I think your unit and mine are twins.
Apparently more than a few are having this problem, and that, to me, evidences a severe design flaw.
I think your unit and mine are twins.
You’re all right. And I overreacted. I’m sure my frame of mind wasn’t the greatest last night. All good.Sorry, I didn't intend any snark in the slightest, I genuinely thought sending it straight back when the thing doesn't work literally out of the box was the pragmatic thing to do and the best version of help that could be offered.
If you choose to do otherwise all power to you.
Good luck either way ..... I will be steering well clear of a Lyr + that is for sure !
I’ll give your detailed ‘instructions’ a try. I haven’t done much in the way of slight tilting and pressing it like you describe. A bit later. No time now.I'm sorry to hear that, but the good news is that (as others have said and I experienced and I wrote about just a bit before your post), there's a simple solution to what is probably wrong!
The front panel is probably slightly misaligned (and I mean in the sense of millimeters: nothing looks or feels off or loose or anything) causing the buttons to not "input" into the amp. That caused mine to become unresponsive (out of the box it worked fine; after I tilted it to unplug it to put in a tube--I simply tested it without a tube at first--that probably moved the front panel/cover enough and caused the buttons to misalign), and the buttons to not be "clicky" enough (they did depress, but felt "off" or weren't depressing in the way to feel effective), no matter what else I did (turn amp off and on, remove/reinstall the tube, run with and without the tube, use the remote, etc).
All I did was just kind of try to move the front panel/cover around a bit with moderate force (like push down on it from the top or sides). I didn't try to pry it at the bottom like others have, and I didn't feel or hear anything "click" into place, but when I pressed the buttons after just pushing the panel/cover around, then all of the sudden the buttons felt properly "clicky" (just like they did at first out of the box) and when I turned it on everything was responsive again (could switch between tube and SS, switch gain, etc) and the sound was back on - in both modes.
Since then, although I've only been playing it for around a hour (listening to it more now, and will some later today, and will report back if there are any other issues), everything is working fine in both tube and SS mode and the remote works everything too.
I hope you can do whatever I and others have done to get the buttons to align properly for then all should be well.
Thanks Dr. Cube.For all of those who are having trouble with the amp, I hope they can get that sorted out for you in a timely fashion. I ordered mine last summer from the earliest production run and based on that I can say that the design of the amp is certainly capable of being completely reliable, in my case even running for hours in a room over 80°F and with tubes of questionable provenance.
I’ll give your detailed ‘instructions’ a try. I haven’t done much in the way of slight tilting and pressing it like you describe. A bit later. No time now.
It really does seem like as Others have said or implied that this is not a software issue. Although my remote has never worked, but that could also be misalignment.
Definitely sounds like misalignment, esp. if the other buttons are misaligned. The IR receiver is in the hole to the left of the Input 1 button. Don't think this is referenced in the manual.Although my remote has never worked, but that could also be misalignment.
I think it can probably work for most IEMs on low gain and in solid state mode. With Andromeda S (which is obviously something of a torture test for noise floor), the noise is clearly audible for me on both low gain modes and is certainly too loud on high gain, also adding some obvious power supply hum on high gain tube mode. An IEMatch on the lower impedance setting is plenty to clean it up for the Andromedas on both low gain modes. I'm not sure if there's a reason to use Lyr+ in tube high gain mode with Andromedas, but the IEMatch on its higher impedance setting was enough to make that usable for me. With Kato, the noise floor is again audible for me with both high gain modes, but just barely audible on both low gain modes. With Kato on an IEMatch on the lower impedance setting, it disappears. Noise doesn't really seem to change with the volume knob position and sounds the same to me from one end to the other.
For all of those who are having trouble with the amp, I hope they can get that sorted out for you in a timely fashion. I ordered mine last summer from the earliest production run and based on that I can say that the design of the amp is certainly capable of being completely reliable, in my case even running for hours in a room over 80°F and with tubes of questionable provenance.
The input and pre-out buttons did not move or have a distinct click. They felt like they were stuck in place and the force necessary to register a press was very little. Did not feel good at all.in what way?
I wish I could explain better what I did, but I really can't; it's more of "show" than "tell" sort of thing.
Later this week when I get my repaired amp I'll check if it has any stuck buttons, and if so I'll post a quick video here showing how to fix them.
Yes, this latest batch in particular has especially poor QC. The unit is quite heavy and dense so if minor flexes in the chassis are enough to cause buttons to misalign and malfunction, then there is definitely an inherent design flaw.Apparently more than a few are having this problem, and that, to me, evidences a severe design flaw.
One miss is that the remote volume control jumps too quickly between volume levels. I have to reach for the knob to fine tune the volume to get it at the perfect level. That will be annoying if/when I use this in my bedroom set up and the unit will be across the room, especially as I bought the Lyr+ partly to have remote volume control in this setup.