The Opamp thread

Jul 13, 2010 at 11:38 PM Post #3,046 of 7,456
just because ceramic is audiophile grade as we all know:
 
   
 
 
I thought I'd use a big copper heatsink, but ceramic is immune to EMI/RFI...I like that 
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and the 1363 datasheet gives better thermal specs for CS8 over CN8, I'll check tomorrow how temperature goes..they were slightly warmer than my finger w/o cooling.
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 7:15 AM Post #3,047 of 7,456
So I just received an AD797BR from audjade. I'm wondering now, is it better to put it into my M-Stage (current OPA2134) or in my NG98 DAC Stage (current LT1028)?
 
Jul 16, 2010 at 4:32 PM Post #3,048 of 7,456
Try out both, see which you like it in better.
 
Jul 18, 2010 at 12:24 PM Post #3,051 of 7,456
Unless an HDAM fits in there. 
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Jul 21, 2010 at 1:49 AM Post #3,053 of 7,456
Any tips for Stax driver op-amp setups? (need to single ones I think). The SRM-300 I bought off neob has sockets fitted: 
 
Initially it had 2xLF 353N inside. 
 
Now it's running 2xLME49720HA but it sounds somewhat fatiguing.
 
neob said he was told 2xAD826 sounds nice in it.  (or rather may sound nice)
 
 
I was going to try my 2xOPA627BPs, but then I managed to snap one of the chip legs and it's stuck (the leg piece that is) in the adapter I used in my Aune mk2... Any tips on getting it out (It's inside the gold plated metal hole of the 2x to dip 8 adapter)?
 
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:43 AM Post #3,054 of 7,456
 
Quote:
I was going to try my 2xOPA627BPs, but then I managed to snap one of the chip legs and it's stuck (the leg piece that is) in the adapter I used in my Aune mk2... Any tips on getting it out (It's inside the gold plated metal hole of the 2x to dip 8 adapter)?


Which pin? If you're lucky, it's pin 8, and you can just leave it off since it's not used by the OPA627.
 
Otherwise, maybe you could try soldering some scrap wire onto the stuck pin and then yank it out. Or is it stuck too deep inside?
 
Jul 21, 2010 at 2:48 AM Post #3,055 of 7,456
 _
|_.|
 

 
The corner pin closest the dot indicating which side to insert the op-amp. (I have strange feeling it's pin 1)
(p.s. wow, big pic of the wrong op-amp, but I hope you understood which pin I meant)
 
p.s.s yep, it's rather deep. Guess I could still try the solder/yank method - worth a try before getting another 2xsingle to dual adapter. 
 
Jul 21, 2010 at 9:39 AM Post #3,058 of 7,456
Pin 1 is for offset trim, so it probably is not used.  Chances are the the pins being used are pins 2,3,4,6, and 7.  

Perhaps be a little more careful next time... 
 
Jul 21, 2010 at 10:46 AM Post #3,059 of 7,456
I should probably get the chip extraction tool... It's likely cheap and saves money. 
Tweezer-like or 'sucking pen' lol?
 
But yea... The opamps came with my used Aune mk2, so I didn't really realize I was handling ~$15...
 
Some of the other pins are slightly bent as well. Best way to straighten them? (or just leave them alone so they don't snap?)
 
Quote:
Perhaps be a little more careful next time... 
 
So, for alternatives for Aune and SRM-300, any comments on:
 
LT1364, LM6172, TLE2142, AD826, OPA627? 
 
 
Jul 21, 2010 at 10:59 AM Post #3,060 of 7,456
IC extraction tool?
 
Straighten them very carefully... and don't over do it.  If the pins are close, they'll straighten themselves next time they are pushed into a socket.
 
LM6172 is fast and might be unstable. From what I recall it was fairly "clear" sounding. The TLE series may be a bit better than the old TLO7X parts, but isn't as good as the better modern op amps, IMO. No experience with the others. Might try OPA827, AD797, AD825... depends on your taste.
 

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