[DrSheep]

I think this will give you some insight into your issue.
 
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/7252724?start=0&tstart=0

 

[DrSheep]

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[DrSheep]

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[DrSheep]

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[DrSheep]

Damn government computer for quad posts...

 

[tonywinky]

hi,
 
I want to use my ak320 as a source for my speakers(B&W 685 S2), what is the best option for the amp and use as possible qualities of the dap.
The optical line out bypass dac but also the femto clock?

 

[Dan E]

Hi all,

For me an additional Hugo is a no go, since I would like to use the player on a mobile base (and having a phone and one player in my pocket it pretty much all I can/want to carry).

Therefore I would like to ask, whether the AK 320 is the best standalone option I have. I read that a lot of lovers here are in favor of the 320, but I would still be happy about more opinions, especially compared to the AK 380 without a Hugo. Furthermore, can anyone compare the sound quality of the AK 320/80 to the hifiman 901s? I read the sound to be astonishing and was surprised to find only one single short list mentioning the hifiman. What's the flaw of that player? How does both the 320 and the 901s compare to the paw gold?

I am using the fitear 335 (SR upgraded).

Thanks!

 

[level3]

  hi,
 
I want to use my ak320 as a source for my speakers(B&W 685 S2), what is the best option for the amp and use as possible qualities of the dap.
The optical line out bypass dac but also the femto clock?

 

The AK320’s 3.5mm port is also a mini-Toslink (optical) out. How you ‘plug in’ determines the output.
 
1) A 3.5mm mini-Toslink plug < cable > Toslink plug delivers raw signals to an off-board DAC (no internal 2x AKM4490 processing + 200 Femto-seconds clocking).
 
To use the unit as a standalone player + DAC (with all the ‘benefits’ of on-board digital processing/filtering) delivering electrical signals to an amplifier/active speaker system, connect with:
 
2) a 3.5mm (unbalanced) headphone plug < cable > 2 RCA plugs cable for unbalanced output.
 
3) a 3.5mm (unbalanced) + 2.5mm (balanced) plugs < cable > 2 x Neutrik plugs cable for ‘optimal’ balanced output.
 
Check out shop.iriver.com = PEF14 and PEF21 cables. Other options are also available on the www.
 
Most hi-fi amps have RCA input ports. If you prefer balanced, choose an amp with the requisite ports.
 
Opinions differ on whether the ‘benefits’ of balanced connections are audible on a desktop/HP rig. Depends on who/what you wish to believe

 

[level3]

Hi all,

For me an additional Hugo is a no go, since I would like to use the player on a mobile base (and having a phone and one player in my pocket it pretty much all I can/want to carry).

Therefore I would like to ask, whether the AK 320 is the best standalone option I have. 

I am using the fitear 335 (SR upgraded).

Thanks!

 

It may be better for you to listen/play around with all the portable DAPs mentioned and decide.
 
If your basic needs/wants are:
 
1) pocket-ability
2) standalone performance, including reference-level portable SQ in today’s context, and
3) adequate juice to drive the 335s…
 
…then, it would be hard to go wrong with the 320, 380 or Gold… although you might need more robust pockets for the Gold.
 
‘Best’ on a personal level would depend on preferences, priorities and purchasing power.

 

[Dan E]

is the 901s the same level as the 320/ paw ? And how does the paw perform compared to the 320? In Hong Kong there is only one dealer selling the hifiman (and no AKs), so I can't get a direct comparison.

 

[level3]

is the 901s the same level as the 320/ paw ? And how does the paw perform compared to the 320? In Hong Kong there is only one dealer selling the hifiman (and no AKs), so I can't get a direct comparison.

Cannot comment on the 901s because I have not listened to music played by this DAP.
For one listening impression of the PAW Gold, please flip a few pages back on this thread.

 

[tonywinky]

   

The AK320’s 3.5mm port is also a mini-Toslink (optical) out. How you ‘plug in’ determines the output.
 
1) A 3.5mm mini-Toslink plug < cable > Toslink plug delivers raw signals to an off-board DAC (no internal 2x AKM4490 processing + 200 Femto-seconds clocking).
 
To use the unit as a standalone player + DAC (with all the ‘benefits’ of on-board digital processing/filtering) delivering electrical signals to an amplifier/active speaker system, connect with:
 
2) a 3.5mm (unbalanced) headphone plug < cable > 2 RCA plugs cable for unbalanced output.
 
3) a 3.5mm (unbalanced) + 2.5mm (balanced) plugs < cable > 2 x Neutrik plugs cable for ‘optimal’ balanced output.
 
Check out shop.iriver.com = PEF14 and PEF21 cables. Other options are also available on the www.
 
Most hi-fi amps have RCA input ports. If you prefer balanced, choose an amp with the requisite ports.
 
Opinions differ on whether the ‘benefits’ of balanced connections are audible on a desktop/HP rig. Depends on who/what you wish to believe

Thanks, can't wish for better answer! Really help me.
 
Just one more, with 3.5 jack to RCA the dap internal amp is bypass or there will be double amp?

 

[Huwge]

Have been listening to AK 320 and find it a stunning player, it does sound marginally better than 100 mk2 but the different may also be between a brand new and used product. For my ears, the AK320 with balanced IEM sounds better than unbalanced out aid I could not hear any significant difference between unbalanced out and balanced connected to Hugo win stock Toslink. My sense is that the clock and dual DAC add a similar sprinkling of fairy dust as the Hugo when receiving an unprocessed digital signal from the AK320 (if I understand the workings of the digital out). One area where the Hugo'd version is a little better is when running harder to drive phones. I wonder whether the AK380 amp may provide this service at a lower price than with a Hugo. That said, my Hugo is going nowhere

 

[xdfjdkz]

   

The AK320’s 3.5mm port is also a mini-Toslink (optical) out. How you ‘plug in’ determines the output.
 
1) A 3.5mm mini-Toslink plug < cable > Toslink plug delivers raw signals to an off-board DAC (no internal 2x AKM4490 processing + 200 Femto-seconds clocking).
 
To use the unit as a standalone player + DAC (with all the ‘benefits’ of on-board digital processing/filtering) delivering electrical signals to an amplifier/active speaker system, connect with:
 
2) a 3.5mm (unbalanced) headphone plug < cable > 2 RCA plugs cable for unbalanced output.
 
3) a 3.5mm (unbalanced) + 2.5mm (balanced) plugs < cable > 2 x Neutrik plugs cable for ‘optimal’ balanced output.
 
Check out shop.iriver.com = PEF14 and PEF21 cables. Other options are also available on the www.
 
Most hi-fi amps have RCA input ports. If you prefer balanced, choose an amp with the requisite ports.
 
Opinions differ on whether the ‘benefits’ of balanced connections are audible on a desktop/HP rig. Depends on who/what you wish to believe

When using optical out the clock generally falls back to that of the source, regardless of DAC.

 

[teros1]

 
When using optical out the clock generally falls back to that of the source, regardless of DAC.

 
Yep, the source produces a clocked SPDIF signal, and the quality of its analog circuitry (linear and low-noise) and its clock (e.g., femto) are vital to good-sounding digital.
 
But the external DAC has its own clock, so the clocked input signal must be rationalized with the DAC's clock. This clock-recovery is done in the digital receiver circuit (usually employing a phase-locked loop AKA PLL) and optional reclocking.
 
Errors in the process contribute to jitter. In cases where both the source and external DAC are high quality -- as in AK320-to-Hugo -- minimal jitter typically ensues. However, operating a well-clocked DAP like AK320 in standalone mode -- using a common high-quality master clock for both the source and the DAC -- is the prescription for a pristine jitter-free digital signal.
 
So I would think it worthwhile to explore both external DACs and external amps in the search for best SQ for AK320 driving difficult loads.