[vantt1]

Well whatever you do, don't use a bad screwdriver to unscrew the hinges. I accidentally stripped the screws, then I had to rewire it outside of the hinge.



 
 
 

 

[Squeeesh]

T-4 is it?

 

[vantt1]

T-4 is it?

 

Yeah it is.
 
The big one in the middle was a crosshead. Was!

 

[Squeeesh]

I can't get any of them to budge. I think I'm just going to go back to a two wire set up…

 

[vantt1]

I can't get any of them to budge. I think I'm just going to go back to a two wire set up…

That's a shame

 

[nikongod]

Why not just thread the wires through? 

 

[vantt1]

  Why not just thread the wires through? 

Through what?

 

[nikongod]

  Through what?

 
Through the hinges. 
Isnt that why you wanted to take them apart? 

 

[vantt1]

   
Through the hinges. 
Isnt that why you wanted to take them apart? 

The cable has to go through the hinge, and as you can see from the picture below, it's a pretty sharp turn. The cable's diameter is also too thick to be simply threaded through.
 

 

[Squeeesh]

Through the hinges. 
Isnt that why you wanted to take them apart? 

That would have just been a benefit. The true purpose is to better them with higher quality drivers. Hopefully the new layout will not botch the audio.

 

[Squeeesh]

I'm pretty sure I just conceptualized a method of having a hot swappable driver system that involves Legos. Tomorrow's going to be interesting…

 

[vantt1]

I'm pretty sure I just conceptualized a method of having a hot swappable driver system that involves Legos. Tomorrow's going to be interesting…

Good luck trying to get an airtight seal with Lego...

 

[Squeeesh]

I meant for the connector

 

[Squeeesh]

But I don't think I'll use it because it would take up too much space

 

[vantt1]

I don't think those Lego connectors are audio-grade contacts, either. It'd defeat the purpose if you intend to use Shure drivers.