[crazyclif]

Oh man now I have to buy that oh well I'd like to thank you for your time thank you

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

Or via USB route thru a USB Reclock/Regen.

 

[crazyclif]

Ok what is that and whT the cost?

 

[crazyclif]

Or via USB route thru a USB Reclock/Regen.

Basically another type of DDC?

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

About halfway, not a DDC since there is no interface conversion. But in a way since it reclocks and regenrates signals.

One nice USB reclock/regen is LHY Audio's UIP.

 

[crazyclif]

Ok ill check it out, what's your thought on it and what advantages might it have to improve my system, I did get the usb drives downloaded correctly, finally.I had to Uninstaller everything and start over get jriver 32 and everything is working in 512 and 256 but what makes no since is the flag ship DDC for singxer doesn't do 1024 and you can select it in the control menu but no won't do it thanks again for all your help regards David

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

IME, DSD1024 is good only if you have a very revealing equipment/system (flaghip/endgame category). And it depends also if you can tell the difference.

Again IME, better recorded materials in CD quality beats out even upscaled ones. Right now there is still not much DSD1024 materials.

SU6 is better although only in SD512 is better even SU2 can do DSD1024 (unless upgraded)

 

[crazyclif]

IME, DSD1024 is good only if you have a very revealing equipment/system (flaghip/endgame category). And it depends also if you can tell the difference.

Again IME, better recorded materials in CD quality beats out even upscaled ones. Right now there is still not much DSD1024 materials.

SU6 is better although only in SD512 is better even SU2 can do DSD1024 (unless upgraded)

Learning never ends I like it I have found like you I do prefer lossless over Enhanced, but the music that I have in Dsd 64,256 or 512 which isn't very much is very good to me,if you will go to my introduction I Stat what some of the audio equipment I have. What's your opinion on what I do have and what could I change to make it even better

 

[crazyclif]

Here is a pic of the sound room

 

[Ian S]

The regulator with the heatsink is a replacement for the 1V step down switching supply.
The regulator in the middle replaces the stock 3.3V linear regulator.
The regulator with the two wires going to it is exclusively for the discret PLL.
All regulator's are LT3045 with 22uF parallel to the set resistor.

Easiest to replace and with the biggest impact on sound quality is the middle 3.3V regulator.

It's also very rewarding to add 4 tantal capacitors across the XILINX ( USB side ) bypass capacitors as suggested by b0bb.

Am just doing the mods.

Need to buy a few more bits so will get the various surface mount caps.

Tants: do you mean just solder them on top of those four existing surface mount caps? Why Tants? What capacitance value? @b0bb

Have any of you, as well as @Xoverman also added the 22µF caps near to the Xtal in the heater box? Did you have any start up issues or all good?

I didn't see anyone here has mentioned sticking on damping pads to the very live and ringing metal box on the SU-6. If the Xtals, or general high frequency signals are affected by external noise, would damping material help? Eg: https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/deadening/products/silent-coat-2mm-deadening-mat I have some of their 4mm thick. Other brands are available.

I probed from the barrel connector and found it's earth, and power pin, are connected (directly?) to the discrete reg on that top board on over the heater box, and a lot of other areas. So, I guess better cable and supply are better zeroing the earth? And taking noise off the +rails?

Instead of spending a shed full of money on a LPS, can any of you point me to a home build circuit for an excellent one, so I can have the best function but for 1/10 of the price, or something. 6 Amps or so at 7.5 to 9 Volts, as has been mentioned as optimal.

 

[Ian S]

So far....

Alas, I bought, or they sent, the wrong size 717 chips, so have to get those again.

 

[Ian S]

@b0bb I got very luck to find this photo from the SU-2 thread.

4 Tant Polymer 47µF capacitors across the XILINX ( USB side ) bypass capacitors as suggested by b0bb.

There's only three then for the SU-2. But 4 for the SU-6?

So, remove the OE caps and affix these?

Is it worth replacing any others in the SU-6 as well?

Is there a photo for the SU-6?

 

[b0bb]

@b0bb I got very luck to find this photo from the SU-2 thread.

4 Tant Polymer 47µF capacitors across the XILINX ( USB side ) bypass capacitors as suggested by b0bb.

There's only three then for the SU-2. But 4 for the SU-6?

So, remove the OE caps and affix these?

Is it worth replacing any others in the SU-6 as well?

Is there a photo for the SU-6?

SU-2 and SU-6 have different board layouts, you will have to experiment to see what works on the SU-6
Check you have the right orientation on the SU-6 board as the tantalums are polarized.

I would like to see Singxer update SU-6 to the sampling capabilities of the current DACS namely PCM 768k/DSD1024.
I transferred some of the nicest features of the SU-6 onto the SU-2 namely the super cap buffer and higher quality Crystek clocks

 

[Ian S]

Thanks, I've just read through your instructions on the SU-2 thread about the polarity and fitting them. I'll have a close look at mine and enlarge the photos in the SU-2 thread and see what caps are there.

It would have been nice if Singxer had planned in advance to upgrade the sampling rates as time passed, some sort of plug in board with newer chips on?

I don't currently have any DSD1024 so I guess I'm OK for now with the SU-6 and few more optimisations, before if I do obtain some 1024 and have to start to thinking about moving on.

 

[Xoverman]

Am just doing the mods.

Need to buy a few more bits so will get the various surface mount caps.

Tants: do you mean just solder them on top of those four existing surface mount caps? Why Tants? What capacitance value? @b0bb

Have any of you, as well as @Xoverman also added the 22µF caps near to the Xtal in the heater box? Did you have any start up issues or all good?

I didn't see anyone here has mentioned sticking on damping pads to the very live and ringing metal box on the SU-6. If the Xtals, or general high frequency signals are affected by external noise, would damping material help? Eg: https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/deadening/products/silent-coat-2mm-deadening-mat I have some of their 4mm thick. Other brands are available.

I probed from the barrel connector and found it's earth, and power pin, are connected (directly?) to the discrete reg on that top board on over the heater box, and a lot of other areas. So, I guess better cable and supply are better zeroing the earth? And taking noise off the +rails?

Instead of spending a shed full of money on a LPS, can any of you point me to a home build circuit for an excellent one, so I can have the best function but for 1/10 of the price, or something. 6 Amps or so at 7.5 to 9 Volts, as has been mentioned as optimal.

Hi, I got my LDR LT3035 TO220 boards from aliexpress and modified then.