Sonically it's sounds warmer than a Raytheon vt231.
I think Mullard had a factory in Australia. There is a Mullard labelled 6sn7gta version that was build in Australia. Sadly I can't find a picture of those tubes.
There was a Philips plant in Adelaide, Australia. If I remember correctly there was a time when tube internals were assembled in England and shipped to Australia and then the tubes were completed there.
Noob question for you guys. Seems like different branding has a different "house sound" for the same tube, eg, RCA, Kenrad etc. If using a 231 as an example, how do they each produce their own house sound? Is it all just slight variation in the make up of the tube?
I've got a pair of Kenrad vt231's here, not a bad sound by any means but the mids are too lean paired with Taks. If I changed them to an RCA vt231, would that be essentially the same sound technically but with a tonal shift?
Noob question for you guys. Seems like different branding has a different "house sound" for the same tube, eg, RCA, Kenrad etc. If using a 231 as an example, how do they each produce their own house sound? Is it all just slight variation in the make up of the tube?
I've got a pair of Kenrad vt231's here, not a bad sound by any means but the mids are too lean paired with Taks. If I changed them to an RCA vt231, would that be essentially the same sound technically but with a tonal shift?
By comparison, RCA 40s VT-231 will sound thicker than KenRad VT-231, can be perceived as more laid-back. Though, some people might find it too dark for their taste but they are amazing for genres like Jazz and Blues. You really have to try them yourself to find out, just make sure you get those early 40s smoked glass with the old "meatball" logo. If you havent tried these yet, most British tubes like Mullard, MWT / GEC, STC / Brimar, etc (except Tungsram), have a richer and thicker mid. Have fun with your exploration.
I believe it is due to physical structure design (eg. shape of plates, grid wiring, etc) as well as material content since they all followed the same electrical specs of the prototype.
I don't want to go sideways so I might be spending big bucks. I've been looking at Vintage Tube Services out of Michigan but haven't called until I learn more of what I want.
Hey folks-
I was reading the specs on this tube earlier (6SL7 GT) but haven’t found much in the way of experience with it- wondering if anyone here has used this and if they found it to be a good thing or a bad. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Hey folks-
I was reading the specs on this tube earlier (6SL7 GT) but haven’t found much in the way of experience with it- wondering if anyone here has used this and if they found it to be a good thing or a bad. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
• With 70x gain, probably not useable in lieu of 6SN7(GT).
• 6SL7 is the preferred input tube for the ZMF Aegis headphone amplifier -- designed by @L0rdGwyn.
Hey folks-
I was reading the specs on this tube earlier (6SL7 GT) but haven’t found much in the way of experience with it- wondering if anyone here has used this and if they found it to be a good thing or a bad. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Yeah 6SL7 is very different from a 6SN7, not a direct replacement. When used well, 6SL7 sounds excellent! But has to be used in the right circuit, not in one made for 6SN7.
• With 70x gain, probably not useable in lieu of 6SN7(GT).
• 6SL7 is the preferred input tube for the ZMF Aegis headphone amplifier -- designed by @L0rdGwyn.
Was thinking of picking up a cheap quad and throwing them in the Lampizator. I’ve tried high gain triodes before and it wasn’t horrible but also wasn’t something that became an immediate winner either- just different.
Just to make sure- have you validated the placement of each cap wire? I’ve been told that the placement is “reversed” on some types. See the attached for 7192/2C22. I believe the cap placement on your tubes would be opposite of this (but please check data sheets to be sure!).
Just to make sure- have you validated the placement of each cap wire? I’ve been told that the placement is “reversed” on some types. See the attached for 7192/2C22. I believe the cap placement on your tubes would be opposite of this (but please check data sheets to be sure!).
Just to make sure- have you validated the placement of each cap wire? I’ve been told that the placement is “reversed” on some types. See the attached for 7192/2C22. I believe the cap placement on your tubes would be opposite of this (but please check data sheets to be sure!).
I have heard nothing but great things about these tubes but I just don’t trust myself with the adapters lol. I actually own a handful. Bought them a long time ago cause they were incredibly cheap. Not anymore lol.
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