Schiit Yggdrasil Impressions thread
Dec 20, 2017 at 10:11 PM Post #6,301 of 12,319
Like you..I normally leave my system on 24/7. Its bad weather that I turn it off for.

When asked.. NuPrime /NuForce recommends waiting twenty minutes to reach operational temperature (after the unit has already been burned in). As long as the AC line is well protected its ok to leave on 24/7. There will be less turn on surges that way. Even Asus told me for my monitor its better to allow to go into idle rather than turning on and off, because the turn on surges will wear out things quicker than constantly on...

That is why we see 'slow blow' fuses. Slow blow is designed to absorb the turn on current surge, and not blow. As for fast blow? Not sure what's going on there. I guess its what the transformer demands of the AC when first turned on.
Yes typically things go boom during turn on. The inrush current is many more times the continual current draw while operating, thus why I seldom turn the entire system off. Yes it can cause more 'wear and tear' especially on the electrolytic caps, but this is a trade off I am willing to make to attain a greater degree of SQ. And there are ways of mitigating these thermal consequences as well.

If you have ever investigated the response curves for fuses, a good portion of your answer about slow-blow vs fast-blow will be found there.
Also look at the the I2t rating which is partially described as, "Nominal melting I2t is a measure of the energy required to melt the fusing element and is expressed as “Ampere Squared Seconds” (A2 Sec.). This nominal melting I2t, and the energy it represents (within a time duration of 8 milliseconds [0.008 second] or less…"
(from the Littelfuse catalog).

JJ
 
Dec 20, 2017 at 10:42 PM Post #6,302 of 12,319
In my system I hear far more SQ refinements on my 800's than I did with my cheap $40 Dayton speakers.
And now that I've upgraded my nearfield speakers I hope that the gap will close up, but it will take a bit of time yet to get everything settled down to determine those sorts of particulars.

HD-800's are rated down to 6Hz (-10dB) and there are very few speakers which are rated down that low.
So there are some HP based systems that can extend into the subsonic region, and I've tweaked my system to do just that.

JJ

If you solely uses headphones its most likely not that noticeable.

Its with speakers that produce bass you can feel with your body that burn in becomes apparent. That may be part of the conflict we see about this matter. Some only use headphones.
 
Dec 20, 2017 at 10:55 PM Post #6,303 of 12,319
Yes typically things go boom during turn on. The inrush current is many more times the continual current draw while operating, thus why I seldom turn the entire system off. Yes it can cause more 'wear and tear' especially on the electrolytic caps, but this is a trade off I am willing to make to attain a greater degree of SQ. And there are ways of mitigating these thermal consequences as well.

If you have ever investigated the response curves for fuses, a good portion of your answer about slow-blow vs fast-blow will be found there.
Also look at the the I2t rating which is partially described as, "Nominal melting I2t is a measure of the energy required to melt the fusing element and is expressed as “Ampere Squared Seconds” (A2 Sec.). This nominal melting I2t, and the energy it represents (within a time duration of 8 milliseconds [0.008 second] or less…"
(from the Littelfuse catalog).

JJ

Audiophile fuses (from what I understand) are addressing problems with fuse filaments vibrating and even oscillating under certain conditions. And, of course.. better conductivity when they use materials like gold, silver, and copper for the fuse ends. What ever they are doing.. it just works. The person who designs More Than a Fuse has a unique grasp on how to tweak fuses. I had to remove the one I bought from the DAC I was using because it was making too deep a sound to keep my apartment neighbor happy. Very vitalizing sounding.
 
Dec 20, 2017 at 11:10 PM Post #6,304 of 12,319
Which DeOxit?
I still have plenty of their Pro Gold (now DeOxit Gold) which I use as a cleaner and protectant, but I steer clear of the red or blue.

And I have used the Silclear, and it does work rather well, but now I prefer the Furutech Nano liquid all by itself.

And as I mentioned above, the WAQy chips "…for me in my system, (YMMV), tighter more well defined bass, more tube like mids and up, better focus everywhere, and better dimensionality.
They remove a veil, one you didn't know you had until its no longer apparent."

They provide somewhat similar results to what a really good fuse will do.

JJ

Why do you steer clear of the red? The blue is a special protectant to be applied after cleaning. Its for harsh environments.
 
Dec 20, 2017 at 11:37 PM Post #6,305 of 12,319
Sorry I wasn't more clear about what WAQy chips are.

They are WA Quantum stick on "Bioenergetic Chips" (according to the manufacturer).
And other than this all to brief description there doesn't seem to be any real info about them, other than what users have reported.
The only place in the US to purchase them that I'm aware of is VH Audio https://www.vhaudio.com/miscellaneous.html
There are several different types for different end uses. The fuse chips come in 2 sizes 5mm and 6mm.

As to what SQ changes they provide, for me in my system, (YMMV), is tighter more well defined bass, more tube like mids and up, better focus everywhere, and better dimensionality.
They remove a veil, one you didn't know you had until its no longer apparent.

They have proven themselves to me to the extent that using them has become SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) in my system.
IOW every fuse in my system has one stuck on its end cap.

JJ
I see only one type of Fuse Chip, a "Large Fuse Chip," in the list of options, and it is advertised for $8.99 each. I suppose you're currently using one with your Yggy. Is that correct? It is just the following statement by the seller which is making me a bit anxious about trying something like this:

"I don't know how they work, but based on my own experience, and numerous audiophiles who have been asking for VH Audio to stock this product (after hearing them)- I felt compelled to offer to you."

It seems to imply that if there are any adverse side-effects in using this fuse chip, especially long term side effects, he wouldn't know about them... Is this an unreasonable concern?
 
Dec 21, 2017 at 12:01 AM Post #6,306 of 12,319
Why do you steer clear of the red? The blue is a special protectant to be applied after cleaning. Its for harsh environments.
Originally the red and blue were designed for electrical switch gear and contactors (think high voltage (hundreds/thousands) and high current (think hundreds/thousands) and are rather heavy duty de-oxidizers and residue removers. And red is VERY persistent, as in it will stick around and spread unless completely cleaned off.
The DeOxit gold variant is for the precious metals we use, (gold, silver, rhodium etc.). and also adds an ever so slight layer of protection as well.

JJ
 
Dec 21, 2017 at 12:12 AM Post #6,307 of 12,319
I see only one type of Fuse Chip, a "Large Fuse Chip," in the list of options, and it is advertised for $8.99 each. I suppose you're currently using one with your Yggy. Is that correct? It is just the following statement by the seller which is making me a bit anxious about trying something like this:

"I don't know how they work, but based on my own experience, and numerous audiophiles who have been asking for VH Audio to stock this product (after hearing them)- I felt compelled to offer to you."

It seems to imply that if there are any adverse side-effects in using this fuse chip, especially long term side effects, he wouldn't know about them... Is this an unreasonable concern?
If you click on the line where the prices are shown that turns into a drop down panel where the variants are shown.

These chips have been around since at least 2010 and I have not noticed any deleterious side effects since I started using them.
They are after all only a thin piece of sticky backed plastic that is stuck to the outside of the fuse etc, with no direct electrical or electronic connection.
In fact I leave the paper backing on the other larger chips I use, as it makes it easier to re-position and move them around.

JJ
 
Dec 21, 2017 at 12:45 AM Post #6,308 of 12,319
If you click on the line where the prices are shown that turns into a drop down panel where the variants are shown.

These chips have been around since at least 2010 and I have not noticed any deleterious side effects since I started using them.
They are after all only a thin piece of sticky backed plastic that is stuck to the outside of the fuse etc, with no direct electrical or electronic connection.
In fact I leave the paper backing on the other larger chips I use, as it makes it easier to re-position and move them around.

JJ
I did click on the line you refer to and inspected all the 10 items in the drop down panel before making my previous post, and only one of them (the first one) is identified as a "Fuse Chip," a "Large Fuse Chip." If any of the other chips are supposed to be "Fuse" chips, then they are not identified by name. At any rate, your assurances regarding possible long-term side-effects are well noted. Thanks.
 
Dec 21, 2017 at 12:50 AM Post #6,309 of 12,319
I see only one type of Fuse Chip, a "Large Fuse Chip," in the list of options, and it is advertised for $8.99 each. I suppose you're currently using one with your Yggy. Is that correct? It is just the following statement by the seller which is making me a bit anxious about trying something like this:

"I don't know how they work, but based on my own experience, and numerous audiophiles who have been asking for VH Audio to stock this product (after hearing them)- I felt compelled to offer to you."

It seems to imply that if there are any adverse side-effects in using this fuse chip, especially long term side effects, he wouldn't know about them... Is this an unreasonable concern?


I simply Googled.. WA Quantum chips ..and found several reviews. It may be a good place to start.
 
Dec 21, 2017 at 12:53 AM Post #6,310 of 12,319
Originally the red and blue were designed for electrical switch gear and contactors (think high voltage (hundreds/thousands) and high current (think hundreds/thousands) and are rather heavy duty de-oxidizers and residue removers. And red is VERY persistent, as in it will stick around and spread unless completely cleaned off.
The DeOxit gold variant is for the precious metals we use, (gold, silver, rhodium etc.). and also adds an ever so slight layer of protection as well.

JJ


Next can will be gold.... I found the DeoxIt good for removing stains off of component cases. Just a little bit... Just wipe it around and off with a wash cloth.. Spotless.
 
Dec 21, 2017 at 12:58 AM Post #6,311 of 12,319
I did click on the line you refer to and inspected all the 10 items in the drop down panel before making my previous post, and only one of them (the first one) is identified as a "Fuse Chip," a "Large Fuse Chip." If any of the other chips are supposed to be "Fuse" chips, then they are not identified by name. At any rate, your assurances regarding possible long-term side-effects are well noted. Thanks.
Ah I now see what you're saying and yeah the small fuse chip is missing.
Perhaps they no longer offer the 5mm round chip anymore, or they are out of stock etc.

The 6mm (large fuse chip) will still work but you'll need to wrap it around the middle of a 5mm fuse instead of stuck on the end cap.
That is unless it can 'overhang' the diameter of the fuse in the fuse holder and not electrically interfere.

JJ
 
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Dec 21, 2017 at 10:46 AM Post #6,312 of 12,319
Dec 21, 2017 at 6:31 PM Post #6,314 of 12,319
I wanted to thank everyone for the Vioelectric V280 HP Amp recommendation.

After 200+ hours of burn in, I'm very happy to have it and also to have caught the holiday discount.

Right now my holiday vacation would be perfect if I did not have to send in my MJ2 for a warranty repair ... Unit would no longer turn on.

BTW: I also purchased a tube extractor to make things easier to remove tubes or socket savers from the MJ2

GC ELECTRONICS 5092 VACUUM TUBE EXTRACTOR
 
Dec 21, 2017 at 6:52 PM Post #6,315 of 12,319

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