[vtr1000]

This mod sounded interesting as it's cheap & totally reversible, so I gave it a go on my SHP9500s with some countersunk 15x3mm N52 magnets comprising a 4mm hole. With a single magnet each side it made a noticable change and stacking a second made that difference more prominent. It was interesting as they sounded more dynamic with the both the highs and lows extending further and with increased soundstage. It sounded like an improvement but with time it became fatiguing and I also found that it made the headphones fussy with music and sources - I was no longer able to enjoy these headphones when plugged into a dongle dac or when playing anything recorded less than perfectly. For this reason, I've removed the magnets and will find a use for them in the garage instread...

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Sorry for leaving party back in the day
I did try the mod
And did try to make hallbach back in the day(impossible with N52 and human hands)

It does take away magnetic flux concentration from coil but overall flux increases. This kinda make diaphragm for fast while restricting its max Xmas(this is my theory) limiting Xmas action, I feel, give these cheap speaker a planar like hit.. because consumer driver are meant to designed to go loose(under-engineered stuff).
Having it in repulsion orientation, the concentration increases and stock flux remains same.. this leads to more excursion and loudness, which forces the diaphragm and causes distortion.

Theoritically, the repulsion orientation is what you want for way higher flux concentration but the diaphragm becomes bottleneck

The second one has its own advantage there, but stray feilds are bad..
I mean, a pencil sharpner got attracted to my headphone, which the grill protected...lel

Better get some mu metal tape and some steel to make this mod better and redirect stray feilds is the way to go

 

[frank2908]

Where do you guys get the magnet? İm looking for N50-52 axial round magnet, 3x3 but not sure buying from aliexpress, they can swap n35 and 52

 

[Ghoostknight]

Oh interesting thread, im always up for cheap diy mods

Did anyone try this on the beyerdynamics DT880 250ohm yet?

 

[Xynon]

Oh interesting thread, im always up for cheap diy mods

Did anyone try this on the beyerdynamics DT880 250ohm yet?

Got some N50 15x3mm solid magnets coming in this week for my DT880 600ohm.

 

[Xynon]

update:

n50 (solid without hole) magnets are strong as heck, feels like they could peel the skin of my finger lol.
the back of the dt880 (990 too prob) can fit up to 20mm magnets, my 15mm magnets are a bit undersized but it also helps with the thing I am going to mention.

dt880 is the beyer with the metal mesh covering the bass ports on the driver.

15mm x 3mm magnets are already a tight fit behind the mesh, so 20mm x 3mm would probably still fit but may pop off the mesh, idk.
Anything thicker than 3mm is not going to work, and will have to go on top of the mesh. Speaking of which, the sound quality seems much worse with magnets on top of the mesh rather than under it.

Going 1x magnet under mesh sound improves, 1x under and 1x over (mesh between) makes it worse, and 2x over is about as bad as the previous. Didn't try 1x over sadly.
When it gets better the sound gets faster and more punchy (going back makes the old sound sound much more detached from the rhythm), but when it gets worse it feels like it's so punchy it's trying too hard and losing detail in the process.

I settled with 1x magnet under mesh on both sides. Fits nicely while bending the mesh but not popping the screen off. Hasn't budged after a week.
Also installed the custom cans mass loading / damping kit (V1) after a week or so of the magnets. I only used the lead weights that go around the outside of the driver island thing and not the ones on top, since the magnet would conflict with those. In hindsight, I probably should have went with V2 kit since it has only copper rings and not lead weights that goes on top of the island behind the driver.

Damping seemed to help the sound even more, the weights though didn't do as much, maybe because the magnets is already mass loading the driver more than the half-weight set I used.

FYI: I'm driving these off of an samson S-amp with apple dongle as dac, sounds way better than UMC22 + Fosi P1 (worst), UMC22 (decent).

 

[bagwell359]

I don't like the CC copper & foam mod on my HD-600, and it seems impossible to get it back to stock. Or nearly stock, I already put bits of dynamat on the back (not blocking the vents) which reduced some bass resonances (good IMO).

Unlike the rear screens on HFM round cups which I think are not tuned properly, the rear screens of the HD-600 and that little smidge of foam are key to the tuning. So I started thinking about paper/fabric filters and magnets. I thought about using magnetic tape, or putty shaped to match the magnet on the back, or a ring magnet.

Any thoughts/experience?

I’ve also wondered about the HFM OG HE-6 6 screw and the “code sex” mod. It’s been suggested that the the Mylar was cryo treated (doubtful) or that there is a filter fabric/filter (some good evidence for that), but what about doing something magnetic?

Just started thinking about these issues. Any pointers, etc. welcome. Thanks.

 

[bagwell359]

One thing I’m not seeing is the notion of increasing magnetic strength to both N and S magnets. Just doing the N center pole may not be ideal.

 

[dakanao]

What would the sound difference between a small magnet (like on the pics of Slater) and an identically sized magnet? Both with the same strength and size hole in the middle.

 

[dakanao]

So I tried a 15mm diameter magnet on my open back CAL, with rear sticker removed, in the attracted position. It made it less sensitive and less smooth, it was even worse in the repelling position.

It got me thinking, wouldn't a potmagnet be best for this? It shields the outer layer of the magnet with steel, so the magnetic field is redirected on the upside only, where the center hole is.