THORENS TD-166 Mk II
Jun 16, 2008 at 4:06 PM Post #16 of 24
Quote:

Originally Posted by chadbang /img/forum/go_quote.gif
What Rega arm did you put on your TD125. I have a TD125 and, although I think the rega arms look fanstastic, I'd heard they weren't a good match with that table. What modifications did you have to do to it. Was it an RB300? They're amazing arms at a good price, so I'm interested in how you made it work!


It's an OL1 which is the Origin Live version of the Rega RB250. Mine was fully modded a few years ago now, but since then they've added another mod which is a slit in the armtube to prevent ringing, that I've not bothered with as it would mean rewiring again I think.

It was the best reasonably priced (sub 1000USD) arm I heard at the time and I have spent more effort on other decks since then, so I havn't bothered further upgrading the Thorens.

soundsupports supply a mount you can place over your existing armboard which is pretty convenient but maybe not the best aesthetic solution. Technical and General in England used to supply original Thorens replacement armboards but it would probably be cheaper to get one cut locally, rather than pay shipping.

Of the Rega modded arms at the moment I think I would go for the Michell Tecnoarm, rather than the Origin Live one, as it's supposed to be much smoother and less hard in the midrange, which is the common criticism of the Rega arms per se.
I would also consider Audio Origami's mods which include filling the armtube with foam to prevent ringing. The Origin Live mods do smooth out the Rega arm a lot making it much more neutral but it's still a little lifeless in the midrange compared to other arms I find. Bass and treble are really good though and it's just the overall feeling of precision and control which makes the Rega such a market leader at the price.

Another possibility now is the Funk Firm moddified Linn Ittok (LVII) which substitutes the existing tube for a carbon fibre one.

I've also been considering a modded Logic Datum which is a lighter arm like the Syrinx LE1 or a unipivot like the Hadcock.

But the 125 is much less nervous in use due to it's heavier construction than the 150/160 types, so can take pretty much any arm really, althouth I'm not sure I'd put a real heavyweight like a Fidelity Research on there, as it might strain the suspension.

The armboard design is cool because you could have several boards and just swop arms in a few minutes for comparison purposes. As I said I've not gone this far as yet with mine.

All I've done is removed the foam from the springs, added sorbothane to the underside of the top plate to damp it and I also use a silicon platter matt from srm-tech.co.uk SRM Design - Home which worked wonders on the level of detail I was getting, again by reducing ringing in the platter / subplatter.

The plinth on mine was a fairly unconventional one with oversized adjustable aluminim feet on a basic open frame with no dodgy bottom board. I don't know whether it is original or not as I never saw another like it. It looks pretty cool in a kind of '70s way so I've left it as is.
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 11:30 AM Post #17 of 24
Hallo Memepool. I admire your knowledge about hifi universe.
I have just bought a Thorens TD 166 MkII (140 CHF) to introduce myself into vynil.
Would you be so kind to recommend me an affordable pairing amplifier and loudspeakers.
Thank you
 
Mar 22, 2015 at 7:04 PM Post #18 of 24
I would go for an '80s or '90s integrated amp with a phono stage as a separate one will be more costly. Amps like NAD 3020A/3120 had really nice phono stage and were very common. Cyrus One has amazing phonostage. Or Japanese minimalist amps made for 'audiophile' market like Pioneer A400, Rotel RA820/830/840, Marantz PM44 / 66 etc... all have solid phono stages and are very good amps for 2nd hand prices.
http://www.tnt-audio.com/guide/amps_e.html this article pretty much nails exactly what I just wrote and I don't think there were many massive bargains to be had in the 00's in this area. Manufacturers like Onkyo and Yamaha went back to two channel but multichannel recievers displaced stereo minimalist source systems in this era so these would be rarer 2nd hand.
On Speakers again i would defer to http://www.tnt-audio.com/guide/speakers_e.html. He does concentrate on British stuff quite a lot though. With speakers you can go back into the '60s although be weary of the really sensitive ones that are designed for low output valve amps. A smooth transistor amp like the lower powered Rotel's would sound good and these kinds of speakers do sound amazing with little digital t-amps if you are lucky enough to find some old Philips dual concentrics or something like that, but of course the latter is not really a simple amp for a vinyl system so I digress...
 
Feb 18, 2016 at 6:48 PM Post #19 of 24
HI, I just got thorens td-166 mkii , I have read the thread but i can't seem to find the upgrade tone arm.  What do you recommend for new tone arm for current setup?  I have everything stock it sound ok but hard to adjust the weight force.  Thank you very much.
 
Mar 12, 2016 at 4:38 PM Post #20 of 24


It Lives! Bought this Thorens TD-166 Mk II in 1986 while I was in the Army. It's been in storage for 25 years, along with my vinyl collection.
 
Added a replacement drive belt, anticipating that the old one would be dried-out (I was right); some De-oxit to the connectors on the tonearm and RCA plugs, adjusted the tracking force with a Shure stylus force gauge, set the anti-skate, and used a fresh Swiffer as a record cleaner... it all just worked.
 
Mar 12, 2016 at 4:53 PM Post #21 of 24
Yup, i replace belt, lube platter, deoxite connection they sound great. I just having a problem cant set correct weight i want. I set it max only to 1.5 g, when my stylus required 1.8-2.2. This dont make sense at all. I must done something wrong or the tone arm is bad? I also balance both turntable and platter to be balance too
 
Mar 12, 2016 at 5:01 PM Post #22 of 24
Yup, i replace belt, lube platter, deoxite connection they sound great. I just having a problem cant set correct weight i want. I set it max only to 1.5 g, when my stylus required 1.8-2.2. This dont make sense at all. I must done something wrong or the tone arm is bad? I also balance both turntable and platter to be balance too


I have my weight set to 1.5g (I measured with a gauge, not relying on the tick marks on the weight dial). It looks like there is room remaining, but I don't know about going to 2.2g.
 
By the way, how did you lube the platter? I mean, what lubricant did you use and where dod you apply it?
 
Mar 12, 2016 at 5:21 PM Post #24 of 24
I use digitl weight scale. I oil at the platter pointy thing. I took the inner platter out clean it then 4 drops of mobil1 oil


Cool, thanks!
 

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