[adfinni]

Well im about to order the parts for my millett MAX and have decided to sort out a nice switchbox too, as i have my marantz cd-63 and emu 0404 as sources, and my arcam amp (for speakers) and millett MAX as outputs. So il need a x2 input, x2 output box.

Right, so im a little confused with what i need with regard to rotary switches. Looked over at MB3K's site to do with his switchbox and am trying to figure his out, but with the crossfeed integrated into his im having trouble.

Im looking at using silver hookup wire as il be making some silver IC's too to hook up all the sources and amps. What lorlin switches would i need for this, and are these lorlin switches good, and also what RCA's are cheap but not too expensive, as im not sure expensive ones are worth it and have used cheap £2 ones from maplins before.

ALso, im using the same hammond enclousure as the millett max, but am stuck on why the need for shorting rotary switches and hoe on earth id wire it up?

cheers

 

[Ikrit42]

I'm pretty sure you want a non-shorting switch, one that breaks the contact before making the new one. (Shorting switches "make before break".)

You want two 3-pole (4 if you're going balanced), "2-position" rotary switches, one to select the input and one for the output.

I would say get two of these: http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=10WA127

Hook the center lugs to each other (the same ones respectively on each switch) then the 2 l/r/grounds in each to a position on the in switch, then the outs to the same positions on the out switch (l/r/g in the same place on each switch).

I went for the 4-pole, 3-position one so you could add ins/outs, or even upgrade to balanced if you want later.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[adfinni]

Many thanks thats very helpful. Even though im only using x2 ins and outs, leaving the possibility for a future upgrade is a great idea. Looking at 3pole 4 pos, but the 4pole 3 pos confuses me as it has x2 sets of left + right, whereas the 3pole 4 pos has the simple left, right, and ground.

But i read on mb3k's site that he used shorting switches in his switchbox, im confused why one is needed over the other, and could damage be caused to any equipment if the wrong one is used?

http://www.mb3k.com/socram.html

 

[Pars]

Quote:

Originally Posted by adfinni /img/forum/go_quote.gif Many thanks thats very helpful. Even though im only using x2 ins and outs, leaving the possibility for a future upgrade is a great idea. Looking at 3pole 4 pos, but the 4pole 3 pos confuses me as it has x2 sets of left + right, whereas the 3pole 4 pos has the simple left, right, and ground. But i read on mb3k's site that he used shorting switches in his switchbox, im confused why one is needed over the other, and could damage be caused to any equipment if the wrong one is used? http://www.mb3k.com/socram.html

Shorting switches are otherwise known as "make-before-break", meaning that you shouldn't get a pop when you go from one position to the next.

What Arcam have you got? If its an integated amp, couldn't you use its switching, and put your headphone amp on its tape outs? That's what I do with my current preamp, but all the switching in it works if it is off.

Nice site (mb3k)! Very well done.

 

[adfinni]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pars /img/forum/go_quote.gif Shorting switches are otherwise known as "make-before-break", meaning that you shouldn't get a pop when you go from one position to the next. What Arcam have you got? If its an integated amp, couldn't you use its switching, and put your headphone amp on its tape outs? That's what I do with my current preamp, but all the switching in it works if it is off. Nice site (mb3k)! Very well done.

Im not knowledgable when it comes to preamps, and for the record my arcam is the delta 290 integrated. Awesome amp even though it's about 10 years old, and i think it does have tape outs.

Well with this switchbox i was plannnig on having:
INPUTS: RCA's from EMU 0404 soundcard, and RCA's from marantz cd-63
OUTPUTS: Arcam delta 290 amp (for speakers), and Millett MAX (for headphones).

Which lorlin switch do you recommend for that as im having trouble figuring out what all the different poles actually mean, as well as which shorting or non-shorting is needed?

ta

 

[MASantos]

you told you are still building you millett? Why don't you build the switchbox "inside" the millett; making the millet somehow a pre-amplifier? It wouldn't adjust the volume, but only the source.

YOu can have the rotary switch to select the inputs, directly connected to the millet inputs, and then have a simple loop out coming directly from the source inputs. This would save you lots of connections( interconnects, extra solder points, longer distances), and keep you setup alot more simple.

 

[adfinni]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MASantos /img/forum/go_quote.gif you told you are still building you millett? Why don't you build the switchbox "inside" the millett; making the millet somehow a pre-amplifier? It wouldn't adjust the volume, but only the source. YOu can have the rotary switch to select the inputs, directly connected to the millet inputs, and then have a simple loop out coming directly from the source inputs. This would save you lots of connections( interconnects, extra solder points, longer distances), and keep you setup alot more simple.

Oooo that does sound awesome, but my millett MAX enclosure is going to be pretty packed, plus with me starting work soon (hopefully) i was planning on upgrading to a singlepower amp when i have the money. I see the switchbox as being a long term investment that i can use for a long time.

Considering the Lorlin 3-pole 4-position, Shorting Rotary Switch (Mouser-10WA366) that mb3k used in his so i can have 4 inputs/outputs, and i would make one input a 3.5mm jack so i can hook up my ipod with it's line out.