Switchbox Design Questions
Oct 11, 2004 at 5:40 PM Post #18 of 71
Quote:

Originally Posted by Earwax
Do you have a source splitter? I have used this from parts express, but you may feel better about getting a high-end vampire tap.


Source?

This switchbox is for switching between the headphone outputs between two different outputs from two different amps.

-Ed
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 5:43 PM Post #19 of 71
OK, here is Dr. Gilmore answer, edited with his consent for security reasons.....LOL....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevin Gilmore

gsferarri's second picture is the correct one. You need 3 isolated jacks. If i was going to build it i would use the chassis mount Neutrik gold plated jacks. Then you need a 3PDT toggle switch without the center off. (ON None On) like this

http://www.electro-nc.com/miniature/minp3843.pdf

mouser part number 690-A323S1YZQ

On None On

Other versions with center off available.

Depends on what is in stock. Buy the best switch that is in stock. (my preference from other vendors would be CK or Alco)

Then a nice solid aluminum box to put it in. Like a Pomona. But really anything will do. You will need to punch the holes for the jacks.

Of course 2 wire tails and a switch and one jack works too, probably better because of less connections. The digikey part number ckn1037-nd is probably the switch I would use.



 
Oct 11, 2004 at 5:50 PM Post #20 of 71
Quote:

Originally Posted by Edwood
Source?

This switchbox is for switching between the headphone outputs between two different outputs from two different amps.

-Ed



What source(s) and how are you planning on connecting those amps?

Oh, maybe you have a source or preamp with two outputs, I don't.
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 5:57 PM Post #21 of 71
What is the difference between :-

ON - OFF - ON

and

ON - NONE - ON

confused.gif



If we get a 4PDT then we can also rig up LED's to light up and indicate which input is being passed into the output
cool.gif


Can anyone get a part number from an online source for a 3PDT switch that Dr.KG recommends?

Cheers!
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 5:58 PM Post #22 of 71
you guys are really clueless and need to do some actual research before you become self appointed audio engineers.

do you not realise there are not a small number of new members that don't know squat and read these types of posts from members with a high post count as if it were gospel ?
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 6:01 PM Post #23 of 71
Quote:

Originally Posted by rickcr42
you guys are really clueless and need to do some actual research before you become self appointed audio engineers.

do you not realise there are not a small number of new members that don't know squat and read these types of posts from members with a high post count as if it were gospel ?




If you can elaborate on what exactly is bothering you then it will make things easier. If you are going to continue in this vein then I will report your activity to another mod.

Out with what you know if you think you know so much...why hold it back?
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 6:04 PM Post #24 of 71
Quote:

Originally Posted by rickcr42
you guys are really clueless and need to do some actual research before you become self appointed audio engineers.

do you not realise there are not a small number of new members that don't know squat and read these types of posts from members with a high post count as if it were gospel ?




That's why the thread was started, to get some input as to the right way to go about things. I'm just bringing up the issues that I know of, if there's a better way to solve them, out with it!
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 6:08 PM Post #25 of 71
you guys are designing by comittee and not from any source of actual knowledge on the subject.KG throws out a quip and everyone runs to wanting to design the ultimate box.

Problem is,from the nature of the questions in the original thread our design crew want to just htrow around designer names and pick parts that are supposed too be the best just because someone else said s o anf that is a piss poor way to design anything.

i would rather have something that was a sound design with some actual science behind it than i would something that looked pretty or had the most "fad" parts.

If you guys would actually read your own thread you will see exactly what i am talking about.

I am going to put some links up in a moment and you all need to slow down and READ the actual science /theory/practice of system interconnection and grounds
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 6:12 PM Post #26 of 71
Oct 11, 2004 at 6:30 PM Post #27 of 71
OK folks,i put up some some links.

You need to read them just to get a handle on the whole system interconnection/ground concept.

even though i think this is like a dog chasing his tail I CAN understand someone wanting the best ,i just don't understand the way it is being done.

Example : how did you arrive at your layout or choices in parts ?

Because someone SAID it was the way to go ?
Because someone SAID part X is better ?
Have you done any mock ups to compare in this application ?
and do you REALLY WANT locking phone jacks on a simple little switch box ?
any of you guys ever actually drill out a panel for a nuetrick jack ?

The only reason for that choice is because it is "cool" and everyone else uses them.NOT because it would mean a better device or a more useful device but the cool factor.
That is why so many high end amp manufacturers take people for a damn ride.
You EXPECT to see certain things so the money and R&D go into front panels and catch phrases and not into sound design !

They know this and give you exactly what you expect-ten grand for an amp that could have cost $500 !
but if it was $500 you would pass right on by and start drooling over the $10K "pretty" amp even if it did not sound better.
At the price you WANT it to sound better so in your mind it does and any imperfections you hear mean it is always something else at fault.No way this pretty audio device can be letting you down ! IT COST TOO MUCH to be crap !

i never could understand this lemming rush around here to have the absolute best of everything when there is no best.Your requirements may be and most likely ARE different form mine so how in the hell can I ask or you offer a solution for my system as THE BEST when you do not have identical gear ?

Back to the switch.This subject has gotten way overblown because one or two people thread crapped on the initial post.so yeah,build your ultimate switch and good luck with it but once finished I suggest you tear out all the switches in your system and re-do them if you really and truly think spending $100 on a silly A/B switch is going to make a difference or even if you think it will best one I could make right now and in abpout five minutes with parts i have in the junk box.

Think guys ! don't fall for the hype that is thrown around here at head-fi all the time .
Hype that is not harmless when it is beleived by those who look up to the ones who know for guideance !

If i remain silent on this i would not be doing my job and even before i moderated i was always the first to jump in when i seen a thing i was not comfortable with and said

BULLSH*T ! DON"T LISTEN TO THAT !"

common sense guys.just throwing dollars at something does not make it better
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 6:44 PM Post #28 of 71
Quote:

Originally Posted by gsferrari
What is the difference between :-

ON - OFF - ON

and

ON - NONE - ON

confused.gif



With a double-throw switch, ON - NONE - ON means it's a two position switch - pushed one direction, one set of poles is connected to the center poles. Pushed the other direction, the other set of poles is connected to the center poles. ON - OFF - ON adds a center position where nothing is connected to the center poles. This is good for some applications but not really worth much here.

I think I'll stay away from adding anything but purely technical information like that
smily_headphones1.gif
.
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 6:50 PM Post #29 of 71
thanks jnewman...that clears things up
smily_headphones1.gif


Do you find anything wrong with the schematic and the way we are going about the whole switchbox thing? I cant see it getting any simpler than this...what am I doing wrong?

Cheers!
 
Oct 11, 2004 at 7:01 PM Post #30 of 71
My own switch will be for my own private use and it may end up in a brown cardboard box and wired with bell-wire for all I care, but if someone is building this to bring to head-fi meets it may increase confidence in the switch if it looks like it was made with high quality professional looking jacks, switches and wire, whether or not such things in fact make any difference to signal integrity.
 

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