[Gollie]

These are some expensive tubes!

Is there a newb "tube terminology" thread? It's humbling having to ask questions that I know are so elementary.

Are the driver tubes the same as the input tubes (back 2 in the MPX3) and the output tube the front. I'm looking at a match pair of Sylvania 6SN7WGT 1955 (Brown base/crome top) for ~$250 and a matched pair of Ken Rad VT231's (Black Glass) for ~$200. I might throw in a CV1988 Mullard also for $170.

How are my selections and more importantly, how reasonable are the prices?

Thanks,

 

[Skylab]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gollie /img/forum/go_quote.gif These are some expensive tubes! Is there a newb "tube terminology" thread? It's humbling having to ask questions that I know are so elementary. Are the driver tubes the same as the input tubes (back 2 in the MPX3) and the output tube the front. I'm looking at a match pair of Sylvania 6SN7WGT 1955 (Brown base/crome top) for ~$250 and a matched pair of Ken Rad VT231's (Black Glass) for ~$200. I might throw in a CV1988 Mullard also for $170. How are my selections and more importantly, how reasonable are the prices? Thanks,

The MPX3 uses 6SN7 for driver (front) and power (back 2) tubes, yes. The two threads below are very helpful, although I do not agree with every single comment in them.


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/6sn...-guide-209782/

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/ref...thread-117677/

Most importantly, though, those prices are TOO HIGH. I have regularly bought Sylvania 6SN7WGT for $75-100/ pair, Ken-Rad black glass for $100/pair, and CV1988 for $200/PAIR.

 

[tagosaku]

I agree with Skylab about the price (expect cv1988, which I never got).

Is there any tubes you liked with DV? That should be a good start. And again, it is all about personal taste, so expensive/highly regarded might not suite you. I am yet to find a combination for TS RP that I like

 

[Gollie]

I received my MPX3 in last night from Mikhail and I only got about 2 hours on it after working late. I popped a Sylvania 6SN7W in the driver and a couple of Ken Rad vt-231's in for output tubes and on some music like Beck and Fionna Apple the bass was OK but maybe even a little bit to much even for my tastes. For Clapton and Piano/Saxophone Jazz the bass was overpowering the highs.

I'll have to try something else tonight. Next up, I plan on trying the W with a pair Raytheon vt-231's. I also have a WE Jan 396a that I plan on trying with an adapter in the driver position.

My Mullard and Brimar's (favorite tube in my DV 336i) won't be here until the end of the week.

Overall, the MPX3 is an amazing upgrade and so far, i'm a happy customer. How long should burn in be for this amp? I have not seen much talk about any sonic changes after xxx number of hours of burn-in. I know 2 is not nearly enough so, i'll probably hold any real opinions/impressions until ~100 hours.

 

[Skylab]

Just as an FYI, the Ken-Rad VT231 is about the bassiest 6SN7 there is. I think you will be happier with the Mullard/Brimar CV1988 as the power tubes. The Sylvania 6SN7W is no slouch in the bass department either, so you definitely will want to roll some if you feel you have too much bass. Even I didn't care for the Ken-Rad in the MPX3.

 

[sacd lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gollie /img/forum/go_quote.gif I received my MPX3 in last night from Mikhail and I only got about 2 hours on it after working late. I popped a Sylvania 6SN7W in the driver and a couple of Ken Rad vt-231's in for output tubes and on some music like Beck and Fionna Apple the bass was OK but maybe even a little bit to much even for my tastes. For Clapton and Piano/Saxophone Jazz the bass was overpowering the highs. I'll have to try something else tonight. Next up, I plan on trying the W with a pair Raytheon vt-231's. I also have a WE Jan 396a that I plan on trying with an adapter in the driver position. My Mullard and Brimar's (favorite tube in my DV 336i) won't be here until the end of the week. Overall, the MPX3 is an amazing upgrade and so far, i'm a happy customer. How long should burn in be for this amp? I have not seen much talk about any sonic changes after xxx number of hours of burn-in. I know 2 is not nearly enough so, i'll probably hold any real opinions/impressions until ~100 hours.

The Ken Rad is a much better tube used in the gain position. I used to like Hytron tall bottles or Slylvania tall bottles for the outputs with the KR for gain. The KR is very good with Tung Sol 5687s. If you want more neutral along with less bass quantity and more punch get a pair of 5687 adapters a few 5687s to try on the outputs.

 

[Gollie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sacd lover /img/forum/go_quote.gif The Ken Rad is a much better tube used in the gain position. I used to like Hytron tall bottles or Slylvania tall bottles for the outputs with the KR for gain. The KR is very good with Tung Sol 5687s. If you want more neutral along with less bass quantity and more punch get a pair of 5687 adapters a few 5687s to try on the outputs.

Are the Tung Sol's considered to be very good 5687 tubes? I don't have any atm...

 

[Orcin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gollie /img/forum/go_quote.gif I received my MPX3 in last night

Woohoo!!!

I am glad the wait is finally over. Burn that stuff in so I can come over and hear it.

 

[Gollie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orcin /img/forum/go_quote.gif Woohoo!!! I am glad the wait is finally over. Burn that stuff in so I can come over and hear it.

It is just cruel that the day my month long wait ends, SACD Lover puts up a MPX3 for $1050. Just CRUEL!!!

 

[sacd lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gollie /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are the Tung Sol's considered to be very good 5687 tubes? I don't have any atm...

Most of the 5687s are very good. But, the Tung Sol is very likely most peoples favorite. I like the clean, clear sound of the Sylvania 5687s too.

 

[Gollie]

Did any of you have any issues with clipping when you used a Ken Rad VT-231 in the driver and 5687's for outputs? I was about to cry because I thought my amp had been dropped in shipping. I immediately called Mikhail and he told me to switch out the tubes (the two outputs) to see if the clipping would move from the right ear to the left. When it stayed in my right ear, I thought for sure that my amp was busted.

As a last ditch effort before crying (literally because I knew it would have to go back to Denver), I popped in a cv1988 Brimar into the driver position. So far the clipping/static is gone. I'm going to let the tube heat up fully before I consider it gone, but for now it is gone.

Last night when the Ken Rad was in the output position (horrible idea FTR) there were no noticeable issues. I don't think the tube is busted. Maybe there is an issue with the voltage when using a Ken Rad with the 5687 adapter's. It is late right now so i'm not going to try the other Ken Rad I have. That will have to wait until tomorrow. This Brimar sounds to good anyway.

 

[mrarroyo]

After exchanging PM's w/ sacd lover I tried a GE NOS 6BL7GT as driver of a pair of Raytheon 6SN7GTB. I had to crank the attenuator about 2-3 additional notches (over a tall bottle Tungsol 6SN7GT) to get the same sound level.

I actually liked the sound. I found it to be very detailed but in a relaxed way. Kind of tube you put on when you want to relax and listen through the music but not at the music.

Anyone tryd a 6BL7GT as a driver? Thanks.

 

[sacd lover]

Ken rad 6/12sn7s and the NU 6/12sn7s are some of the flakiest tubes I have used. Alot of them are microphonic and have noise issues. I dont get nearly the tube life with these tubes for all but a few exceptions.

Now as for the tube working ok as a gain tube, but ok as an output tube, that has an easy explanation. As an output tube the tube does far less amplifying and the tubes flaws can be covered up in the output position. But in the gain position there is nowhere to hide. I have had microphonic, noisy 6/12sn7s that will work fine in the output position while having clear issues in the gain slot. That is why switching the gain tube often results in more noticeable differences vs changing the output tubes.

When I reread your post you asked about clipping. An arching tube will pop and unless you have experienced this before that may be what you are describing using the term clipping. I would retire that tube just in case the tube is arching = shorting out = damaging the amp.



Quote:

Originally Posted by Gollie /img/forum/go_quote.gif Did any of you have any issues with clipping when you used a Ken Rad VT-231 in the driver and 5687's for outputs? I was about to cry because I thought my amp had been dropped in shipping. I immediately called Mikhail and he told me to switch out the tubes (the two outputs) to see if the clipping would move from the right ear to the left. When it stayed in my right ear, I thought for sure that my amp was busted. As a last ditch effort before crying (literally because I knew it would have to go back to Denver), I popped in a cv1988 Brimar into the driver position. So far the clipping/static is gone. I'm going to let the tube heat up fully before I consider it gone, but for now it is gone. Last night when the Ken Rad was in the output position (horrible idea FTR) there were no noticeable issues. I don't think the tube is busted. Maybe there is an issue with the voltage when using a Ken Rad with the 5687 adapter's. It is late right now so i'm not going to try the other Ken Rad I have. That will have to wait until tomorrow. This Brimar sounds to good anyway.

 

[fdhfdy]

a guy somewhere just bought a amp from them which costed him 1000$ for the shipping. OMG, what the hell is that amp? Congrats

 

[Gollie]

The SDS-XLR is 170lbs. plus extensive packaging materials.

Express shipping overseas could cost this kind of money.