The Opamp thread
Dec 21, 2009 at 10:37 PM Post #1,936 of 7,383
I'd like some advice on how to configure my stx.

As I understand it the asus xonar essence stx default opamps are:

1.) 1 x LME4562NA which is used as a single ended buffer to correct the signal level to line out standards.
2.) 2 x JRC2114D which are used to convert the Current output from the DAC to a voltage.

I have a few OPA2111 and OPA2137 opamps and I'd like to know what would be, in your opinion, the best configuration for the card.

for example I know, gurubhai has tried OPA2137 in I/V and he said he liked it a lot (funny though, I just looked at his signature and it seems he's switched to OPA2111)

gurubhai: have you tired OPA2137 in buffer and OPA2111 I/V? How about OPA2111 buffer and OPA2137 I/V?

Any input would be appreciated guys, thanks.
 
Dec 25, 2009 at 2:34 AM Post #1,939 of 7,383
Quote:

Originally Posted by forciano /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have been strongly considering buying the OPA 637SM + Adaptor for my recently purchased Asus Essence ST sound card, but it costs $250 on a website I found.

I will continue searching online, but if anybody knows where I can get it cheaper than that I would really appreciate it.
atsmile.gif



Since I've been looking recently, 4Star In-Stock OPA637SM - 4 Star Electronics 877-240-8595 and Newark TEXAS INSTRUMENTS|OPA637SM|Operational Amplifier (Op-Amp | Newark.com have stock of the OPA637SM. Any way you look at it though, the part is expensive.

I currently use a pair of OPA627BM's in my Auzentech HomeTheater, and I'd like to try the OPA637SM's biased to class A.
 
Dec 25, 2009 at 2:39 AM Post #1,940 of 7,383
Quote:

Originally Posted by opamp_addict /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Here's the new adapter just for metal can type Opamp. Hard to come by and doesn't come cheap.


Where from? For my purposes I'm sure BrownDog would do just fine, but from the picture this looks more like the ones offered by Auzentech.
 
Dec 27, 2009 at 3:55 AM Post #1,941 of 7,383
as promissed Robsix, here's the adapters

first is OPA827 x 2 with several decoupling and bypass caps with silver ground wire
OPA827wsilmicIIbypass.jpg
OPA827onadapter.jpg


next is 2 x OPA211 also with multiple blackgate and vishay caps and with more positions to fill. this one I made my own silver pins though

OPA211andOPA827modules.jpg
OPA211wmultipleBGbypassoncustomadap.jpg


the other device is one of the SSB01 discrete diamond buffers

loving the OPA827 in the new ibasso fiquest
 
Dec 27, 2009 at 11:10 AM Post #1,942 of 7,383
also I bought some adapters for metal can types on ebay and they were only a couple of dollars
 
Dec 27, 2009 at 12:49 PM Post #1,944 of 7,383
OPA627 aint all that IMO. I prefer many opamps to this chip
 
Dec 29, 2009 at 12:56 AM Post #1,946 of 7,383
Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
as promissed Robsix, here's the adapters

first is OPA827 x 2 with several decoupling and bypass caps with silver ground wire

next is 2 x OPA211 also with multiple blackgate and vishay caps and with more positions to fill. this one I made my own silver pins though

the other device is one of the SSB01 discrete diamond buffers

loving the OPA827 in the new ibasso fiquest



Very nice!
 
Dec 29, 2009 at 1:00 AM Post #1,947 of 7,383
Quote:

Originally Posted by Lavcat /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I currently use a pair of OPA627BM's in my Auzentech HomeTheater, and I'd like to try the OPA637SM's biased to class A.


I have the OPA627 and 637SM's but I have not tried them Biased to class A yet. Maybe something to check out.
I have built similar units for friends.
 
Dec 29, 2009 at 1:01 AM Post #1,948 of 7,383
Quote:

Originally Posted by sachu /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So it appears the OPA227 instead of OPA627 for I/V duty just sounds so much better.
It is more lively, crisper, better details with a more forwardish mids.
Took me by surprise.



I always liked the OPA2227 for bass channels. The chip has a very refined tight bass.
 
Dec 29, 2009 at 10:25 AM Post #1,949 of 7,383
thanks Rob, dont know if youve got any tips here. I have a liking for the cardas organic noclean flux in pretty much any situation, small SMD is definitely not an exception. often I dont bother about cleaning it off as its is not required; but with these white PCBs and with the flux getting a bit old and dark, it looks downright grubby. I have tried isopropyl alcohol and it usually does a pretty good job, but i've run out of that. i'll probably get some more and its really just for aesthetics as it doesnt effect the operation. do you have any recommendations for home remedies to clean it properly? the buffer PCBs are pretty sexy little PCBs and its a shame to have them looking so grubby. the one in the frame is ok, but could be better; I used some gin and an old toothbrush to clean that one
wink.gif
, but the one in the background with the Nichicon caps (fine gold) I havent cleaned at all and it shows. the way it is it could look to some that I have used to much heat or something, even though the condition of the joints should say otherwise due to being nice and shiny and smooth. maybe i'm just vain.....
rolleyes.gif
i've got a new tub of flux on the way, when new the flux is much lighter, but I would like to know if others have a better method for cleaning up work after its finished. most of the time of course these things are sealed inside boxes and it doesnt matter, but I know and thats enough to bother me.
 
Dec 29, 2009 at 11:26 AM Post #1,950 of 7,383
Acetone works well and can be bought at drugstores, sold for polish remover. Get pure actetone though. Most polish remover has oil and fragrance and other stuff.
 

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