Derrick Swart
Headphoneus Supremus
You're talking about the retiring age?The French copy no one, and no one copies the French.
You're talking about the retiring age?The French copy no one, and no one copies the French.
Agreed. Martin Freeman was perfect as Arthur Dent. While Mos Def’s portrayal of Ford was pretty good, for some reason I always pictured Ford as looking like Douglas Adams. Zaphod was also a weird diversion from the novel but they did the best that they could with a two-headed “human”. Marvin was also perfect except we didn’t get enough of him. I wish they would’ve chosen a “nerdier” woman to play Trillion. I like Zooey Deschanel but she felt out of place.I'm gonna say something highly controversial:
I very much enjoyed the 2005 Hitchhiker, and I think it's an absolute shame that it wasn't quite successful enough to green-light the adaptation of the other books.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeation
This is the reason drug-sniffing dogs work.
Actually a pin hole makes perfect sense - it will allow for variation in atmospheric pressure whilst still effectively 'choking' when the driver is workingI saw another thread while searching for "heated enclosure" information that said it's impossible to make a 100% sealed cabinet. The air leaks out either through the driver or through the relatively porous MDF or some other way. It was also mentioned that Vilchur said putting a pinhole in a sealed speaker makes it work better.
One DIYer even tried to increase the pressure in the cabinet using a bicycle pump. Couldn't do it.
I've tried the Shark blades. They weren't sharp enough for me. I had purchased a multi pack of different blades awhile back, so I could try out different ones. Maybe I'll give them a shot again!Worth also trying Shark blades, you might prefer them. Blades are a personal thing, the angle of their edge differs from one product to another. Some people suit one or another.
In the long term, wet shaving is a big money saver, particularly when it comes to blades.
Also, assuming most on here want to support specialist companies in the USA, I recommend www.shavenation.com as a supplier.
Andrew
I thought they needed the money........
I can’t speak to what Schiit has planned but Emotiva has what you want for a decent price.Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).
Ah, but it's missing the headphone stage I love so much in the Rag. Thanks for the input.I can’t speak to what Schiit has planned but Emotiva has what you want for a decent price.
What about an external high pass filter? They're a dime a dozen and come in all sorts of flavors and variants.Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).
There is another way to do this if you’re using separate amplifiers for the main speakers and you can solder. It depends on the input impedance of the amp and the filter point. Here’s a calculator to help you figure it out. Just make sure you have your uF, Hz, and Kohms set.Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).
I saw another thread while searching for "heated enclosure" information that said it's impossible to make a 100% sealed cabinet. The air leaks out either through the driver or through the relatively porous MDF or some other way. It was also mentioned that Vilchur said putting a pinhole in a sealed speaker makes it work better.
One DIYer even tried to increase the pressure in the cabinet using a bicycle pump. Couldn't do it.
Fair point. But I am willing to live with the assumption the amount of air in a speaker enclosure able to diffuse through a cabinet wall while a driver is moving "backward" (toward the center of the cabinet) is negligible and can be ignored. Especially when you consider the process reverses itself during the second half of the wave when the driver moves "forward" (toward the center of the room), thus sucking air right back into the speaker from the room.
I think it's been well established, this thread is not a dumb place to post anything.Maybe this is a dumb place to post this... but does anyone foresee a future Ragnarok that has integrated bass management and sub-out? I'd love to be able to remove the < 60hz load from my LS50s and leave them in the subs (Rythmik F12 running speaker level input).
Nice! John Broskie must be channeling this thread:There is another way to do this if you’re using separate amplifiers for the main speakers and you can solder. It depends on the input impedance of the amp and the filter point. Here’s a calculator to help you figure it out. Just make sure you have your uF, Hz, and Kohms set.
Line level in line filter calculator
For example, an inline capacitor at 0.022uF will start dropping at 72.34Hz into a 100Kohm load.
I made a couple different pairs of values for different amps that work well. (Note: mine require a female RCA to Female RCA coupler to bridge the cable from the preamp. You could also solder female rcas to one end of the caps. The caps should be plugged into the amp input.)
Others have made filtered and non filtered outputs in one little box. Non-filtered to subs and filtered to mains.
Another example: Gjallerhorn has a 20K input impedance. A 0.1uF cap would start filtering at roughly 80Hz.