[riton66]

I see 2 main differences from the previous pic.
Sorry for the picture quality..

 

[mochi01]

What are the differences?, I really can't find anything at first sight. As I said before I wouldn't worry too much about capacitor brands, but If they are changing values between revisions that's a diferent thing.

I'm still thinking about returning It and going for a Daart Canary, but It would be a blind buy anyway, the D30 sounds very clean but a bit lean/cold compared to my current BB/TI units.

 

[mochi01]

We'll there's at least a definite difference from the 10.2 board and the 11.0, the 10.2 board uses a 64pin XMOS XU208-256-TQ64 while the new revision uses a 48 pin XU208-256-QF48, the only relevant info seems to be that the 64 pin package has more I/O pins that I suppose are unused, for the 48 pin :

· Programmable I/O

27 general-purpose I/O pins, configurable as input or output


— Up to 9 x 1bit port, 2 x 4bit port, 1 x 8bit port

— 1 xCONNECT link

Port sampling rates of up to 60MHz with respect to an external clock

32 channel ends for communication with other cores, on or off-chip

For the 64 pin :

· Programmable I/O

33 general-purpose I/O pins, configurable as input or output


— Up to 9 x 1bit port, 5 x 4bit port, 3 x 8bit port, 1 x 16bit port

— 1 xCONNECT link

Port sampling rates of up to 60MHz with respect to an external clock

32 channel ends for communication with other cores, on or off-chip

 

[riton66]

Yes and the "U3" of the 10.2 is replaced by a serie of "chips" (2nd pic)

 

[mochi01]

Ok, so I just switched from using the USB input and changed to SPDIF for the first time, totally different sound, warmer, larger soundstage, smoother, there's something wrong with the drivers or the USB implementation, otherwise it doesn't make sense, I very much prefer the sound through SPDIF, USB makes my ears almost 'bleed' with bright headphones. Now is as if i'm listening to a completely (better) machine.

 

[mochi01]

It's the XMOS drivers, the 3.34 ones that are recommended in the thread are not right, using the drivers downloaded from the topping website (2.26) makes the sound almost equal switching from spdif to USB (warmer and with a right tonal balance), so I was misjudging the sound, now it is much better, before it was like scratching nails.

 

[TERMiNAL_]

It's the XMOS drivers, the 3.34 ones that are recommended in the thread are not right, using the drivers downloaded from the topping website (2.26) makes the sound almost equal switching from spdif to USB (warmer and with a right tonal balance), so I was misjudging the sound, now it is much better, before it was like scratching nails.

Yes the XMOS driver provided is perfectly fine for the chip inside the D30, no point in ever updating the driver for the D30.

 

[TERMiNAL_]

As I mentioned earlier, here are the caps I used in place of the 4 black "CapXon" 220uF electrolytic ones:
2 Nichicon KA 470uF/25vdc (hndme.com 3-KA-470025R0) for the 2 that are close to the voltage regulators
2 Nichicon KA 330uF/25vdc (hndme.com 3-KA-330025R0) for the 2 elsewhere

These are long-life, high-quality, high-temp (105C) units which fit inside the case. (The Elna's I bought first were too large for this case.)
Like I said before, I've already seen stock D30s with larger-than 220uF caps in those same positions. They did rate these 220uF caps for 105C temps (for longer life), if their labeling is true.

Anyway, at the very least, I would have had to change the ones close to the v regulators. The added power draw of the Sparkos (which runs in class A at times) made it prudent, more so with the case being totally closed. The case does get hotter than before but never past 90F on the outside (room @74F). The Sparkos itself never went over 90F (open air) while playing. However, there are areas on the board that did climb to 104F (open air).

So, if your 4 black caps are 330uF+ you may not need/want to do anything. Then again...every time I've upgraded caps elsewhere -- aside from signal path -- good things happened eventually. More so if the PS components were getting the attention. Unfortunately, I had to ship this D30 unit out before I could give the new caps time.

Thank you for posting the links to those caps, I may upgrade mine someday but for now I have no issues with the D30.

You can get those caps off Ebay too, so it's great for me in Canada.

A lot of people compare the D30 to higher-end DAC's and can't tell the difference, in speakers of course...if you read the reviews on Amazon.

The clarity in the D30 is excellent and is silent when no audio is being played.

I would love to use it with some good bookshelf speakers sometime!

 

[vrajcevski]

Would anybody have a schematic of the d30? I have been using it now for about 6 months, and was working perfectly well - a couple of days ago it simpy stopped mid stream ( I mean the audio out stopped)

Windows still recognizes it, and even shows as if it is playing a test tome through it - so at least the USB part is active and showing signs of life.
I want to do some diagnostics before I go swapping parts - I'll try to claim on warranty, BUT still would be good if we have a diagram or 2 to help with diagnosing. I suspect that the test points will prove very usefyl, provided there is sufficient information on what to expect on each.

Vlad

 

[TERMiNAL_]

Would anybody have a schematic of the d30? I have been using it now for about 6 months, and was working perfectly well - a couple of days ago it simpy stopped mid stream ( I mean the audio out stopped)

Windows still recognizes it, and even shows as if it is playing a test tome through it - so at least the USB part is active and showing signs of life.
I want to do some diagnostics before I go swapping parts - I'll try to claim on warranty, BUT still would be good if we have a diagram or 2 to help with diagnosing. I suspect that the test points will prove very usefyl, provided there is sufficient information on what to expect on each.

Vlad

Hmm too bad about your D30, so far mine is working fine.

I don't think there is a schematic, I can't find one on google...just images of the board.

Maybe try it on another PC first?

 

[vrajcevski]

there is high pitch noise when I crank up the headphone amp - so even though not moded, I may be experiencing some osicilation ( I can hear it so it is under 12 khz - the limit of my hearing ).

No Osciloscope, But I'll measureany DC conditions first - will be fun. Not desoldering anything just yet - will see the response on the warranty first.

I'll definitely check the negative voltage one - assuming I have an oscilating opamp.

 

[TERMiNAL_]

there is high pitch noise when I crank up the headphone amp - so even though not moded, I may be experiencing some osicilation ( I can hear it so it is under 12 khz - the limit of my hearing ).

No Osciloscope, But I'll measureany DC conditions first - will be fun. Not desoldering anything just yet - will see the response on the warranty first.

I'll definitely check the negative voltage one - assuming I have an oscilating opamp.

Does Topping even have a Website? I can't find one.

 

[vrajcevski]

yup. en.tpdz.net

 

[TERMiNAL_]

yup. en.tpdz.net

I can't get to that site, says "this site cannot be reached".

Got it to work, had to flushdns...

 

[vrajcevski]

apologies for my bad typing.

It is Only


en.tpdz.net