[nc8000]

Hello and good morning / good evening,

I'm about to pull the trigger to acquire a Sony TA-ZH1ES! And the showstopper at this juncture is that the unit is 120V and my city's grid is 220V!
I'm told that a power converter would do the trick converting 220 to 120 .. but my question is:

Would such arrangement introduce noice, and what about the safety of the unit and power supply in the house, as I'm not an engineer nor technical enough to determine if I should move down this path and get the 120V unit!

Thus I like to reach out to this community and tap into the wisdoms of you folks and help me make a decision ..

TIA
Best ..

Years ago I got a second hand 120V Lehman Black Cube headphone amp plus an external voltage converter and that worked ok

 

[Nicolas Yance]

Hello and good morning / good evening,

I'm about to pull the trigger to acquire a Sony TA-ZH1ES! And the showstopper at this juncture is that the unit is 120V and my city's grid is 220V!
I'm told that a power converter would do the trick converting 220 to 120 .. but my question is:

Would such arrangement introduce noice, and what about the safety of the unit and power supply in the house, as I'm not an engineer nor technical enough to determine if I should move down this path and get the 120V unit!

Thus I like to reach out to this community and tap into the wisdoms of you folks and help me make a decision ..

TIA
Best ..

I live in Perú 220v and my unit is 120v. After almost 5 years I've no problem with noise or anything else.

Also from what i understand the power supply is almost on battery operation levels of noise so we are safe.

 

[jjss]

Years ago I got a second hand 120V Lehman Black Cube headphone amp plus an external voltage converter and that worked ok

Thanks for the reply, and btw what's the make of your external converter?

 

[jjss]

I live in Perú 220v and my unit is 120v. After almost 5 years I've no problem with noise or anything else.

Also from what i understand the power supply is almost on battery operation levels of noise so we are safe.

Do you use a power converter in between and if so what make is it?
TIA

 

[Nicolas Yance]

Do you use a power converter in between and if so what make is it?
TIA

I use a single phase transformer from a local hardware store.

 

[nc8000]

Thanks for the reply, and btw what's the make of your external converter?

No idea, it’s been over 10 years since I had it

 

[GXAlan]

Hello and good morning / good evening,

I'm about to pull the trigger to acquire a Sony TA-ZH1ES! And the showstopper at this juncture is that the unit is 120V and my city's grid is 220V!
I'm told that a power converter would do the trick converting 220 to 120 .. but my question is:

Would such arrangement introduce noice, and what about the safety of the unit and power supply in the house, as I'm not an engineer nor technical enough to determine if I should move down this path and get the 120V unit!

Thus I like to reach out to this community and tap into the wisdoms of you folks and help me make a decision ..

TIA
Best ..

It should be relatively easy with a good transformer. Make sure it’s not a simple physical connector but an actual step down transformer.

The power supply in the TA-ZH1ES measures so cleanly that it must do a great job filtering noise from AC in my opinion.

 

[Whitigir]

I wouldn’t recommend using the TaZ that way, but that is all up to you. From between 110 and 220, there are differences in phases as well as voltages. The transformer inside the TAZ isn’t even meant to be interchangeable between 110-220V either, and not recommended by Sony. Why cares about sound quality but go through all the hassles that could impede your performances ? Also potential risks ? There is a TAZ that made for your region voltages and I would stick to that, if I was you

 

[jjss]

I wouldn’t recommend using the TaZ that way, but that is all up to you. From between 110 and 220, there are differences in phases as well as voltages. The transformer inside the TAZ isn’t even meant to be interchangeable between 110-220V either, and not recommended by Sony. Why cares about sound quality but go through all the hassles that could impede your performances ? Also potential risks ? There is a TAZ that made for your region voltages and I would stick to that, if I was you

Thanks for the advice. Let me re-think this! Glad that I've asked!
In fact at this juncture I'm considering either this unit or the Teac UD-701N, and it sounds like that may be the Teac is a more realistic / safer option!

 

[tradyblix]

Shameless plug, my Taz is up for sale https://www.head-fi.org/classifieds/sony-ta-zh1es-220v-240v-mint.40965/

What did you upgrade to out of interest ?

 

[tradyblix]

I know a few folks were looking into this in 2021 and it seems like there’s no way around this lag but I wanted to double-check to see if anyone figured anything out? I’m debating a Taz but I’m also at 200-300fps when gaming and on a 244hz monitor so if this is an issue then I cannot get a Taz. I wonder if it’s still an issue when optical or coax in?

What other Dacs / Amps are recommended that are similar to the Taz? I’m assuming R2R would be similar

lol. 300 fps you literally can't even see it. Honestly after 90hz it's barely noticable. The spec numbers thing with gamers... it comes from the computer industry, it needs to end. people just want bigger and bigger numbers and don't think about quality. I notice now "gaming montiors" have totally crap resolutions but high refresh rates, higher than you'll ever really need. Sure 30->60 fps is noticable, but 200 ? 300 ? hmmm.

This product is for music lovers anyway.

 

[gLer]

What did you upgrade to out of interest ?

I've gone full portable. Currently have a DX300 MAX (Taz equivalent power), HiBy RS8 and Sony WM1Z.

 

[mildmannered]

lol. 300 fps you literally can't even see it. Honestly after 90hz it's barely noticable. The spec numbers thing with gamers... it comes from the computer industry, it needs to end. people just want bigger and bigger numbers and don't think about quality. I notice now "gaming montiors" have totally crap resolutions but high refresh rates, higher than you'll ever really need. Sure 30->60 fps is noticable, but 200 ? 300 ? hmmm.

This product is for music lovers anyway.

Requirements in competitive gameplay are different than casual gameplay, being under 120hz to me implies lack of quality.

As it relates to this thread... basically using USB input from a PC at high refresh rates is a problem that I'm inclined to think most DACs whether modern or older would struggle with. Using a non-USB input like optical resolves any issues for me and that's what I do on my RME dac and would probably also work fine with the TAZ

 

[tradyblix]

I've gone full portable. Currently have a DX300 MAX (Taz equivalent power), HiBy RS8 and Sony WM1Z.

Ah okay.

 

[tradyblix]

Requirements in competitive gameplay are different than casual gameplay, being under 120hz to me implies lack of quality.

As it relates to this thread... basically using USB input from a PC at high refresh rates is a problem that I'm inclined to think most DACs whether modern or older would struggle with. Using a non-USB input like optical resolves any issues for me and that's what I do on my RME dac and would probably also work fine with the TAZ

Fair enough. I probably shouldn't comment on that topic as I really don't care about it Personally I don't even think it belongs on head-fi. But that's me.