[sbyers77]

A few weeks back I was reading up on the Toner Transfer Method for PCB making in planning out a future project. It seemed easy enough; just print the image of your desired circuit on photo-paper using a Laser printer then transfer the toner to a blank PCB using an iron before etching.

In the tutorial it is suggested to do another toner transfer to make component-side artwork (i.e., the "silk-screen") after the board was completed. I thought that made his homemade boards really slick and professional looking - but then I thought why not use this method to label my amp cases?

I gave it a shot on a spare endpanel to see if I could get a decent transfer and it actually turned out okay. This was my first attempt at transferring toner to anything, so that may account for some roughness of the transfer. See image below.

Full-sided image


It's not the greatest transfer, but it does show some promise. The lines were used to see what kind of resolution I could get from the transfer They are simply lines drawn in Publisher with the point size shown on the right (3pt. - 0.25 pt.). I essentially quenched the aluminum in cold water after the transfer at which point the paper started to lift/curl immediately which is probably why the transfer is so splotchy.

Has anyone else experimented using the Toner Transfer Method this way?

 

[dgbiker1]

I've done a wood/inkjet transfer, but never anything on aluminum. That picture looks pretty good though, letters are clean.

 

[jhupka]

That looks really good. How do you think it will hold up to wear? Can you scrape the toner off easily with a fingernail, or do you think it could take the abuse of a portable amp?

 

[Uncle Erik]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhupka /img/forum/go_quote.gif That looks really good. How do you think it will hold up to wear? Can you scrape the toner off easily with a fingernail, or do you think it could take the abuse of a portable amp?

Toner will scrape right off. I'd coat it with lacquer or another clearcoat.

Really nice work there. I'm going to look into this to make label tags for my amps. I've also been thinking about printing on decal paper, but this might be easier and cleaner.

 

[error401]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhupka /img/forum/go_quote.gif That looks really good. How do you think it will hold up to wear? Can you scrape the toner off easily with a fingernail, or do you think it could take the abuse of a portable amp?

Probably fairly well, but not well enough to stand up as a permanent solution. From doing PCBs, it sticks well but can be rubbed off with a bit of fingernail scraping. I'd suggest a matte clearcoat.

 

[sbyers77]

It's actually surprisingly resilient as it holds up to rubbing and scrubbing very well, but it will chip off if you scratch with your fingernail. I am assuming its roughly the same resilience as a PCB transfer (but I've not done one before to verify).

If it were a desktop amp that doesn't see much abuse you could probably get away with no topcoat, but for a portable rig I'd definitely clear coat it.

 

[heatmizer]

Why not make a negative and etch the panel.

 

[sbyers77]

Quote:

Originally Posted by heatmizer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Why not make a negative and etch the panel.

That is certainly a possibility, but I was going for super-easy labeling method that would deliver good looking results.

 

[dBel84]

I used this method to transfer a pattern onto my Cavalli Kumisa and it worked very well. I use Sijosae's technique of using the backing paper from "sticky draw liners" and it leaves a plastic residue over the surface making it fairly durable.

small image I know but I don't have the originals on this pc..dB

 

[sbyers77]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dBel84 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I used this method to transfer a pattern onto my Cavalli Kumisa and it worked very well.

Do you mean the component pattern on the PCB or the words "Cavalli-Kumisa" on the outside of the case?

 

[dBel84]

I should dig up the original image for you

, The top plate has a celtic scroll around the border and around the headphone jack , and yes the Cavalli Kumisa identifier too..dB

(the silk screen on the boards used the same approach)