What would have been of @Whitigir DMP-Z1 if he had used the PlusSound trimetal cable?
Hiw good is the sony kimber kable with 4.4 termination for the MDR-Z1R? Got ine from amazon but they say the article delivery is pending and they dont know when. Shall i cancel it and but a plusSound cable instead?
Never heard the plusSound cable. But.......even running 4.4mm balanced out from the 1A the SonyKimber helps dial the full-size MDR-Z1R in to a nice place. Of the free gifts from Sony (which I had no choice accepting) both the free Z5 IEM I received with my 1Z and the free Kimber cable (free with MDR-Z1R) were great. Meaning I never would have purchased the Kimber; it was a free gift. But getting home I was beyond surprised by the change; you will too!
What would have been of @Whitigir DMP-Z1 if he had used the PlusSound trimetal cable?
Hiw good is the sony kimber kable with 4.4 termination for the MDR-Z1R? Got ine from amazon but they say the article delivery is pending and they dont know when. Shall i cancel it and but a plusSound cable instead?
What you have to understand is Whitigir is self tuning his equipment. Just as some like the TA amp, others feel the DAPs....have the sound. Most here are attempting to reach a tone. Who knows if people will stop? Meaning where does it stop? Does someone retire from searching. My own guess is he is getting more treble detail and less warmth. Sony has a house sound which gives someone a lot of leeway to go that direction.
What you have to understand is Whitigir is self tuning his equipment. Just as some like the TA amp, others feel the DAPs....have the sound. Most here are attempting to reach a tone. Who knows if people will stop? Meaning where does it stop? Does someone retire from searching. My own guess is he is getting more treble detail and less warmth. Sony has a house sound which gives someone a lot of leeway to go that direction.
yes, I am self tuning my equipments . Yes, the DMP-Z1 is “warm”, and this “warmth” is even more than the Wm1Z. But it isn’t bad, it is much like the listening to an analog tape deck though. The only thing is that, I would love it to be more neutral, the treble sparkles could see some more, and the soundstage could be improved. From my experiences of making many stuff, I see what needed to be done.
What would have been of @Whitigir DMP-Z1 if he had used the PlusSound trimetal cable?
Hiw good is the sony kimber kable with 4.4 termination for the MDR-Z1R? Got ine from amazon but they say the article delivery is pending and they dont know when. Shall i cancel it and but a plusSound cable instead?
I never tried Plus-Sound tri-Metal. But I did use Oyaide Tri-Metal Alpha cables and it was great for Focal Utopia. This cables has the signatures of neutrality as well, less warmth than Mundorf silver-gold alloy, better sparkles in trebles and also similar mid. The ability to put out thunderous Dynamic and excellent details retrieved from Utopia with this pairing did give the Utopia a much better soundstage.
The Neotech Silver Goldplated inside the DMP-Z1 is different as mentioned. It is just the right place to be .
yes, I am self tuning my equipments . Yes, the DMP-Z1 is “warm”, and this “warmth” is even more than the Wm1Z. But it isn’t bad, it is much like the listening to an analog tape deck though. The only thing is that, I would love it to be more neutral, the treble sparkles could see some more, and the soundstage could be improved. From my experiences of making many stuff, I see what needed to be done.
I never tried Plus-Sound tri-Metal. But I did use Oyaide Tri-Metal Alpha cables and it was great for Focal Utopia. This cables has the signatures of neutrality as well, less warmth than Mundorf silver-gold alloy, better sparkles in trebles and also similar mid. The ability to put out thunderous Dynamic and excellent details retrieved from Utopia with this pairing did give the Utopia a much better soundstage.
The Neotech Silver Goldplated inside the DMP-Z1 is different as mentioned. It is just the right place to be .
The best part of this thread (picture related) is we are not located in the Sound Science Thread. Here in this small corner we can freely talk about cable properties. In fact we don’t even question each other.
The best part of this thread (picture related) is we are not located in the Sound Science Thread. Here in this small corner we can freely talk about cable properties. In fact we don’t even question each other.
What I think is that there are 2 types that love audio: technical and enthusiasts. The sound science is people that listening to stuff with technical explanations such as graphs and proven facts....enthusiasts like us have the freedom to listen to our heart and not bound or limited by any things. See, even Technical aspects and graphs...etc...can only explain so much, but, and it is a big “but”, it will virtually create a “box” to contain someone within.
you know what I am going to say next! The best achievements from Human Kind and it history comes from whether “Thinking out of the box”, or “Accidentally”.
Then you know what people call folks who always “thinking out of the box ?” Your pictures show it very well I love it
What I think is that there are 2 types that love audio: technical and enthusiasts. The sound science is people that listening to stuff with technical explanations such as graphs and proven facts....enthusiasts like us have the freedom to listen to our heart and not bound or limited by any things. See, even Technical aspects and graphs...etc...can only explain so much, but, and it is a big “but”, it will virtually create a “box” to contain someone within.
you know what I am going to say next! The best achievements from Human Kind and it history comes from whether “Thinking out of the box”, or “Accidentally”.
Then you know what people call folks who always “thinking out of the box ?” Your pictures show it very well I love it
How do I switch between tone control and equalizer settings. I had tone control and now I have equalizer settings. Want to go back to the way it was. Appreciate your help.
Just finished doing this same upgrade on my 1A, and my initial impressions are much the same. While I wouldn't go quite so far as to say that the difference is dramatic, there are definitely noticeable improvements to soundstage and separation. I need to log more listening hours post-change, but it also seems to have tightened the bass ever so slightly. For those considering trying this - my soldering skills are pretty mediocre, but I managed without too much trouble. Many thanks to Diet Kokaine for the inspiration, and also to Whitigir for the awesome guide and pics.
Just had to share this dirt cheap upgrade to the 1A.
The internal wiring connecting the board to the 4.4mm out is really cheap stranded copper.
Changing it with Neotech OCC Solid copper 20 gauge cable makes a dramatic difference in dynamics, soundstage and clarity.
22 gauge makes the treble too peaky, and guts the bass. 20 gauge is the perfect size.
Just finished doing this same upgrade on my 1A, and my initial impressions are much the same. While I wouldn't go quite so far as to say that the difference is dramatic, there are definitely noticeable improvements to soundstage and separation. I need to log more listening hours post-change, but it also seems to have tightened the bass ever so slightly. For those considering trying this - my soldering skills are pretty mediocre, but I managed without too much trouble. Many thanks to Diet Kokaine for the inspiration, and also to Whitigir for the awesome guide and pics.
Just finished doing this same upgrade on my 1A, and my initial impressions are much the same. While I wouldn't go quite so far as to say that the difference is dramatic, there are definitely noticeable improvements to soundstage and separation. I need to log more listening hours post-change, but it also seems to have tightened the bass ever so slightly. For those considering trying this - my soldering skills are pretty mediocre, but I managed without too much trouble. Many thanks to Diet Kokaine for the inspiration, and also to Whitigir for the awesome guide and pics.
Coincidentally, I have been auditioning a K-Modded 1Z for the last 3 days. This is Music Sanctuary's own unit and has the Ultimate mod as per their site below:
The only difference is that instead of having a 14-wire PW 1960 mod on the Balanced output, this particular unit has a 24-wire mod. I have no idea how it was squeezed in.The main difference between the modded and stock unit is resolution. The modded unit has a higher resolution than stock and better clarity. It still retains Sony's warm signature but everything else is tuned up. Darker black ground, better separation + layering and wider sound stage. Another interesting point to note is that I am listening at 5-10 clicks lower volume due to improved detail retrieval.
After 3 days, I can't go back to the stock unit and I will be buying over the modded unit from MS.
I have been auditioning quite a number of TOTL DAPs (incl N8, N6ii, SP2K, QPM, LPGT, LP6k) over the last 3 months with the IER-Z1R and the main thing that pulls me back to the 1Z is how well it does vocals. The stock 1Z has prob been superseded in some areas by the new TOTL players but there is so much realism in the way it portrays vocals to me that I still cannot find another player which performs as well or better. I am not sure how much the IER-Z1R plays a role is this but the combination to me is just sublime for Vocal tracks.
I have been running in the DX220 + AMP8EX and its about close to 150hrs... I can say that this set up is more appealing to me than the TOTL players I mentioned earlier.
Its a close call between the 228EX and the modded 1Z. Both are so good but in different ways. The 228EX is more airy and with even larger stage while the 1Z has more focused vocals. So my usage split is as below:
1Z>EA Horus>IER-Z1r = audiophile vocal tracks (English+Chinese), small Jazz
228EX>PW 1960> Hayla CE-5 = Pop (English+Chinese+Jap+Kor), EDM, Jazz, Orchestral
Coincidentally, I have been auditioning a K-Modded 1Z for the last 3 days. This is Music Sanctuary's own unit and has the Ultimate mod as per their site below:
The only difference is that instead of having a 14-wire PW 1960 mod on the Balanced output, this particular unit has a 24-wire mod. I have no idea how it was squeezed in.The main difference between the modded and stock unit is resolution. The modded unit has a higher resolution than stock and better clarity. It still retains Sony's warm signature but everything else is tuned up. Darker black ground, better separation + layering and wider sound stage. Another interesting point to note is that I am listening at 5-10 clicks lower volume due to improved detail retrieval.
After 3 days, I can't go back to the stock unit and I will be buying over the modded unit from MS.
I have been auditioning quite a number of TOTL DAPs (incl N8, N6ii, SP2K, QPM, LPGT, LP6k) over the last 3 months with the IER-Z1R and the main thing that pulls me back to the 1Z is how well it does vocals. The stock 1Z has prob been superseded in some areas by the new TOTL players but there is so much realism in the way it portrays vocals to me that I still cannot find another player which performs as well or better. I am not sure how much the IER-Z1R plays a role is this but the combination to me is just sublime for Vocal tracks.
I have been running in the DX220 + AMP8EX and its about close to 150hrs... I can say that this set up is more appealing to me than the TOTL players I mentioned earlier.
Its a close call between the 228EX and the modded 1Z. Both are so good but in different ways. The 228EX is more airy and with even larger stage while the 1Z has more focused vocals. So my usage split is as below:
1Z>EA Horus>IER-Z1r = audiophile vocal tracks (English+Chinese), small Jazz
228EX>PW 1960> Hayla CE-5 = Pop (English+Chinese+Jap+Kor), EDM, Jazz, Orchestral
Try adding Oriolus BA300s amp; you'll be surprised there's even more improvement. resolution, soundstage, dynamics, its quite amazing tube amp really. It will scale up a little more in everything at trade off of a little hiss. Mind you, I'm using Andromeda, the most sensitive iem there is. Using EE phantom or SE5U, there is no hiss at all. Once I put my Andro with BA300s, I can't seem to take it off, just another song, another song and so on...
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. Yes, the DMP-Z1 is “warm”, and this “warmth” is even more than the Wm1Z. But it isn’t bad, it is much like the listening to an analog tape deck though. The only thing is that, I would love it to be more neutral, the treble sparkles could see some more, and the soundstage could be improved. From my experiences of making many stuff, I see what needed to be done.
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I love it
