 update? (USB only btw)
 
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May 14, 2018 at 7:19 PM Post #380 of 512
The latest Windows 10 feature update (April) messed up something with this DAC when connected via USB. Device is getting disconnected, small pauses in music and lag. Reinstalling drivers didn't help, so I'm using SPDIF for now.

Anyone else experiencing issues after the latest big W10 update? (USB only btw)

I got my DAC in april, haven't had any of those issues you described. Mine works perfectly.
 
May 14, 2018 at 8:16 PM Post #381 of 512
May 15, 2018 at 9:01 AM Post #382 of 512
The latest Windows 10 feature update (April) messed up something with this DAC when connected via USB. Device is getting disconnected, small pauses in music and lag. Reinstalling drivers didn't help, so I'm using SPDIF for now.

Anyone else experiencing issues after the latest big W10 update? (USB only btw)

Uninstall all audio drivers, then reboot. Then plug the D30 in and it'll automatically install the drivers (do not manually install them). Should fix your issues (I was having issues with Qobuz WASAPI (exclusive) mode).
 
May 15, 2018 at 12:44 PM Post #385 of 512
The D50 is up on Massdrop, what's the bottom-line difference between the two?
Well the DAC chip is different. 768khz sample rate (crazy high) audiosciencereview.com has both tested and reviewed.
 
May 22, 2018 at 2:50 PM Post #386 of 512
I've just purchased one of these pretty cheap, but it seems to be of a different revision (visually it seems equal to the one with the black omron relay), but the revision says this :
d30.png


So it seems that there's V10.0, V10.1 and V10.2, I'm still trying to make a judgement, but I find it a bit bright and lean (compared to a cheap PCM5102A and an old Musical fidelity DAC), the sound is certainly clear, but it lacks body compared to the BB/TI DACs (in the worst case that can be compensated by EQing).

I'll give it more time, although I don't believe in burn in for most electronics and for the money it doesn't break the bank, but I'm tired of piling up stuff that I won't use. By the way, in my unit both leds (power and unlock) are blue, is this normal?, in the first revisions I understand that the unlock led was red.

Also in my unit the board moved quite a bit when operating the switches, instead of using glue, I cut several pieces of thick double sided tape that I fixed to the PCB in strategic places, so It doesn't move any longer.

Regards.
 
May 22, 2018 at 7:25 PM Post #387 of 512
I've just purchased one of these pretty cheap, but it seems to be of a different revision (visually it seems equal to the one with the black omron relay), but the revision says this :
d30.png


So it seems that there's V10.0, V10.1 and V10.2, I'm still trying to make a judgement, but I find it a bit bright and lean (compared to a cheap PCM5102A and an old Musical fidelity DAC), the sound is certainly clear, but it lacks body compared to the BB/TI DACs (in the worst case that can be compensated by EQing).

I'll give it more time, although I don't believe in burn in for most electronics and for the money it doesn't break the bank, but I'm tired of piling up stuff that I won't use. By the way, in my unit both leds (power and unlock) are blue, is this normal?, in the first revisions I understand that the unlock led was red.

Also in my unit the board moved quite a bit when operating the switches, instead of using glue, I cut several pieces of thick double sided tape that I fixed to the PCB in strategic places, so It doesn't move any longer.

Regards.

I got my D30 last month but took it apart to check anything, I got mine off Ebay.

-Mine has white feet on the bottom
-One LED is blue, the other one is red

Moving the switches with my unit doesn't seem to move the board at all, weird how both of your LED's are blue...where did you get it from?

What kind of caps does yours have? I am hoping their are good caps in these...
 
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May 22, 2018 at 10:47 PM Post #388 of 512
I purchased It from Amazon, feet are black and no glue was inside fixing the board in place. Also no pendrive with drivers was in the box.

Apart from that and the two blue leds It works fine.
 
May 22, 2018 at 11:17 PM Post #389 of 512
I purchased It from Amazon, feet are black and no glue was inside fixing the board in place. Also no pendrive with drivers was in the box.

Apart from that and the two blue leds It works fine.

Mine didn't have the pendrive either but I got the drivers on the web anyhow.

It's an excellent DAC for the money, many reviews compare it to much more expensive DACs and can't hear a difference.

I think it would work well with some bookshelf speakers.
 
May 23, 2018 at 1:34 AM Post #390 of 512
Sparkos SS3602 Dual Discrete Op Amp on Toppings D30 -- some impressions & comments
(At this point, it was only evaluated on planar speakers. Some cheapo cans helped me also. However, another person will be getting this same unit to compare directly with his own [still] stock D30and on good cans.)

Several weeks ago I decided that the super-bargain Toppings D30 sounded good enough as to deserve some tweaking effort. If compared on the full performance count, the stock D30 was no match for some of my other DAC options. However, it did give even my best ones a bit of a scare at times. It was, "sweet" and, in a manner of speaking, almost like simply comparing different concert halls (no 2 halls sound exactly the same even with the very same orchestra playing).

Importantly, the stock D30 managed to keep me listening to music for a few hours in a row which, for a $100 DAC unit is amazing. That's even when one may perceive its weaknesses. The stock D30 does not easily offend; those of you who already have it will probably agree. Furthermore, it seemed to have some more SQ upside potential. Intrigued, I went for it -- at least for the low-hanging fruit...an op amp roll of dice.

At about $70US, the Sparkos SS3602 discrete op amp seemed like a natural to try for this. It has the required SQ improvement credentials. In addition, it only needs some extra current -- thereby not taxing the PS section. Finally, it would fit in original case. So, I took the plunge.

The work required to do this was minimal (suitable both for those "in the know" and for those willing to dive in ). Happily, the results were about what was expected vs other playback & DAC options I use (though none are "top-tier"). Before mods, the D30 was often bested by either my old Oppo BDP-83, my Light Harmonic Geek Out 1000 or my Oppo 105.

Yet, after the mods, the Sparkos SS3602 turned the D30 into a little beast that has gained much prowess without losing its original sweet composure. As a result, no single piece of DAC here is always better than it is. At worst, it divides honors more often than not. At best, one knows there are always "wanted things" that it can do better than any.

In the end, this gizmo+gizmo mod can elicit from my small planar speakers not only great sound. Just as "better" DAC units can, it will make my planar speakers sing dynamically (even punching slam where planars are not "supposed" to) and deliver a sumptuously engaging soundscape. It will help to project an ample sound stage that will often deliver 3D element positioning. It will extract from disks and files -- and then deliver -- the SQ differences between DSD and PCM material, and between recording attributes. And, if my cheap cans are to be believed, a lot of this and more may come across decent headphones, as well.

I'll be happy to elaborate if someone needs details. For now here are a few pictures.



Unmodded. Note that my board had Elna electrolytic caps ONLY for the op amp, the other electrolytic caps were cheapo X-Caps or something. This is unlike other D30 I've seen, which have Elna's everywhere. So, I later replaced the cheapo 'lytics - there's just 4 of them. (But these Elna's stayed )
P1040369.JPG


Sizing the Spakos vs the stock opamp on day one. In the end, once finally inserted, the bottom board of the Sparkos wound up resting on the 2 Wima caps.
P1040416.JPG



WP_20180515_01_18_20_Raw.jpg


WP_20180515_01_17_58_Raw.jpg



WP_20180515_01_06_14_Raw.jpg
 

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