[the finisher]

I'm curious how much Mike's new USB implementation will improve on Gen5. Admittedly I've not tried the AES or BNC inputs on my Yggy2, but Gen5 sounds damn fine to my ears.

I've not tried the AES3 input either, but do use the BNC, Coaxial, Toslink and USB for different connection scenarios.
They are all pretty close IMO, I do like the BNC and Coaxial the best, but not a huge difference to me.

 

[Alcophone]

Sorry, I removed it.

Removed that part, too. All good!

 

[rutter]

Oh and I'm buying a multibit dac card for my Jot

You're your own man. Wish I didn't waste $200 but some of us live and learn.

 

[the finisher]

Well perhaps Modi multibit would make more sense.

 

[TeeQ]

Hey All,

Long time listener, first time caller...


So I have had a Jot w/Multibit card for maybe 2~3 months, never really used that much. End up with a Gumby/MJ2 stack maybe 6 days after getting jot w/Multibit. Just ran to some luck so picked up the Gumby/MJ2, not that anything was wrong with the jot.

Now after having it sitting around for a few months, I thought hey you’re going out of the country for a month to go work in a small room. This would make that room better. Bought a DC to AC battery pack and 230v to 120v converter.

Jot -> DC to AC battery pack -> 230v to 120v -> wall

Figure the 230v to 120v is not going to give the best power. Ps I was right.

Now the headphone, Ether C flow 1.1 (had done the upgrade, but was listening to other headphones while still at home. I was going to have more than enough time to get to know the 1.1 version)

Ok time to head out -

------

Landed and time to listen.

Ahhhhh What is wrong with everything. Ready to start hatefully posting all over the place. Wait, stop think test and read.

Ether C flow 1.1 early reviews all seem to say, basically same headphone but better. I think that is mostly right... still need some more time to live with them to tell. (Now that the Jot is warmed up, the Ether C flows 1.1 sound miles better)

Jot, this seem more all over the place for reviews. It’s great, its harsh ... etc take your pick. Same can be said with the multi bit card in the Jot.

------

Learnings of traveling with Jot thus far

- Jot w/Multibit is a LONG warm up time, I want to say maybe a day or two under normal operation. Hotel to office to hotel has not been ideal to get up to temp. Much longer warm up than normal Mimby from what I remember when I had one.

- DC to AC converter, must need for good audio on the go. Can plug Jot direct into 230v - 120v converter to keep heated overnight.

- Avoid trying to bring a Multibit DAC on the road if you can (Mimby may be a little better if must need for this). Not that will stop me or any of you ...

- The Jot w/Multibit is actually pretty bad a$$ once it gets warmed up. First couple day I wanted to chuck it out a window.

------

What I am still trying to figure out.

- To keep the DAC properly heated when moving from location to location, do you need to power both the main amp section and the USB, Just the main amp or just the USB?

- Does toweling the Jot to bring it up to a higher temp quick at all help with warm up time?

It seems from what I have read the reason for the SUPER bass lite sound when cool is the DAC needing to hit thermal equilibrium before it works correctly for audio decoding. But I also seem to remember something about the Schiit Multibit DAC chips having a low signal output, so it also takes time for them to charge the output caps before they sound right. The part about the caps charging is more what i have read from the Gumby reviews. With that said, if the caps, then im guess toweling is going to do nothing. But hey at least I didn't forget my towel!


Happy listing all.

 

[the finisher]

- Jot w/Multibit is a LONG warm up time, I want to say maybe a day or two under normal operation. Hotel to office to hotel has not been ideal to get up to temp. Much longer warm up than normal Mimby from what I remember when I had one.

This is not surprising at all, I never shut my Schiit off for a reason.

And welcome

 

[Brooklyn70]

I’m looking to upgrade my jotunheim power cord any suggestions??

 

[the finisher]

I use one of these, I know it's kinda spendy but great shielding and looks are important to me.
Pretty sure 12 awg is slightly overkill for a 15/20 watt device, but I like it.

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/analysis-plus-pro-power-oval-power-cable

 

[Brooklyn70]

I use one of these, I know it's kinda spendy but great shielding and looks are important to me.
Pretty sure 12 awg is slightly overkill for a 15/20 watt device, but I like it.

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/analysis-plus-pro-power-oval-power-cable

I’ll give it a look thank you

 

[the finisher]

I’ll give it a look thank you

I have 1 of these as well, be fine and a bit cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V75KB0...7f-11e8-a4cb-8f9c782aa20c&smid=A2763VQ7SN6URD

 

[TeeQ]

Before looking into power cables i would like into the power coming out of your mains if sound quality is the purpose for the upgrade. May want to look into power conditioning. DC blocker, rfi/emi filter etc ... Do some googling on "Pimping The Schiit Out of The Mjolnir 2" should be a start.

If you just looking for a nice looking accessory, then above mentioned power cable will do nice.

 

[FLTWS]

I have 1 of these as well, be fine and a bit cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V75KB0...7f-11e8-a4cb-8f9c782aa20c&smid=A2763VQ7SN6URD

I use these Pangeas on all my stuff, they work fine, seem to be nicely put together with all the bells, whistles and buzzwords in the specs, reasonably flexible, come in several different lengths (no need to ball up excess in wads or trim and re-terminate yourself), and are very cost effective as these things go. I use the lowest cost versions except the one I use with my PS Audio Dectet which is 2 meters long. I also replaced the wall socket with one from Pangea for $19.95. Thought it was probably not necessary but when I pulled the existing one turned out to be only about 75% of normal, low quality builders grade, LOL. There is a substantial difference in weight alone. Difference in sound, time will tell. Truth is, when the local Naval Air Station closed 10 years ago or so, and I was no longer directly under the NW to SE landing pattern (depending on wind), all my, sometimes, noise issues went with it.

 

[GrussGott]

I use these Pangeas on all my stuff, they work fine, seem to be nicely put together with all the bells, whistles and buzzwords in the specs, reasonably flexible, come in several different lengths (no need to ball up excess in wads or trim and re-terminate yourself), and are very cost effective as these things go. I use the lowest cost versions except the one I use with my PS Audio Dectet which is 2 meters long. I also replaced the wall socket with one from Pangea for $19.95. Thought it was probably not necessary but when I pulled the existing one turned out to be only about 75% of normal, low quality builders grade, LOL. There is a substantial difference in weight alone. Difference in sound, time will tell. Truth is, when the local Naval Air Station closed 10 years ago or so, and I was no longer directly under the NW to SE landing pattern (depending on wind), all my, sometimes, noise issues went with it.

@Brooklyn70 I have a pangea AC-14 and it works great - basically i was getting EMI into the RCAs as the unshielded power cable is like 3 inches away from your inputs. Once I replaced the power cord with the shielded pangea, the noise went about 95% away, and then I replaced my RCA interconnects with AQ GG and that got rid of the rest. I tried more expensive versions of all of those, but had no effect I could hear. Prior, I could move my power cord and hear the interference, now silence.

I live on a higher floor of condo tower in a major downtown so EMI is off the charts which likely accounts for me needing shielded everything

 

[GrussGott]

- Does toweling the Jot to bring it up to a higher temp quick at all help with warm up time?

It seems from what I have read the reason for the SUPER bass lite sound when cool is the DAC needing to hit thermal equilibrium before it works correctly for audio decoding.

I ain't no electronicist, but "thermal equilibrium" isn't so much heat as a condition of the electronic components at a given constant temperature (e.g., room temperature). There's also "johnson noise" in the resistor ladders which is the noise due thermal fluctuations within them. (Johnson was a colleague of good ole Nyquist).

Anyway, don't risk burning down your building is my point.

 

[MWSVette]

The Pangea cables are great I use a bunch of them...