[mono]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cire when you're new, you're more frustrated by lack of technique, than a cheap iron, but as you get better, a point comes where you can start blaming that piece of crap and not your skill. it took me a fair amount of time to get to that point after using the cheap weller iron my father used when he was in college. at that point, i was incredibly frustrated and was about to buy the circuit specialist clone, when my dad came home with a weller WES51. the difference is just phenominal.... does anyone actually use eye protection when soldering? i know i don't, and i've never heard of anyone who did.

Well you're not talking about just a cheap iron then, you're talking about an OLD cheap iron. While I have no trouble at all using cheap irons (given the appropriate tip of course), but I just throw them away after a a few years and they didn't get much use in that time as they are only for less-often-used places (I have a lot of different interests that require soldering). They do tend to wear out over time, especially those that don't have a replaceable heating element, the contact between it and the tip corrodes and not only conducts worse but gets loose. You can tighten it more but the contact is still not as good.

 

[saab]

In my opinion, irons do make a difference. I started using a cheap Radio shack iron, moved to a Circuit Specialist clone iron, and am now using a Metcal I found on eBay. The differences are outsatnding. The metcal reaches optimum temperature VERY quickly and maintains said temp much better. The handle never feels too hot, and is really comfortable. It is a very solid unit that I can tell will last for as long as I need it. It has made soldering a much more enjoyable experience. I would probably throw a fit if I had to revert to a cheaper iron.

 

[seanohue]

Quote:

Originally Posted by saab Pretty much always, but in the form of glasses. I usually take out my contact(s) before I go downstairs to solder. This gives me some protection, and I can see better up close when I am not wearing contact(s).

What about fumes? They say to solder in a ventalated area but are the fumes harmful? Every project I've done is the storage room under the basement steps. I would imagine solder with lead in it would cause problems but I'm not sure about rosin core.

 

[saab]

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanohue What about fumes? They say to solder in a ventalated area but are the fumes harmful? Every project I've done is the storage room under the basement steps. I would imagine solder with lead in it would cause problems but I'm not sure about rosin core.

Well, I make sure not to breath right as the fumes are coming off (made that mistake once.) I am also in a gigantic unfinished basement with plenty of space, and has an oped stariway to upstairs. I have no idea if i am hurting myself or not, but I am not too scared due to the space for the fumes to dissipate. I would be more cautious if I were in a small, closed in room.

 

[dhp]

i was melting solder on a wire when the iron slipped and the wire sorta flicked and some flux got on my face. it hurt. alot.

 

[RnB180]

I dont know if this has been mentioned already, I didnt watch the video, but while handling solder, try not to touch the solder directly, but grasp the spool while soldering. Wear safety glasses at all times. dont hover over the soldering area.

Radio shack has a tendency to corrode, Kester has really strong fumes.

Cardas has been good for me. I stay away from weller because Ive had bad experiences with the quality issues of their irons. Hakkos are good. I use the 599b to tin and clean the tip. If the tip is dirty, then I use the wet sponge.

Only solder you need IMO

 

[Zorander]

I did get a Radioshack-equivalent (in other words, Dick Smith Australia) silver solder, which composition goes something like 4% Silver, 0.5% Copper, 95.5% Tin. What do the better brand solders, in particular the oft-seen WBT, offer?

I did test some soldering on a headphone extension I'm making on one end. So far the solder looks shiny to me and the connection is mechanically strong. With this cheap solder I'm using, I find I can't simply heat up the surface and let the solder melt over the heated surface. I always have to let the solder come in contact with the iron tip itself to make it melt/flow. Is this a common practice to you as well?

 

[cire]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorander With this cheap solder I'm using, I find I can't simply heat up the surface and let the solder melt over the heated surface. I always have to let the solder come in contact with the iron tip itself to make it melt/flow. Is this a common practice to you as well?

keep in mind, hard metal on hard metal contact is poor for heat transfer, so the heated surface probably isn't hot enough. tin your iron's tip by putting a bit of solder on it, that helps greatly with heat transfer.

 

[jl123]

Regarding the flicking of the solder. I just don't do it. Yeah it's ok but I don't like leaving burnt flux on my tip.

As far as the smoke and fumes I bought a smoke absorber and it has really helped. It worked better than I ever thought it would. I soldered for around 5 straight hours yesterday and didn't have any irritation in my throat like I did before the absorber. Finished my PPA and steps in 2 days with it.

I'm using kester solder right now but im consider trying that cardas and wbt. RnB, how do you decide on which one to use?

Buying it in the 100gram package is a good idea...not too easy holding a 1 pound roll.

What do you guys use to clean flux? Kester's flux is a bitch to get off. 99.953% pure anhydrous isopropyl isn't cutting it.

 

[Zorander]

Great. I finished the cable finally. No more luggin' around an extension cable plus the adapter cable in tow for my MS-2.

I think I'm ready to try on more difficult tasks. What I just did is as simple as buying a cable and soldering it to a pair of connectors. I'm interested in creating a silver-cored cable now but I have no idea where to source these metals and how to properly sleeve them up. Any headers from you experienced DIYers? Cheers!

 

[Teerawit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RnB180

RnB180 where did you buy that Cardas solder? I bought the same Cardas solder 100 gram package from parts connexion but I got this:

 

[dhp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teerawit RnB180 where did you buy that Cardas solder? I bought the same 100 gram package from parts connexion but I got this:

lol at the difference

 

[Teerawit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieInAFire lol at the difference

I know, there's no way to tell

 

[RnB180]

wow,
I never seen cardas solder like that, did you get it at a discount?
I got mine from Todd_R,(I get all my Cardas stuff from him)
both of them and the WBT from parts express,
I also have Kester and Radio shack.

 

[Teerawit]

It was $11 for 100 grams.