the CTH (Compact Tube Hybrid) Rev A thread...
Mar 8, 2012 at 11:13 PM Post #421 of 607
That is one cool looking CTH! It might be cool to get a socket saver so the tube sticks out more. The side effect of this is the tube has more ventilation.
 
Mar 9, 2012 at 5:47 AM Post #422 of 607
 
Quote:
 
Pin 1 to Pin 6 is .6v - across 2 tubes... just making sure, but heater switch "ON' is 6.3v with the default resistor values, using H1 & H2?


Now that's some unique casing:)
We don't look for measurements between the 2 plates, we are looking for 80v or so for each of pin 1 & 6 WRT ground SG/IG.
Yes heater switch on = 6v, open = 12v.   Your CTH seems healthy so far, maybe time for listening:)
 
Mar 9, 2012 at 9:01 AM Post #423 of 607
DOH... maybe...  tonight.  :)
 
Proving, once again, that there is a DIY Lowest Common Denominator - no matter how many projects you have logged.
 
 
 
Mar 9, 2012 at 9:22 AM Post #424 of 607
Don't be so hard on yourself man,  esp for DIY things that happen later at night.
Otherwise I might have to tell my story about dialing up VR2 on a b22 board thinking I was adjusting the offset:/
 
Mar 9, 2012 at 8:29 PM Post #426 of 607
Yep, all fine - just need to let it burn in.   :)
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 1:14 PM Post #427 of 607
Ok gang - need your experience and wisdom. While trouble-shooting why I was missing my left channel, I attempted a measurement between pins 4 & 5 of the tube socket. At that moment, I figured out that I shouldn't do that :) Wasn't sure if readings should have been taken relative to SG, or between 4 & 5. As a result, I no longer go green. I still measure 12V at OG, but no longer at OL and OR. In reading/studying the diagrams, It seems likely that I popped the BJT's in the rail splitter. Any help in the steps to track down the problem would as always, be greatly appreciated.
 
And another newbie question. When doing the diode test on the BJT's, should it ALWAYS read 0 with black lead center red L/R when the transistor is installed in a non-powered board?
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 9:43 PM Post #428 of 607
Went to order some parts at Mouser, and found this out of stock:
 
71-RN55D-F-22.1/R
R9L+R,R10+R,R2S,R3S
71-RN55D-F-22.1/R
1/8watt 22.1ohms
 
Any suggestions on a replacement? It's not coming back in stock till May.
 
Mar 11, 2012 at 7:40 AM Post #430 of 607
http://www.head-fi.org/t/417322/cavalli-compact-tube-hybrid-cth-tube-tweak-thread/630#post_8133807   and before for someone else's buffer repair.
 
BTW you are supposed to measure V between tube heater pins 4 & 5 that's part of the diag instructions from my sig.
But you aren't supposed to short something while doing it:).  Taping your probes tips such that only a mm or so is exposed helps.
. Meter resistance won't cause problems in voltage setting BUT amperage setting would for example.
 
Mar 11, 2012 at 10:33 AM Post #431 of 607
Thanks for the clarification. My pins are taped and I really thought I got in without shorting, but apparently not. I was testing V. Any suggestions on where to start if OL and OR are not up to V?
 
Quote:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/417322/cavalli-compact-tube-hybrid-cth-tube-tweak-thread/630#post_8133807   and before for someone else's buffer repair.
 
BTW you are supposed to measure V between tube heater pins 4 & 5 that's part of the diag instructions from my sig.
But you aren't supposed to short something while doing it:).  Taping your probes tips such that only a mm or so is exposed helps.
. Meter resistance won't cause problems in voltage setting BUT amperage setting would for example.



 
 
Mar 18, 2012 at 1:04 PM Post #433 of 607
 
Hey all - t I could really use your help. My CTH is output 24V from the reg, but I have no output on OL and OR.I'm trying to learn the CTH circuit and electronics, and I've hit a wall. 
 
Here's some readings that seem interesting to me, and may be of help to you.
 
K1E (Relay)
 
Pin 1: ~24V
Pin 2: ~23.4V
Pin 3: ~23.4V
Pin 4: ~
 
Pin 5: ~24V
Pin 6: ~12V
Pin 7: ~12V
Pin 8: ~
 
IC1
 
Pin 1: ~6.8V
Pin 2: ~12V
Pin 3: ~12V
Pin 4: ~
Pin 5: ~24V
Pin 6: ~20V
Pin 7: ~11.8V
Pin 8: 23V
 
IC1S
Pin 1: ~203mv
Pin 2: ~12V
Pin 3: ~12V
Pin 4: ~
Pin 5: ~203mv
Pin 6: ~24V
Pin 7: ~12.7V
Pin 8: ~
 
Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated. 
 
 
Mar 20, 2012 at 7:34 PM Post #434 of 607
Anyone? 
blink.gif

 
Mar 21, 2012 at 7:01 AM Post #435 of 607
Well prior to the apparent mishap during your heater measurement I suggested some things in this post:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/542279/the-cth-compact-tube-hybrid-rev-a-thread/405#post_8196001

Now that you also seem to have problems in your railsplitter and/or output buffer, using the shotgun approach, I'd replace all the BC* TO92s in both. If a full-on inspection showed no wrong devices, orientations or solder joints.
Others could suggest likely parts to replace in order of replacement but that can lead to frustration so I've done the above and ended up happy.
 

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