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Sony MDR-R10 Owner's Club
Aug 24, 2013 at 3:05 PM Post #436 of 1,173
Hi all,

I am new to this and from the UK, I was wondering if anyone can help? My father has kindly given me his pair of MDR R10's of which if I sell them the money can go towards my honeymoon in a few months. They are in mint condition with all original leads etc. serial no 140. If anyone knows a good website to sell them on or if I can on here how I go about it, that would be most helpful. I can sort some pics out as well if need be. Regards to all.
 
Aug 24, 2013 at 4:58 PM Post #437 of 1,173
Quote:
stoky2005 said:
Hi all,

I am new to this and from the UK, I was wondering if anyone can help? My father has kindly given me his pair of MDR R10's of which if I sell them the money can go towards my honeymoon in a few months. They are in mint condition with all original leads etc. serial no 140. If anyone knows a good website to sell them on or if I can on here how I go about it, that would be most helpful. I can sort some pics out as well if need be. Regards to all.
Click to expand...


Why don't you keep it for little while?
 
Oct 21, 2013 at 5:27 PM Post #442 of 1,173
R10 Driver Repair Info:
 
This past weekend I removed a driver from one pair of R10s and put it into another to make one working pair.  The second pair got CD3000 drivers installed.
 
If I had known what I am going to tell you now, the process would have been safer.  The most dangerous part of working on R10s is in removing the drivers from the housing.  There is a great chance of ripping the hair-like voice coil wire.  Luckily, on the 2 drivers I have removed, this has not happened, but it was a close call this last time.
 
Here is a picture I stole from the web of 2 drivers (there is no writing on them usually):
 

 
You can see here the bottom of the driver after it has been removed.  The big issue is that these drivers are usually glued into the housing.  While removing the drivers, it is very easy to tear the hair-like voice coil wire which goes from that yellow spot in between the two cable wire solder points down to the driver itself, underneath the felt pad.  The driver itself sits in a wooden frame and there is a lip which it rests on.  This is then glued down so the driver and felt stick to this lip and the housing around it.
 
While removing the driver, if you just tear the driver out and allow the felt to pull away, there is a good chance you will tear the voice coil wire under the felt.  
 
So, be careful if you attempt this procedure.  I loosened the glue by using a hot air gun and covered the driver with a little piece of cardboard so as not to put heat directly on the driver.  The gun was used for about 15 seconds and this was enough to loosen the glue.
 
Just an opinion, the pair that got the CD3000 drivers sounded nowhere near an R10, in fact, it sounded terrible to me.  So don't let anyone tell you these drivers are the same, they are not.
 
Oct 22, 2013 at 12:24 PM Post #444 of 1,173
Not sure why the other driver went bad.  I did remove the white cap from the back and looked at the driver material.  It was distorted, but it was still bad even after I tried to put it back to its original shape.  I was hopeful for a bit when I saw the distortion so hooked the drivers back up but it was a no go.  
 
My guess is that something happened with the bio-cellulose material.  This pair came to me from England and I wonder if the air travel did not help?  It went bad shortly after I got it...The serial number was over 1000 so it was a much later pair, not nearly as old as some others...
 
Oct 25, 2013 at 4:15 AM Post #445 of 1,173
Thank you blubllis.
I just wonder is that issue of bio-cellulose membrane fater years and years and and it will happen with all R10 and we can't do nothing with that.
Could you hear any distortions in signal before it completely gone.

Guys what you think about this auction : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321234627988&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Hi is no feedback and I could find first picture in google imaging.
 
Oct 25, 2013 at 4:34 AM Post #446 of 1,173
bearded man said:
Thank you blubllis.
I just wonder is that issue of bio-cellulose membrane fater years and years and and it will happen with all R10 and we can't do nothing with that.
Could you hear any distortions in signal before it completely gone.

Guys what you think about this auction : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321234627988&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Hi is no feedback and I could find first picture in google imaging.
Click to expand...

It is a scam, do not bid for that under any circumstances.
 
Oct 25, 2013 at 1:12 PM Post #448 of 1,173
blubliss said:
  My bad driver is still making sound, just quieter and does not sound right.  I suspect that all the bio-cellulose drivers will go bad eventually...
Click to expand...

Could it be a mfg defect?  I know couple of people with drivers no. 4 & high SN# R10s with the same symptom.  Mine are still going strong....hopefully for a long time.
 
Oct 26, 2013 at 2:58 AM Post #449 of 1,173
Late to this thread.  Have been enjoying mine (#0017) for many years (though I bought them used).  Have an extra pair of ear pads for when the current ones give out (has anyone replaced their ear pads before?).
 
I've scaled back my headphone and amp inventory.  The R10's are currently driven by my iBasso DX100 which seems to do a pretty good job.  Makes for a nice portable rig.
 
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