The NIKON Thread (Talk About Nikon Stuff here)
Apr 5, 2010 at 12:26 PM Post #4,276 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by bigshot /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Are any of those 100%? That fogginess on the first shot is very unusual. Are the back optics clean? Did you use hoods? Something is wrong there. A lens with small optics like that shouldn't have that problem. Also, is that the VR version of the 18-55? Where is the sharpening artifacting coming from? Is that from resizing?


Original sizes are 3008x2000 (or flipped). The photos I posted are flickr resized to (1024 x 681) (or flipped). So about 34% of full size. If you are interested in the full size photos, I can post links to each.

My 18-55mm is the non VR version, non II version. No hoods were used, just the lens itself (since neither the 18-55mm or 35mm came with a hood as standard, even though I have a hood for the 35mm). Yes, the back and front optics were clean as a whistle.
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 12:44 PM Post #4,277 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by skyline889 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
There are a host of problems with these shots: tripod not used, AE used for one and manual for the other on subjects 2 &3, differing EVs for exposure compensation on subjects 2 & 3, etc. I assume this is the original 18-55 and not the newer 18-55mm II or the 18-55mm VR as well. Bottom line for me, the 35mm excels in DOF and bokeh, which is of course expected. Contrast and saturation problems I chalk partially up to the user because of different settings. Is there a difference? Yes. As significant as shown? Not imo. No one here denied that the prime is the better lens but imo, the prime doesn't offer a significant enough difference to negate the lost flexibility and added price when compared to a properly used zoom. The prime to me is a supplement not a primary lens. This is of course all subjective and YMMV.

@Bigshot-I assume the milkiness is partly caused by veiled flaring which can of course could have been avoided by the OP if he so chose. Another difference seems to be that the 35mm in question seems to overexpose (Look at the highlights of the two) consistently relative to the 18-55mm, which of course affects the overall effect of brightness and contrast on the image.

I also don't mean to be a wet blanket but frankly, while that first shot looks good, if that's exactly how it came off the camera, I'm stunned. It seems overcontrasted; shadow detail is completely gone. I like contrasty images but I like to be able to add it at my discretion, not be stuck with it. Idk, maybe it's just that one shot.



Hi Skyline. Thanks for the comments.
I did indeed use a tripod! I'm guessing the slight shift in the photos made you think otherwise. It's a tricky business, because the 35mm is not as long as the 18-55mm, so that will shift the perspective a tiny bit. Also, I set the 18-55mm so that 35mm was selected, and that it displayed 35mm in my on camera display, but some shots were slightly different, such as 35.6mm.
I tried my best.

I see you also noticed that I used one mode for the 18-55mm (aperture priority), and another for the 35mm (manual). I did my first photo with the 18-55mm. I recorded the shutter speed, switched lenses, and then put my 35mm on. To make sure I reproduced the shutter speed, I set it to manual. This will have no difference. You have to remember, the only thing that will determine exposure is the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. ISO was fixed, aperture was fixed, and shutter speed was fixed between comparison photos. The differences we are seeing are from the lenses, not the different modes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyline
the prime doesn't offer a significant enough difference to negate the lost flexibility and added price when compared to a properly used zoom.


Speak for yourself, but for me, the prime does indeed over a significant enough difference. ^_^
Chalk that up to personal preference I guess.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skyline
if that's exactly how it came off the camera, I'm stunned. It seems overcontrasted; shadow detail is completely gone. I like contrasty images but ...


This is simply the contrast setting I had set in the camera. The big thing here is that this setting was the same for all 6 shots. Looking at the photo data, I had my camera set to 0 contrast (neutral). My camera goes from -2 (low contrast) to +2 (high contrast). I usually shoot in neutral contrast, unless I need more detail in the extremes in which case I'll change it to -1 or -2.


PS: Go easy on me. You are so quick to blame me (I'm really not a bad person). I kid you not, I simply took 3 test photos. One of a backyard, the other two which interested me personally. I did not spend my afternoon seeking out photos that would particularly make the 18-55mm look bad. I also tried my best to create similar shots between the two lenses.
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 1:33 PM Post #4,278 of 5,895
For the past few months I've been mostly photographing with wide angle lenses, doing landscape photography.

Yesterday I took photos of people, and for a few photos I switched over to the cheap nikkor 70-300mm 1:4-5.6G. What a fantastic portrait lens, and for 155$....!
I kid you not, this lens has one of THE BEST bokehs of any lens I have used. Backgrounds are smooth as butter!

I love this lens to death. I'll post up a few photos when I'm finished editing them.
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 1:46 PM Post #4,279 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by Towert7 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I see you also noticed that I used one mode for the 18-55mm (aperture priority), and another for the 35mm (manual). I did my first photo with the 18-55mm. I recorded the shutter speed, switched lenses, and then put my 35mm on. To make sure I reproduced the shutter speed, I set it to manual. This will have no difference. You have to remember, the only thing that will determine exposure is the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. ISO was fixed, aperture was fixed, and shutter speed was fixed between comparison photos. The differences we are seeing are from the lenses, not the different modes.


Is it possible that that the lenses are causing differences in exposure for some reason?

If you allowed your camera body to calculate the exposure automatically for both lenses (zoom set to same focal length as prime), does it arrive at the same values (SS, aperture, ISO) for both?
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 2:35 PM Post #4,280 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by jpelg /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is it possible that that the lenses are causing differences in exposure for some reason?

If you allowed your camera body to calculate the exposure automatically for both lenses (zoom set to same focal length as prime), does it arrive at the same values (SS, aperture, ISO) for both?



It may be possible. At times it looks like the 35mm prime lets in about a 1/2 stop more light.
I'll have to give that a try sometime. Just to be sure though, do you mean putting the camera on full auto so that it calculates all 3 at once?
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 3:57 PM Post #4,281 of 5,895
There is no point in testing it more. People will believe what they want to believe no matter what you do. See what happens after you did the test? YOU MUST HAVE DONE IT WRONG, they say. Oh well.
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 5:44 PM Post #4,282 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by choka /img/forum/go_quote.gif
See what happens after you did the test? YOU MUST HAVE DONE IT WRONG, they say. Oh well.


It's not a bad thing to be sceptical at times, especially when that person has no previous track record to go by. The only thing that makes me sad is when it seems like people try and put me down. These discussions so far have been pretty civil without many personal attacks, so I'm happy. ^_^
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 7:23 PM Post #4,283 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by Towert7 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
do you mean putting the camera on full auto so that it calculates all 3 at once?


Pretty much. Alternatively, maybe choosing ISO, & SS, letting the camera compute aperture. Or do it in aperture-priority mode. This might reduce some variables. Although with digital shutters, I assume a DSLR display would show the closest standard shutter-speed, but still be "actually" different by fractions (but still enough to see close to a 1/2-stop difference in exposure).

I guess the real question is, what aspect of a lens would cause an exposure difference - aperture mechanics?
 
Apr 5, 2010 at 8:15 PM Post #4,284 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by jpelg /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I guess the real question is, what aspect of a lens would cause an exposure difference - aperture mechanics?


Some of the old lenses had very noticeable vignetting, letting less light in around the corners.
But when this is not an issue (as it's not really in my case), my only guess is the lens coatings are at play here.
 
Apr 6, 2010 at 2:54 AM Post #4,285 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by Towert7 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
For the past few months I've been mostly photographing with wide angle lenses, doing landscape photography.

Yesterday I took photos of people, and for a few photos I switched over to the cheap nikkor 70-300mm 1:4-5.6G. What a fantastic portrait lens, and for 155$....!
I kid you not, this lens has one of THE BEST bokehs of any lens I have used. Backgrounds are smooth as butter!

I love this lens to death. I'll post up a few photos when I'm finished editing them.



Here are three nice bokeh photos that came from the 155$ Nikkor 70-300mm.
Some say it's actually a sigma lens rebranded as a nikkor, but I have so much fun with this cheap thing on a crop sensor.

4495625050_970064a44f_b.jpg


4495603706_83649df3f5_b.jpg


4495587014_6bdb370cc8_b.jpg


Can the 300mm F/4 be any better I wonder?
 
Apr 6, 2010 at 6:48 AM Post #4,286 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by jpelg /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I guess the real question is, what aspect of a lens would cause an exposure difference - aperture mechanics?


Tried pretty hard to look for answers on this but couldn't find any. It happens for quite a lot of lenses, more so for third parties. I read that the Tokina 11-16mm would have underexposure at 16mm but overexposure at 11mm. I have that lens but I have never noticed that, BUT I use M mode and adjusts my exposures by looking at the histogram every time, so it might be so for my lens as well. (some explanation is that metering is done only in the center. I don't buy it. That's not true when the metering is set to Matrix) (moreover it doesn't explain the difference among different lenses at the same focal length)

Anyone found any technical explanation for this please share with us?
 
Apr 6, 2010 at 7:36 AM Post #4,287 of 5,895
I don't know, but from looking at the first image, it looks like it was taken at a larger F-stop (smaller hole) because the background is quite a bit more in focus, not just a subtle difference in bokeh.

How old is the lens? Has it been serviced recently? Not that you'd think you would have to. But it seems to me that the blades aren't opening to the proper aperatures. Either it is suffering from mechanical problems, or maybe the lens just isn't made with enough precision, and isn't very accurate. It's a fairly cheap lens, right?
 
Apr 6, 2010 at 7:42 AM Post #4,288 of 5,895
although, looking at the first image again, it doesn't really look like it's just a darker exposure, because the shaddows in the zoom image are actually a bit lighter than in the prime image. And this is confirmed by the histogram in photoshop.

As a whole though, the histogram for the prime looks more healthy to me, with tones spread out across the spectrum instead of piled towards the shaddows.

Strange. It looks as if it's a darker exposure with less contrast.
 
Apr 6, 2010 at 7:52 AM Post #4,289 of 5,895
Quote:

Originally Posted by rhythmdevils /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Strange. It looks as if it's a darker exposure with less contrast.


For that, my guess is in zoom lenses, there are more glass elements which potentially reduces contrast.

Primes are more simple designs. As an engineering problem it is easier to do it right. Zooms are harder problems. Coming up with a design that maintains good contrast, sharpness, color, etc across the complete zoom range is no easy feat.
 

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