[BowWazoo]

Everything ok again. A little massage helped

The massage didn't help after all.
According to Schiit's customer service, this can be normal, because they have replaced some buttons. Strange.
The function is given.

 

[MarkF786]

It's hard to determine from your video, but what I've discovered is that when switching either gain or tube/solid state, it takes a while for the amp to switch over - during which time none of the buttons are responsive.

 

[keenerz]

I mentioned it earlier and someone else corroborated that the gain button can get a bit stuck or sticky. I wiggled it enough to get it to sit right finally, but there's definitely a bunch of folks who've had some weirdness with the buttons. So I wouldn't rule peoples comments about it completely out. Seeing as he looks to be handling it just give em a ring at this point.

 

[ThurstonX]

As far as remote sensitivity goes, I wonder if teaching a learning remote the Schiity volume buttons would help? I'll try with a URC RF20 when I get some time.

 

[classfolkphile]

I received my Lyr+ (along with a Bifrost 2/64) today, shipped after a three week wait, and so far everything is working fine (knock wood).
I've substituted it for my Asgard 3, leaving in my Bifrost MB (1 with Unison) to institute only one change at a time and in order to be able to compare it to the Asgard.
Initial impressions are that the Lyr+ (in SS mode, I haven't inserted a tube yet) is more transparent, more evenly balanced frequency wise, more tonally accurate, and possessed of better image separation. The only downside so far - and of course, this is with only a few hours of playing time - is a bit of lack of weight and a "slipperiness" to the upper midrange/treble. Hopefully these deficits will disappear with more use, or at least in tube mode.

 

[XGeneX88]

I received my Lyr+ (along with a Bifrost 2/64) today, shipped after a three week wait, and so far everything is working fine (knock wood).
I've substituted it for my Asgard 3, leaving in my Bifrost MB (1 with Unison) to institute only one change at a time and in order to be able to compare it to the Asgard.
Initial impressions are that the Lyr+ (in SS mode, I haven't inserted a tube yet) is more transparent, more evenly balanced frequency wise, more tonally accurate, and possessed of better image separation. The only downside so far - and of course, this is with only a few hours of playing time - is a bit of lack of weight and a "slipperiness" to the upper midrange/treble. Hopefully these deficits will disappear with more use, or at least in tube mode.

Let the amp settle in and I think you’ll find it improves over time. The true magic with this amp is in tube mode. Get some nice tubes, burn them in and you’ll find this amp truly shines. My favorite tubes so far are the psvane uk-6sn7 and the cv181-z (both need at least 100 hours of burn-in). Really really good stuff and even outperforms my Burson Conductor 3X Reference. The sound is just so musical, smooth but engaging and pairs wonderfully with all my headphones (even though I prefer to use certain tubes with certain cans).

 

[BowWazoo]

The massage didn't help after all.
According to Schiit's customer service, this can be normal, because they have replaced some buttons. Strange.
The function is given.

Could someone please confirm , that
also the low / high gain button clicks?

 

[Dr. Cube]

Could someone please confirm , that
also the low / high gain button clicks?

Yes, it clicks: https://imgur.com/a/ittq2bh

 

[BowWazoo]

am not yet sure what I will do. The function is given. And I don't feel like sending the thing to the Netherlands for replacement.

 

[tafens]

The input and pre-out buttons did not move or have a distinct click. They felt like they were stuck in place and the force necessary to register a press was very little. Did not feel good at all.

I had a stuck button a long time ago on a Modi2Uber. I managed to get it unstuck by taking a piece of normal household tape and attaching it to the front of the button (just the button) and rotating it. At a particular point in the rotation - the button rotated with the tape - it snapped into place. Has worked fine ever since.
Apparently, the button inside has a square peg on it that fits in to a square hole in the metal button. Somehow it had gotten dislodged and rotated out of place.

I don’t know if this is applicable to the Lyr+, but maybe it’s worth a try.

 

[keenerz]

yeah I kind of wiggled it a bunch and it finally popped into place. That tape idea sounds pretty good.

 

[Author]

Update: I have a working amp!
I think.

First I don’t know if it will stay fixed. The previously stuck Preamp Outamp Enable button has some give now, but just barely. It feels like the wrong nudge could set it back. The Gain button actually turns the light on and off.

The POT doesn’t change volume without static/crackling.

Not sure about the power. On the HD650, high gain is a must, and it needs to go to 12-1-ish. Does that sound right? I’m thinking about the Arya in the future.

I kept toying with the face, which as others have said creates some travel in the button, but then the travel always promptly disappeared—until tonight.

Will I keep it? After this experience, I’m not sure. I know it needs time to burn in, but so far it’s not approaching the Darkvoice/stock tube. It’s only been an hour.

I’m also going to jiggle it, move it from one side of the table to the other, with care, like I would move any piece of electronics. My own kind of “durability testing.”

Thats all for now.

Thanks to all who’ve helped by sharing their thoughts. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

[Dr. Cube]

The POT doesn’t change volume without static/crackling.

With the stepped attenuator, it's normal to have noise from the relays clicking to switch resistors in and out as well as sudden changes in the volume while it's switching resistors. It ought to sound quite different from the crackling of a normal dirty pot.

Not sure about the power. On the HD650, high gain is a must, and it needs to go to 12-1-ish. Does that sound right? I’m thinking about the Arya in the future.

That sounds about right, though I can get HD650 uncomfortably loud by 4:30 or so on low gain. With Arya, either gain level gives a comfortable output volume for me, about 12 to 2 o'clock for high gain, and 2 to 4 o'clock for low gain. The stepped attenuator seems very different to me compared to a typical audio taper pot, and I find that I end up using a narrower range of the volume knob even for different headphones of quite different sensitivity.

 

[Author]

With the stepped attenuator, it's normal to have noise from the relays clicking to switch resistors in and out as well as sudden changes in the volume while it's switching resistors. It ought to sound quite different from the crackling of a normal dirty pot.

So I hear the soft clicking when I turn the POT. That I understand. What I’m also hearing though is emitted through the headphone. It’s not a smooth increase/decrease in volume. It’s rough. Almost static-like. Then it immediately settles down when I stop turning. It almost reminds me of an analog radio tuner, although that kind of radio static is far more robust than what I’m hearing here.

That sounds about right, though I can get HD650 uncomfortably loud by 4:30 or so on low gain. With Arya, either gain level gives a comfortable output volume for me, about 12 to 2 o'clock for high gain, and 2 to 4 o'clock for low gain. The stepped attenuator seems very different to me compared to a typical audio taper pot, and I find that I end up using a narrower range of the volume knob even for different headphones of quite different sensitivity.

The Darkvoice, esp. when hooked up to the Bifrost, really drives the 650 easily. of course I don’t really know what I’m talking about.

The Lyr stock tube is quite dim compared to the DV tube. Is your experience that it’s a dim tube generally?

 

[Dr. Cube]

So I hear the soft clicking when I turn the POT. That I understand. What I’m also hearing though is emitted through the headphone. It’s not a smooth increase/decrease in volume. It’s rough. Almost static-like. Then it immediately settles down when I stop turning. It almost reminds me of an analog radio tuner, although that kind of radio static is far more robust than what I’m hearing here.

Yes, the volume should change in sharp steps rather than smoothly. To me the signal does sound kind of clicky during volume changes, but that may just be because the volume is changing instantly.

The Lyr stock tube is quite dim compared to the DV tube. Is your experience that it’s a dim tube generally?

I don't have any experience with the Darkvoice and I don't know what sort of tube it uses. My Lyr+ came with a new manufacture Tung-Sol. If you mean the appearance of the tube in operation, I suppose the filament looks less bright than what I'd normally see in a guitar amp, though I imagine those are being run quite a lot harder. If you mean the tone, I suppose it sounds ever so slightly rolled off in the treble to me, but I would also say I might be imagining it.