Stiff Re-Cables
Aug 6, 2014 at 8:35 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 10

mkmossop

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I did my first re-cable recently and found the finished product very stiff. When wearing them the cable will stick out like a foot from my body because it's so stiff and won't hang nicely. All I did was shrink tube a Mogami cable and then cover the bottom with paracord.
 
Stupidly I worked the cable a bunch with my hands to try to de-stiffen it, which worked partly, but also messed up the cable which now doesn't work properly.
 
So anyway, is there any way around this stiffness issue, or if shrink tubing always so stiff?
 
Aug 14, 2014 at 11:09 AM Post #2 of 10
What Mogami wire did you use? There's a number of factors that go into the stiffness of a cable, including strand count (a 7 strand wire will be less flexible than a 49 strand count wire at the same gauge), gauge size (24 gauge is a good thickness for headphone recables), dielectric thickness and material and jacket thickness and material. As you mentioned, shrink tubing adds stiffness as well. 
 
Aug 27, 2014 at 3:53 AM Post #3 of 10
Thanks for the reply.
 
I used Mogami 2893 Mini Quad Cable... not sure how many strands that is. I don't think the Mogami itself was too stiff... it was mostly the shrink tubing. I suppose I could leave that out and just use para cord, but I'd be worried about the Mogami cables becoming untwisted without the shrink tubing.
 
Aug 29, 2014 at 11:11 PM Post #4 of 10
I suggest getting some silicone wire and braiding your cable, heat shrink isn't required to hold a braid(only helps getting cable made). I used 22-24 gauge, it's fantastic, feels lovely smooth and compliant. I haven't sheathed silicone so I'm not sure how that would go. If you want a fancier look 6-8 strands make a prettier braid than 4 and still very flexible.

 
 
Sep 2, 2014 at 10:28 PM Post #5 of 10
Thanks! This stuff looks good...
 
https://www.commonsenserc.com/parent_info.php?parents_id=35
 
How exactly do I make a y-split with a cable like this?
 
Edit: Nvm I see... I need to braid 4 different cables together.
 
So 24 gauge isn't too light? Lighter would be better since I need it to be flexible when all 4 are braided together.
 
Sep 3, 2014 at 6:44 PM Post #6 of 10
Could someone let me know if 24 or 26 gauge cables from the link posted above would be decent for headphones (Audio Technica ATH-ESW9 if it matters)? I'm looking to order something ASAP and don't wanna get the wrong thing.
 
Thanks!
 
Sep 3, 2014 at 11:46 PM Post #7 of 10
24 gauge silicone would be excellent, from memory a mogami quad extremely popular round here uses 24 or 26gauge so it's fine for sound quality. I see the esw9 has wires going to each cup, what I would do if I had that to work with is use 12 strands of 26gauge and braid them, 6 to each cup, eliminating a y split. Braiding so many wires isn't an easy task though. For flexibility reference I have a unterminated 8x22g cable that wraps around my finger easily.
 
Sep 10, 2014 at 11:52 PM Post #9 of 10
I haven't used mogami for my own reasons, however silicone is much more flexible than any similar sized plastic it's just a fact, silicone wire is typically much finer stranded too which makes a big difference. There would still be a y spit but you'd be spared what some consider an ugly contrivance such a heat shrink split/bead/whatever, a personal hate of mine

 
 
Sep 11, 2014 at 11:52 AM Post #10 of 10
You find these to be more flexible than the Mogami though?


 


I don't understand how that eliminates a y-split... you still have to split each 6 to each cup.

 


He's saying you would run 12 wires, 6 to each side all the way down to your trs jack. so yes there would still be a y off but you wont have to solder extra ground wire because you will already have enough wires running the full length.
 

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