[krmathis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioCats /img/forum/go_quote.gif http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z5/audiocats/IMGP1826.jpg Mighty-mini testing. The winning combo's are....... VitQ 1uf/100v for input, and Kimber 0.01uf for output. or, Sonic-I 1.5uf/200V for input, and Cardas 0.01uf for output. The overall SQ level of both combinations are about the same, with the Sonic/Cardas a little bit creamier and with a slightly wider sound stage. As you can see in the photo, I have tested quite some cap combo's. I don't want to go into details on how the other combo's did, lets just say they were not very "listenable". two special notes: * the VitQ's I tested were the 96P series 1uf/100V, they might be too large to be fitted into the battery compartment. * The absolute maximum allowable size for an output cap (that is if you can do all the tricks to make it fit), is about 0.3" (d) x 0.75" (L). Now if you go on-line and check out the spec for Cardas 0.01uf, the spec shows a 0.33" diameter which will be too large. However the four Cardas I have all measured 0.28" in diameter. I got them from Soniccraft. Not sure if cardas has recently changed the design. And NO, even with the best cap combo the mini mod is still not quite where the FC mod is. But not too far from it.

That seems like a well modified SRM-001.

Well done!

 

[AudioCats]

Recommanded input/output cap combo's, for a basic cap upgrade
--- assuming you are only changing the input and output caps, not replacing the stock opamp, and not shorting out R33/34/35.
--- assuming the little amp is pushing a pair of baby stax.
--- assuming you are willing to put the input caps into the battery bay, or there won't be enough room. Therefore an external power source is a must.( If you plan to keep the battery bay, see the end of this post for cap recommandation.)

a* VitQ input, Cardas output -- very full warm sound, no hardness, wide stage, but a little too thick. The speed problem of 062L is not too obvious.

b* VitQ input, Kimber output -- good. A little cold. Good speed (which only means it hides the problem well).

c* VitQ input, Sonic-1 output -- good, a little hard. Showes speed problem, obvious.

d* Sonic-1 in, Sonic-1 out -- good sharpness, a little hard. Obvious speed problem.

e* Sonic-1 in, Cardas out -- not as thick as the VitQ/Cardas. basically no hardness. kind of showes the speed problem.

f* Kimber in, Sonic-1 out -- good clarity, good sharpness, hides the speed problem pretty well, but bass is too light.

g* Auri 0.22uf by-passing BlackGate NX47uf for input, Cardas as output -- about the best there is without changing the opamp.

h* Auri 0.22uf by-passing NX47uf for input, Auri as output -- not quite as good as the one above, but close. As always, Auri out gives a fatigue-free sound, might not be very impressive but good for all-day listening. Now whether your ear canals can handle the baby stax for that long is another question.

i* Auri 0.22uf by-passing NX47uf for input, Sonic-1 as output -- good but a little hard.

The speed problem is from the opamp so it is always there, just whether you will notice it right away. For driving baby stax, my preference is g > h > i & e > a & b.


If you have to keep the battery bay and use the internal batteries, the best combo will probably be BC 0.12uf by-passing NX 47uf blackgates for input; and Auri or Cardas for output, with Auri a little on the hard side and Cardas slightly thick.


My Proton-K will get done this holiday weekend, and it is about as far as I will go for 001 modding. I no longer have the willingness to do a Saturn-VIII "just because I can", I much rather put the money toward my SRM-1 (non-MK2, non-pro) upgrade.

 

[AudioCats]

By the way, somebody should test the 0.01uf Audiocap theta and write a report. Theta's are very promising caps.

 

[webbie64]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioCats /img/forum/go_quote.gif My Proton-K will get done this holiday weekend, and it is about as far as I will go for 001 modding. I no longer have the willingness to do a Saturn-VIII "just because I can", I much rather put the money toward my SRM-1 (non-MK2, non-pro) upgrade.

I, and I'm sure many others, cannot thank you enough for the many hours of work you have put into this Mod thread, as well as the Mods themselves.

I thoroughly enjoy both a FC and an SFC and appreciate your research and assistance to me and those who have helped get mine together.

May your SRM-1 upgrade go smoothly and easilly for you, Audiocats.

 

[Victor Chew]

Quote:

Originally Posted by webbie64 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I, and I'm sure many others, cannot thank you enough for the many hours of work you have put into this Mod thread, as well as the Mods themselves. I thoroughly enjoy both a FC and an SFC and appreciate your research and assistance to me and those who have helped get mine together. May your SRM-1 upgrade go smoothly and easilly for you, Audiocats.

Agreed. Audiocats has been extremely generous with both his ideas on new journeys and answers to questions (ie. my silly questions). Anything is so much more enjoyable when you are not doing it alone!!!

 

[AudioCats]

Thanks, good luck to you guys too.



Just in case I might get lucky..... WTB, a broken 001 amp or a partially working 001 system. Please PM me if you have one laying around collectiong dust.

 

[Spasticteapot]

Does anyone have frequency response specs on these?

Perhaps a comparison to some high-end IEMs?

 

[AudioCats]

Catscratch's review on SFC++ (that amp belongs to Morphsci.)

 

[HeadphoneAddict]

I can say the SuperFatCat or stock SR-001 bass is not as flat down to 25Hz or even 30Hz as my Livewires IEM, but the treble is definitely more extended when you get past 12Khz with the SFC.

The SuperFatCat modded SR-001 is good enough to be your only Stat if you were on a budget. It could also be your only IEM if you didn't need isolation, or don't mind carrying an amp (or battery pack) with you all the time. In my case, it makes a perfect car/driving IEM because I can hear traffic if needed (and sirens), and I can plug it into my 4.5v cigarette lighter adapter. I actually use it more often at my bedside for listening in bed and in case I fall asleep. I haven't powered up the DV33i tube at my bedside in weeks, and only listen to the SuperFatCat in bed.

 

[AudioCats]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif it makes a perfect car/driving IEM because I can hear traffic if needed (and sirens), .

dude, that is crazy.....

 

[sclee]

I ordered 2pcs AD8620, should be better that AD8599 and use lower current.
Is the Opamp power supply section don't provide more that +/-12V so that i can safety use the AD8620 ?

 

[AudioCats]

Try using 220 ohm resistors to replace R34/35 (instead of shorting), and measure the +/- supply voltage. you will likely have to go to lower value, possibly 47 ohm or so, but 220 is a good start.

Let us know how they sound and what input/output caps they prefer.

 

[borisov57]

AD8620 looks promising. I would suggest, that you measure op-amp voltage before R34/35 resistor with maximum supply voltage ( external supply or Li-ion ). It will most likely be +/-15V. Than you can adjust R34/35 for new current draw of AD8620 ( 4x 2.5mA ), so that op-amp will see only +/-12V.

Good luck!

 

[sclee]

Thank you for borisov57 and AudioCats informations.

I installed two AD8620AR, i tested with following and overall current draw is:

Short R35/R34 15V 360ma
R35/R34 with 220ohm 12V 345ma
R35/R34 with 440ohm 9.1V (the stax's default SMD resistance) 320ma

I will discuss the sound after run more hours.

 

[borisov57]

Great sclee, I will try that one day. I bet it sounds great.