[Derrick Swart]

The French copy no one, and no one copies the French.

You're talking about the retiring age?

 

[corndog71]

I'm gonna say something highly controversial:
I very much enjoyed the 2005 Hitchhiker, and I think it's an absolute shame that it wasn't quite successful enough to green-light the adaptation of the other books.

Agreed. Martin Freeman was perfect as Arthur Dent. While Mos Def’s portrayal of Ford was pretty good, for some reason I always pictured Ford as looking like Douglas Adams. Zaphod was also a weird diversion from the novel but they did the best that they could with a two-headed “human”. Marvin was also perfect except we didn’t get enough of him. I wish they would’ve chosen a “nerdier” woman to play Trillion. I like Zooey Deschanel but she felt out of place.

I think a new series needs to be made.

 

[Erratic Gravy]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeation

This is the reason drug-sniffing dogs work.

I saw another thread while searching for "heated enclosure" information that said it's impossible to make a 100% sealed cabinet. The air leaks out either through the driver or through the relatively porous MDF or some other way. It was also mentioned that Vilchur said putting a pinhole in a sealed speaker makes it work better.

One DIYer even tried to increase the pressure in the cabinet using a bicycle pump. Couldn't do it.

Actually a pin hole makes perfect sense - it will allow for variation in atmospheric pressure whilst still effectively 'choking' when the driver is working

 

[emorrison33]

Worth also trying Shark blades, you might prefer them. Blades are a personal thing, the angle of their edge differs from one product to another. Some people suit one or another.

In the long term, wet shaving is a big money saver, particularly when it comes to blades.

Also, assuming most on here want to support specialist companies in the USA, I recommend www.shavenation.com as a supplier.

Andrew

I've tried the Shark blades. They weren't sharp enough for me. I had purchased a multi pack of different blades awhile back, so I could try out different ones. Maybe I'll give them a shot again!

 

[SpazPlayzz]

I just purchased the Wiim Pro so now all my inputs will be filled on my Modi + Dap connected via USB C, CD player via digital coaxial and the Wiim Pro will be connected via optical. I'm happy with this setup and it didn't cost me a arm and a leg and can basically do whatever I want audio wise.

 

[golfbravobravo]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeation

This is the reason drug-sniffing dogs work.

I thought they needed the money........

 

[chrismoyer]

Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).

 

[Roy G. Biv]

Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).

I can’t speak to what Schiit has planned but Emotiva has what you want for a decent price.

 

[chrismoyer]

I can’t speak to what Schiit has planned but Emotiva has what you want for a decent price.

Ah, but it's missing the headphone stage I love so much in the Rag. Thanks for the input.

 

[ArmchairPhilosopher]

Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).

What about an external high pass filter? They're a dime a dozen and come in all sorts of flavors and variants.

 

[corndog71]

Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).

There is another way to do this if you’re using separate amplifiers for the main speakers and you can solder. It depends on the input impedance of the amp and the filter point. Here’s a calculator to help you figure it out. Just make sure you have your uF, Hz, and Kohms set.
Line level in line filter calculator
For example, an inline capacitor at 0.022uF will start dropping at 72.34Hz into a 100Kohm load.

I made a couple different pairs of values for different amps that work well. (Note: mine require a female RCA to Female RCA coupler to bridge the cable from the preamp. You could also solder female rcas to one end of the caps. The caps should be plugged into the amp input.)


Others have made filtered and non filtered outputs in one little box. Non-filtered to subs and filtered to mains.



Another example: Gjallerhorn has a 20K input impedance. A 0.1uF cap would start filtering at roughly 80Hz.

 

[macdonjh]

I saw another thread while searching for "heated enclosure" information that said it's impossible to make a 100% sealed cabinet. The air leaks out either through the driver or through the relatively porous MDF or some other way. It was also mentioned that Vilchur said putting a pinhole in a sealed speaker makes it work better.

One DIYer even tried to increase the pressure in the cabinet using a bicycle pump. Couldn't do it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeation

This is the reason drug-sniffing dogs work.

Fair point. But I am willing to live with the assumption the amount of air in a speaker enclosure able to diffuse through a cabinet wall while a driver is moving "backward" (toward the center of the cabinet) is negligible and can be ignored. Especially when you consider the process reverses itself during the second half of the wave when the driver moves "forward" (toward the center of the room), thus sucking air right back into the speaker from the room.

There are "vented" drivers, but the drivers in my speakers are pretty close to sealed: metal dome tweeter, and a woofer with a non-porous dust cap.

This is a case where we can talk about the difference between science and engineering. Science tells us diffusion and permeation make it impossible to create a truly sealed environment. Engineering tells us it is entirely possible for a period of time. In this case, the duration a speaker cabinet needs to be sealed is between 1/40,000th to 1/40th of a second. Any longer than that doesn't really matter because the internal volume will change as the driver reverses direction.

I wonder what would have happened if "bicycle pump guy" had operated his pump at 20 Hz...

 

[macdonjh]

Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).

I think it's been well established, this thread is not a dumb place to post anything.

Except maybe questions, impressions or general information about Schiit products.

 

[Ableza]

There are many ideas and theories in loudspeaker design that are moot to real world performance. They can be fun for DIY'ers or high-end boutiques to play around with, of course. I mean, a hobby is intended to pass the time, right? But a pro knows that when things don't really matter (or they might "matter" in that it can be measured, but it's not enough to hear) that they can be ignored. "Sealed" enclosures are one of those. Indeed, leaks from partially sealed systems will add dbSPL...

 

[ImagesbyMurray]

There is another way to do this if you’re using separate amplifiers for the main speakers and you can solder. It depends on the input impedance of the amp and the filter point. Here’s a calculator to help you figure it out. Just make sure you have your uF, Hz, and Kohms set.
Line level in line filter calculator
For example, an inline capacitor at 0.022uF will start dropping at 72.34Hz into a 100Kohm load.

I made a couple different pairs of values for different amps that work well. (Note: mine require a female RCA to Female RCA coupler to bridge the cable from the preamp. You could also solder female rcas to one end of the caps. The caps should be plugged into the amp input.)


Others have made filtered and non filtered outputs in one little box. Non-filtered to subs and filtered to mains.



Another example: Gjallerhorn has a 20K input impedance. A 0.1uF cap would start filtering at roughly 80Hz.

Nice! John Broskie must be channeling this thread:
https://tubecad.com/2023/04/blog0580.htm