[luvdunhill]

Thanks guys!
 
With the small USB connector, casing is always a challenge. Perhaps you guys could consider a stacked plexi case, similar to this:
 

 

[cobaltmute]

That case is cool, but how do you get the output wires off cleanly? As well, the filter caps would have an issue fitting.
 
I'd like to see that case larger to actually see how they did it though.
 
 
 

 

[limpidglitch]

Quote:

I've got a few ideas bouncing around for my next DAC...
 
 
And for those that care about these things, it was one year ago today that I drew the first schematic for the grubDAC.

Hurray, hurray!
 
Happy anniversary!

 

[luvdunhill]

it's just stacked plexi. The inner layer is mostly missing to accomodate the board. Vertical mount RCA jacks generally suck and if you wanted to do something like the above, perhaps try RCA chassis jacks that actually thread through the PCB itself, like the old Benz PP-1 (sorry, small image again):
 

 
Anyways, just an idea... I think the above sort of "casing" would result in the smallest, cheapest form factor possible.
 
Quote:

That case is cool, but how do you get the output wires off cleanly? As well, the filter caps would have an issue fitting.
 
I'd like to see that case larger to actually see how they did it though.
 
 
 

 

[jdkJake]

Quote:

And for those that care about these things, it was one year ago today that I drew the first schematic for the grubDAC.

I picked up the Beatles remasters when they came out.
 
I just played "Birthday" from the White Album through the GrubDac in honor of the occasion.  
 
Very nice indeed.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

it's just stacked plexi. The inner layer is mostly missing to accomodate the board. Vertical mount RCA jacks generally suck and if you wanted to do something like the above, perhaps try RCA chassis jacks that actually thread through the PCB itself, like the old Benz PP-1 (sorry, small image again):
 

 
Anyways, just an idea... I think the above sort of "casing" would result in the smallest, cheapest form factor possible.
 

 

"Smallest, cheapest form factor possible?"  Hmm ... you guys would be shocked to see what cobaltmute has up his sleeve ... 

 

[cobaltmute]

Quote:

Anyways, just an idea... I think the above sort of "casing" would result in the smallest, cheapest form factor possible.

 

I don't think that by the time that you get the plexi and then get it cut to fit, that you'll be saving much over the price of the Hammond Case.  And don't forget that the form factor of the grub is also setup to have it fit into a Hammond 1455C, as well as into the MilletMAX. 
 
Great ideas for future projects, but not in scope for the grub and its intended design points.
 

 

[cobaltmute]

Quote:

I picked up the Beatles remasters when they came out.
 
I just played "Birthday" from the White Album through the GrubDac in honor of the occasion.  
 
Very nice indeed.

Mono or Stereo remaster?
 
The Mono remasters are fantastic and of the listening I've done are the better of the two.

 

[the_equalizer]

Quote:

Very clean work, luvdunhill.  Deft touch with the iron and the solder.
 
I've got a few ideas bouncing around for my next DAC...
 
 
And for those that care about these things, it was one year ago today that I drew the first schematic for the grubDAC.

 
Nice!  Less than a year between first schematic and kits. Congratulations!
 

 

[jdkJake]

Quote:

Mono or Stereo remaster?
 
The Mono remasters are fantastic and of the listening I've done are the better of the two.

 
This was the stereo version. I have not ripped the mono set yet.
 
I have yet to listen to the mono set with headphones, only speakers. They sound excellent over speakers.

 

[barsk]

Yes! Another cableGrubDAC has seen the light!
 
And No...

Unfortunately I have bridged it somewhere and it deos not work... This is my first SMD project and a pretty daunting task at it turned out. Actually I found it quite easy to position and anchor the ICs, but then problem started. I tried using the methods mentioned in Tangent's and GrubDac tutorials but they somehow don't work with my Velleman iron with plated tips. The swiping motion is supposed to deliver a little solder and then it can be used to pickup excess. Well, it delivered too much, and picked up nothing. No matter how I tried I could not get the excess off unless with a desoldering wick. I actually found I think Tomb's method of putting a little solder on the tip and swipe just one or two pins at the time the best. So after a bit of grief I was able to produce fairly good looking soldering. I guess next time I'll do better from start.
 
But I did get a bridge there anyway. I have 0 V on the 3.3 test point so there is a short to ground somewhere, I detect shorts on most of the caps, and that is expected. But how do I pinpoint the actual bridge? Do I have to desolder all parts one by one? I tried to look for bridges with a bright light and have removed those. I have tested with continuity meter to ensure each pin is free. I do have an extra board so I could test which pins are connected on the PCB. Those pins does buzz in the meter of course. So can it be a bridge under one of the caps then?
 
I heard about not getting solder up on the X1, and that is my single last thing to test. Help guys?

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Yes! Another cableGrubDAC has seen the light!
 
And No...

Unfortunately I have bridged it somewhere and it deos not work... This is my first SMD project and a pretty daunting task at it turned out. Actually I found it quite easy to position and anchor the ICs, but then problem started. I tried using the methods mentioned in Tangent's and GrubDac tutorials but they somehow don't work with my Velleman iron with plated tips. The swiping motion is supposed to deliver a little solder and then it can be used to pickup excess. Well, it delivered too much, and picked up nothing. No matter how I tried I could not get the excess off unless with a desoldering wick. I actually found I think Tomb's method of putting a little solder on the tip and swipe just one or two pins at the time the best. So after a bit of grief I was able to produce fairly good looking soldering. I guess next time I'll do better from start.
 
But I did get a bridge there anyway. I have 0 V on the 3.3 test point so there is a short to ground somewhere, I detect shorts on most of the caps, and that is expected. But how do I pinpoint the actual bridge? Do I have to desolder all parts one by one? I tried to look for bridges with a bright light and have removed those. I have tested with continuity meter to ensure each pin is free. I do have an extra board so I could test which pins are connected on the PCB. Those pins does buzz in the meter of course. So can it be a bridge under one of the caps then?
 
I heard about not getting solder up on the X1, and that is my single last thing to test. Help guys?

There was a PCB defect on one PCB where the ground plane was shorted with the positive pad for C5.  However, I've inspected a number of the PCB's I have without finding the same defect.  AFAIK, no one else has had trouble with it, either.  Still, I suppose it might be something to check - see if you can measure 0 resistance between the positive pad on C5 (the one connected to the trace on the back of the PCB) and Ground (0V).  (Do this with the power OFF.)  If not, then there's no defect there.
 
The first place to look if you're not getting 3.3V on the test point is the TPS regulator chip.  Check to see that there's no bridge there and that the pins all have good solder joints.  See if you can measure 3.3V with Ground anywhere along the trace with the pin closest to the "U2" silkscreen.  If none of that checks out, you may just have a blown TPS chip.
 
Let's see what cobaltmute says, too.
 

 

[cobaltmute]

To verify, 5V at the input side?  Then test the 3V3 point.
 
After that, it is all about trying to find the bridge.  Very close inspection with a magnifier and a light.  You could try to remove L3 to see if the TPS works or not as well.

 

[barsk]

Yes, 5 V is working, as well as the led. I also get some "USB acknowledgement" sound from the PC, but no devices show up.
 
Good suggestion with the L3, I'll start there. And yesterday I inspected X1 and found no solder leaking up there to the top. .Two of the pins where connected with the top though, and it should be only one (tested with my spare x1). I guess that is due to the Vdd to ground short somewhere. Did not detect a PCB fault at C5 as mentioned either.
 
Well, for the next grubDac to build  (I bought two) I will definitively look for shorts after every part soldered down. To find the error after completion is proving difficult...

 

[barsk]

Update!
 
Removing L3 showed the TPS regulator was fine, and confirmed the other parts connected to it. So I investigated further...
I obviously was incorrect in with my detection of bridges on the U1. I had not one but two bridges

. Well, once identified one of them was easily cleared with a little solder wick. The other proved difficult. I tried to suck up the excess solder with a wick that stuck in betwwen the leads. It stuck there and some wick strands came off. From bad to really bad...
I eventually got them all out with a little effort. But the bridge resisted. I finally took a needle and physically scrathed between the leads really carefully. And voila!
 
Everything cleared up, I resoldered the pieces missing and connected the USB. Devices showed up and everything seems to be Ok!
I did desolder the audio leads, so I could not test the audio. That will be done ASAP.
 
Thanks for all your help!