Speaker Sensitivity and Amplification
Mar 17, 2009 at 9:38 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 4

mencargo

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I own a pair of NSM Audio 15 speakers, and I'm looking for a good class D/T amp.

The thing is that NSM Audio gives poor information:
NSM Model 15 Bookshelf Speaker - nsmaudio.com

Power Specs:
Sensitivity: 87dB 1/watt/m
Rated Impedance: 8 ohms
Recommended amplifier: 35-200 watts

So, even if they recommend big amplification, this may be intended for big places. For indoor 4x4 m2 room I may not need to spend all my money in a big amp.

Checking at a Speakers Sensitivity explanation:
http://www.integratedaudio.com/help/sensitivity.pdf

I feel I can calculate exactly how much power I need, but I don't really know how much dB is considered "high volume".

Can anyone help me out?
 
Mar 17, 2009 at 12:02 PM Post #2 of 4
Here's how I estimate my power usage. It's going to be an estimate, at best, until you get to measuring exactly how much power your amp is pushing out during a listening session. Also, there's often a substantial difference between your average power requirements and the power requirements during peaks - just how much will depend on the music/recording.

I have a Radioshack SPL meter I've used at my sitting position during listening. Average levels hitting the mid-80's in dBs is fairly crankin' with rock music. It's quite loud. I've seen peaks go to the mid-90's during such sessions, but not to 100dB (that I can remember). So, let's say I wanted to estimate out how much power handing a peak of 100db requires in my setup:

Start with speaker sensitivity - yours are 87db/Watt/1 meter. I doubt you're going to sit only 1 meter away, so you have to attenuate for your actual distance. SPL is cut by 6dB every time distance doubles. So say you wanted to sit 2.6 meters away (in your room size this is about as much as you can get), the equation is:
db attenuation = 6*log_base_2(actual_distance / 1 meter)
For the case of 2.6 meters, we get -8.27db
(* if you don't have a calculator on hand that does log_base_2, use the equality: log_base_2(x)=log_base_y(x)/log_base_y(2))

Next, consider that you have stereo speakers; this doubles the output power because it consists of 2 channels.
For this, you get +3dB

Next, consider room gain. You will gain some dBs of loudness by virtue of all the sonic energy getting reflected back to your ears at subsequent passes that may have missed your ears on first pass (your speakers, being monopoles, radiate sonic energy in all directions - some of this is absorbed and some reflected back into the room in a different direction). This is going to be a guess at best, maybe you can google it to see if you can get an estimator for rectangular rooms of various sizes. Ignoring bass modes, smaller rooms will have higher gains. I would guess 3db-6db. 4db would likely be a safe bet for your small room (it's probably more). This is DEFINITELY the fuzziest part of these calculations.
So, +4db here.

Now, we're at 87dB - 8.27dB + 3dB + 4dB, which totals about 85.7dB at your sitting position FOR 1 WATT POWER. So, how much will it take to increase this by 14.3db to 100db:
db = 10*log_base_10(amp_power / 1 Watt)
=> 10^(14.3/10) = amp power, in Watts
=> you need 26.9 Watts

Now, a good robust amp will likely have at least 3db of dynamic headroom for handling transient peaks. So in reality, you could count on such a stereo amp rated for 24 continuous Watts per channel to give you 100db peaks. If your average level is 85db, this will only require LESS THAN 1 WATT, which means your amp will be running quite comfortably most of the time! You can also see how high efficiency speakers really take the burden off of your power requirements...a 93dB/Watt/Meter speaker would require only a 6 Watts/ch amp (9 Watts peak handling) for the same parameters as above!

You have many options at 25Watts+. I'm partial to some of the respected vintage tube amps once restored; you get a lot of sound quality for the money if you only need 25 Watts or so. Also, the pure class-A SS amps are available at this power level.
 
Mar 17, 2009 at 5:15 PM Post #3 of 4
Awesome, I didn't have a clue for the attenuation.
So 100dB is considered loud?
And if I don't want to wake everyone I guess a 20W amp will do.

The thing is I would like to try Class-D/T amps, because they cost less than $100 for 20w stereo output, and they come in many forms:
Amphony microFidelity Amplifier, Model 100
41Hz audio amp kits. Sounds good to me! Tripath based amplifiers for DIY:ers.
Sonic Impact Technologies - Sonic Tio Board

I'm very curious about the Sonic Impact Tio Board, because it's powered by a computer PSU molex, so it gets 5V, and almost any computer PSU deliver steady voltage. That sounds amazing considering 30w!!

So I don't think I can try a vintage tube amp for this amount of money, can I?
 
Mar 17, 2009 at 8:03 PM Post #4 of 4
Well, I consider 100dB VERY LOUD
smily_headphones1.gif

Should be more than sufficient for the needs of most. A good 20 Watts should be perfectly fine. Hopefully, the amp will stay relatively well-behaved as it's pushed towards or even past its limits - that's what good tube amps and some of the better solid state amps should provide.

I haven't personally heard one of the T-amps myself. The class D amps I've heard are from PS Audio (HCA-2, GCA-100) and they sound VERY good, though it's hard to imagine why they cost so much. I think for your budget and power needs, a class-D or T amp is almost certainly the way to go.

You're right that a good vintage amp plus restoration costs is going to be quite a bit more. I should have clarified that I like them in comparison to modern amps in the range of $1K to several $Ks
smily_headphones1.gif
 

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