3602
Banned at his own request
- Joined
- May 30, 2009
- Posts
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Forgot to add the most important thing:
DO NOT USE THE PCM-D50 WITH BALANCED ARMATURE MONITORS with the possible exception of the Westone UM3x. You're heading into a Greek tragedy if you do this.
Also, even with the UM3x, be prepared to crash your money into Comply tips.
Let me begin by saying that I am not suggesting the usage of the Sony PCM-D50 as a DAP. Its playback functions are extremely limited (well, still a bit more than the seemingly very nice QLS QA350) and its... Um, features, are uh, special. But we'll get to that.
I'm spewing this out here for fun. Also because tomorry is Quebec-will-be-independent-one-day day and I get to eat some cake. Yes I'm very much into Portal right now.
I am expecting little click-rate and I'm telling you this right now, please don't waste your time commenting unless! Unless you use this device as a DAP too.
I will not comment on its sound but I will try to provide paths, however clear or unclear, towards a vague construction of its sound. I can only point you to the road, it is you who have to walk on it and step on a land-mine or three. Or some animal waste. Trust me, the first danger is better if it bakes you clean and not just a leg.
Also don't do the buy-try-return thing on pieces with such price-tags unless, of course, you have a Blue in your wallet and an Orange above an incinerator (you have money to burn). Granted, Sony Style, BHPV or SweetWater will accept your return (the occasional playing-nice may be required) but you may leave a black mark as per comment sense (I don't have any, so I'm relying on you here), a person does research before purchasing a $600-800 (depending from whom you purchase) semi-pro piece of electronic brick. Hey now, now that I've mentioned the term "brick"...
Food for thought (apparently this is also a cheat-code in StarCraft 1, not sure about the 2. I firmly believe that if a classic is made in 2D or 2½D, it should stay that way)
I'm not going to make counter-points for each one, since I'm not a one-man debate team.
So the plus side to this? Well, again, it is a recorder. A semi-pro one at that. What is to be known is that the headphone output is used for live monitoring and immediate off-field playback. To avoid the "Aww man, we need to redo the whole thing!", by common sense (relying on you again, sorry), the output should have the most fidelity and clarity possible. It also has 25mW + 25mW "or more" at 16ohms. Hard data provided by Sony.
I am going to tell you something that more and more D50 players are doing: Battery-rolling. Rolling as in "tube-rolling". What these people would do is to use 2x LiFePO4 batteries, each one being 3.3V, plus two metal wires for the two empty battery slots. They claim that the combined voltage, 6.6V, being higher than the standard "just 6V", provides "a more powerful sound" while using four Ni-MH batteries, having only 4.8V combined, gives the D50 "a softer, more gentle sound". They do so to tune the D50 according to the phones they use. To these people, I say Get a LiFe. But I tell you, having only two "real" batteries does reduce the overall mass noticeably.
I do have some other things to point out about the D50, but I consider them neither to be faults nor goodness.
So finally, the tips:
Also, it's Sony.
Cave Johnson, we're done here.
DO NOT USE THE PCM-D50 WITH BALANCED ARMATURE MONITORS with the possible exception of the Westone UM3x. You're heading into a Greek tragedy if you do this.
Also, even with the UM3x, be prepared to crash your money into Comply tips.
Let me begin by saying that I am not suggesting the usage of the Sony PCM-D50 as a DAP. Its playback functions are extremely limited (well, still a bit more than the seemingly very nice QLS QA350) and its... Um, features, are uh, special. But we'll get to that.
I'm spewing this out here for fun. Also because tomorry is Quebec-will-be-independent-one-day day and I get to eat some cake. Yes I'm very much into Portal right now.
I am expecting little click-rate and I'm telling you this right now, please don't waste your time commenting unless! Unless you use this device as a DAP too.
I will not comment on its sound but I will try to provide paths, however clear or unclear, towards a vague construction of its sound. I can only point you to the road, it is you who have to walk on it and step on a land-mine or three. Or some animal waste. Trust me, the first danger is better if it bakes you clean and not just a leg.
Also don't do the buy-try-return thing on pieces with such price-tags unless, of course, you have a Blue in your wallet and an Orange above an incinerator (you have money to burn). Granted, Sony Style, BHPV or SweetWater will accept your return (the occasional playing-nice may be required) but you may leave a black mark as per comment sense (I don't have any, so I'm relying on you here), a person does research before purchasing a $600-800 (depending from whom you purchase) semi-pro piece of electronic brick. Hey now, now that I've mentioned the term "brick"...
Food for thought (apparently this is also a cheat-code in StarCraft 1, not sure about the 2. I firmly believe that if a classic is made in 2D or 2½D, it should stay that way)
- It is the size of a brick. Well, almost to the size of your poor-country red-mud baked brick. It's not as bit as a WM-D6C, which is sincerely the size of a red-mud brick. Hey, I'm just GLaD that it ain't a cinder-block. That's a StellaDAT.
- The mass. The unit itself is surprisingly light, considering its almost-all-metal construction. However, if you consider its battle mass (packed with four AA batteries and a Memory Stick), it becomes substantial. It weighs about 453 grams, or basically one full pound. When I get my hands on the iRiver H340, a machine that weighs about 200 grams - less than half the battle mass of the D50, I should really feel the relief effort.
- The looks. Trust me, it is much more TSA-friendly than, say, your common iPod + Amp rig with bright lights and oil pipelines everywhere, but you walk around (depending on how - that's covered below) with this, you will get looks. I don't care, since I used to listen to the D6C and swap tapes on the bus and all, but you most probably will care. Due to the metal roll-cage and the two little capsules, most of looks you'll get is of the "What in the name of GLaDOS is that?" variety and not the "OMG I want that!" one. It also has flashing lights but they can be turned off.
- And finally, it is a recorder, for Cubes' sakes. I use this because I actually do record, and I have no other DAP (well OK, there's the fail-safe Discman D-32 I have...). Please don't buy this device just for its sound. If you think this is not believable, then here be my defense: Some people have $3'000+ full-frame cameras and 10x that in lenses just to shoot bridges. I guess their defense would be bridges are awesome or Some people buy HD trucks to do town-cruising. Also, some people juggle geese.
I'm not going to make counter-points for each one, since I'm not a one-man debate team.
So the plus side to this? Well, again, it is a recorder. A semi-pro one at that. What is to be known is that the headphone output is used for live monitoring and immediate off-field playback. To avoid the "Aww man, we need to redo the whole thing!", by common sense (relying on you again, sorry), the output should have the most fidelity and clarity possible. It also has 25mW + 25mW "or more" at 16ohms. Hard data provided by Sony.
I am going to tell you something that more and more D50 players are doing: Battery-rolling. Rolling as in "tube-rolling". What these people would do is to use 2x LiFePO4 batteries, each one being 3.3V, plus two metal wires for the two empty battery slots. They claim that the combined voltage, 6.6V, being higher than the standard "just 6V", provides "a more powerful sound" while using four Ni-MH batteries, having only 4.8V combined, gives the D50 "a softer, more gentle sound". They do so to tune the D50 according to the phones they use. To these people, I say Get a LiFe. But I tell you, having only two "real" batteries does reduce the overall mass noticeably.
I do have some other things to point out about the D50, but I consider them neither to be faults nor goodness.
- It supports only WAV and MP3 files. WAV ripped from your CD or the HD-WAV of 24bit/96KHz will work. Any higher and it won't. It also doesn't support surround. But! Converting FLAC to WAV is a breeze.
- Line-out and optical digital-out. The former can be used to mount an amp, but please don't. You'll end up being even less TSA-friendly than the iPod things. The latter is good for direct file transfers if your sound device has a digital input, then you'll need no USB cable. Also you can use a DAC with it, but it most probably has to remain stationary since while portable optical DAC-Amps does exist, if you bind it to the D50, you'll end up with that TSA problem. So it has to remain stationary, but your computer can probably output digital signals so what's the point of using it with a DAC?
- It is solid enough to be used as a weapon, either offensive or defensive. A good smash hurts. An excellent smash knocks out. A very hard and well-placed smash can kill. Then you walk away listening to music on that weapon you just used. If you have a solid piece of string, you can attach it to the wrist-strap loop and use it as a flail. Just don't throw it as it most probably will not survive a close encounter with a brick wall. Note that I am NOT SUGGESTING to use the D50 as a weapon as doing so too frequently can hurt the device and you'll get gibs in the microphones, which are hard to clean. Also you'll get in trouble with the law.
So finally, the tips:
- For ease of carrying, buy the Sony leather case for it. If you can afford the machine itself with no problems, you have no reason not to afford the leather case. It's like Hummers and gas prices: If you cry that the gas is too expensive, then how can you afford a Hummer in the first place? The Sony case has a belt loop and all the side access jacks are exposed. It helps when you walk around with it.
- Alternatively, a PSP case might do. I don't know whether there is a substantial size difference between the PSP-1000, the 2000 and the 3000, but there shouldn't be. The problem is that the D50 will be fully enclosed in the case. This method is best suited for literally transporting the D50 in, say, your backpack. If you find the Sony case to be too much of a rip-off, you can get the PSP case. There may also be belt-mounted camera cases that are big enough for the D50.
- The worst way off is an angle bracket and a tripod screw. Get a slotted angle bracket or one with good holes in it. Bend it so that it will slide into your belt while remaining vertical to the ground. Snap the screw off a cheap tripod, screw it over the bracket and into the D50. You just made a cheap belt-hook!
- Hold. The D50 is blessed with the heavenly goodness of actual physical buttons (and independent Pause and Stop buttons! Thank you, Sony!). Used in conjunction with the Sony case, you will have incorrect operations of the device. Use the Hold switch, which is partially recessed in a groove and takes a bit of force to move.
- Memory Stick. The manual states that only the PRO-HG DUO of up to 4GB has been tested and guaranteed on the device. Reality is, the 16GB PRO-HG DUO works with no problems. The 32GB PRO DUO works with no problems. You can fit many CDs and many more MP3 files in these cards. However, if your D50 has a problem running the larger-capacity cards, don't go run and see Sony.
- If you can, buy the Remote Commander for it. Then you won't have to detach it from your belt, release Hold, operate, engage Hold and attach to belt again.
- Consider carrying an extra set of batteries for it. It drinks juice fairly avidly and quality AA's aren't available everywhere.
Also, it's Sony.
Cave Johnson, we're done here.