The Mod Collective: Bring all your IEM mods here.
Jan 27, 2019 at 7:01 PM Post #31 of 65
I’m almost sure that bottom one is the same driver used in the Bosshifi B3 or B3S. It’s been a long time since I researched that, so I forget which one of the 2 it is.
The bottom one is of course bosshifi but the BA is bellsing 30761. This made it have a increased price of 40$. It just feel smoother and more stretched in staging.

The first one is big cellulose. I can say, it is plug and play and simple balanced sound

The second is pretty special. It is a upgraded senn ie800s driver with Tesla coil and titanium deposit on diaphragm surface.

Fastest Dynamic, or I can say fastest driver heard till date. It is faster than planars. But the tuning is V shape (well decay is tight so it is not annoying but still)
 
Jan 29, 2019 at 6:41 PM Post #33 of 65
Jan 30, 2019 at 3:02 AM Post #34 of 65
Feb 4, 2019 at 1:41 PM Post #36 of 65
AirPods Custom Mold

Apple Airpods fall out of my ears. I have bought all of the skins, ear hangers and ear hooks that are available for AirPods, and they still fall out, or I am so worried that they will that I cannot enjoy them.

So, I purchased a Radians Custom Molded Earplug kit and made some custom-molded carriers for my Apple AirPods that actually keep them in my ears. Notice that the thermoplastic does not surround the stalk of the AirPods, so they can be quickly removed and returned to the charging case. All of the holes are open, except for the IR sensor in the back, so you need to disable the Automatic Ear Detection for the AirPods from the BlueTooth menu. For me, this is a small price to pay for a secure fit for these AirPods.

IMG_0667.JPG
 
Feb 4, 2019 at 2:15 PM Post #37 of 65
Very nice job!

I've used Radians on a few projects and like it. Also made a few sets of custom earplugs for sleeping and concerts.

Also to clarify - Radians is a silicone-based putty, and is 1 time use once cured. Thermoplastic is a plastic, and is infinitely remoldable. Both can be used for audio mods, but have different properties :)
 
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Feb 4, 2019 at 4:17 PM Post #38 of 65
Very nice job!

I've used Radians on a few projects and like it. Also made a few sets of custom earplugs for sleeping and concerts.

Also to clarify - Radians is a silicone-based putty, and is 1 time use once cured. Thermoplastic is a plastic, and is infinitely remoldable. Both can be used for audio mods, but have different properties :)

Thanks for your reply! I didn't realize the difference between the two. I am very happy with the silicone based Radians. I can actually forget that I have the AirPods in my ears when using them.
 
Feb 4, 2019 at 9:48 PM Post #39 of 65
Thanks for your reply! I didn't realize the difference between the two. I am very happy with the silicone based Radians. I can actually forget that I have the AirPods in my ears when using them.

Yeah, the radians silicone is nice and comfy. You can buy a generic version on Aliexpress for much cheaper. It’s blue, but I have also seen it in red.

The thermoplastic is a milky white plastic. It reminds me of the plastic they make gallon milk jugs out of.
 
Feb 10, 2019 at 10:23 PM Post #43 of 65
BTW, here is my progress on the solution to the "green cable" problem.

Below is a pair of KZ 8 core cables generously donated by @Podster. It's hard to tell from the photos (poor lighting), but both cables were minty green with oxidation before I started. However, as you can see, 1 of the cables is now black.





In theory literally any color can be done - red, blue, green, yellow, purple, brown, pink, etc. It's even possible to do multi-colored, such as the section below the y-split in black and the section above the y-split in green. Or the R cable section above the y-split in red, and the L cable section above the y-split in blue! Picture how awesome a red cable would look with a red ZS6. Or a green cable with green ZSR. The possibilities are endless :)

The color is chemically bonded directly to the outside of the cable using a special industrial solvent dying process (it is NOT spray paint, fabric dye, food coloring, etc). The color is 100% permanent, and will NOT peel, chip, or rub off in any way. The jacks and inner copper conductor are totally unaffected, and there is no change with impedance or sound in any way. The cable, including the insulation, is undamaged. This process has no negative effects.

I have a few more tests to run, but so far I am very happy with the results. This is going to be a great option for cables that have ugly green oxidation, but are otherwise perfectly functional. Since some people are throwing their cables away when they turn green, this option will save money (from having to buy new cables) and keep the oxidized cables out of the landfill :)

Unfortunately, not every cable can be colored in this manner. The KZ 4-core silver upgrade cable (which had also oxidized green) did not turn out as good as the above 8-core cable. This is because the 4-core KZ silver cable uses 2 totally different types of wire insulation (1 type of insulation below the y-split, and a different type of insulation above the y-split)! The section of cable below the y-split turned out perfectly, and looks exactly like the above black 8-core cable. However, the upper section (above the y-split) turned out with a similar color as the KZ 'iron grey' upgrade cable (a translucent brownish grey). Obviously the upper section of the wire (above the y-split) isn't fully compatible with my process. Despite the 4-core cable being kind of a 2-tone color scheme, the end result still looks better than the mint-green oxidized cable I started out with.

I don't yet know what other cables this method works on yet (ie the silver plated 4-core TRN cable, the new 8-core cables from KZ and TRN, etc). That's 1 of the things I hope to test in the coming days.

I also need to figure out how to scale it down so people can do 1-2 cables themselves. As it stands now, I had to buy enough material to do like 1,000 cables haha. It's like a woman who wants to paint her fingernails or toenails with red nail polish, but has to buy 5 gallons at a time!

Anyways, I'll keep everyone posted with the progress.

I wanted to provide an update on my cable dye project. To come up to speed, read my original post I quoted above.

Anyways, I made a significant breakthrough tonight, and have perfected a scaled down method that can be done easily and cheaply. No expensive industrial dyes to source, and no ending up with enough dye to do 1,000 cables. Just a few simple items that you can buy at 2 local stores, and a few minutes of your time.

I am working on writing the How2 right now. It will be an easy step-by-step guide that most anyone can follow.

Here’s a sneak peek for your viewing pleasure...

"Gold" ie yellow cable:



Blue cable for blue ZS7:



The trio I've done so far:



FYI, my method is based on the same method that professional cable manufacturers dye cables. They just do it on a larger scale and with different chemicals (ie the same way I originally did my 1st black cable).

Here’s my DIY dyed cable (bottom left) next to 2 other “professional” cables that were industrially dyed. Note that the TRN bi-color cable on the right is dyed yellow before it's braided with the clear silver plated wires, hence why it looks a little different (lighter) than the other 2:



What colors will you be able to use? How about any of these (and even more colors which I don't own). You can even mix them to make custom colors. The sky is the limit.




Update - I just did 2 more; these were TRN 8-wire cables.

Before (stock 50% black and 50% silver):


After (50% black and 50% ‘gold plated’):


Before (stock 50% yellow and 50% silver):


After (100% deep yellow):


As you can see from this photo, you can easily adjust the intensity of the color. For both of the TRN cables, I used the same exact dye, but I varied the color from ‘gold plated’ look on the left to ‘intense yellow’ look on the left. Easy to see the difference in this side-by-side photo:
 
Feb 16, 2019 at 10:24 AM Post #44 of 65
AirPods and Instamorph

I have had a difficult time with keeping AirPods in my ears, so I have explored using silicone and thermoplastic to create custom molds for them (see prior post in this thread for details on silicone molds).

For the thermoplastic effort I purchased a small bag (6 oz) of Instamorph from Amazon. You pour beads of this white substance into a cup of hot water, and it turns clear. Then remove it from the hot water and let it cool enough to touch. At this point it can be moulded before it turns white again.

I took a small amount, flattened it out, and wrapped the AirPods with it, placed the AirPod in my ear, and worked the warm substance into the nooks and crannies of my ear.

Be careful not to allow the thermoplastic to adhere to the plastic of the AirPod. Wrap the stalk of the AirPod just enough to hold it securely, but lightly enough to snap it in and out. Also do not cover the ports on the AirPod, and you will need to drill a hole to expose the bass port on the outside of the AirPod. (See pictures)

The good news is that if you make a mistake, you can just reheat the thermoplastic and try again.
 

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Feb 16, 2019 at 10:29 AM Post #45 of 65
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